2008 Rear Diff Cover. Please Confirm P/N
#1
2008 Rear Diff Cover. Please Confirm P/N
I called the local Ford and had them look up the 2008 rear diff cover.
They put the order in since they didnt have one in stock.
The part number they gave me is: E5TZ4033A
1.) Can someone confirm this is correct?
2.) Whats the best fluid and sealant to use for replacement?
The swap out seems pretty simple.
3.) Anything in particular that I should be aware of during the swap?
Also going to coat my axle while I'm under there.
4.) You all recommend chasis saver? What is best?
5.) Should I wire wheel the axle first ?
Some say a little rust helps it adhere.
They put the order in since they didnt have one in stock.
The part number they gave me is: E5TZ4033A
1.) Can someone confirm this is correct?
2.) Whats the best fluid and sealant to use for replacement?
The swap out seems pretty simple.
3.) Anything in particular that I should be aware of during the swap?
Also going to coat my axle while I'm under there.
4.) You all recommend chasis saver? What is best?
5.) Should I wire wheel the axle first ?
Some say a little rust helps it adhere.
#4
Bump.. ouch!
Bump... ouch! Ok ok!
Pic is the box my 08 cover came in, looks like they gave you the wrong number.
Oil is 75-140W full synthetic. Wal Mart brand is just as good as the $$ stuff, IMO.
Black silicone RTV, I used the Permatex brand since it had a pic of a differential on it. It's not necessary to over think this stuff.
I used a razor blade scraper to remove the old sealant then my thumb nail to get the last bits. Here is a good thread with pics, except I'd never get sandpaper grit or steel wool near an open diff. That's asking for trouble.
I don't really see the need to rust proof your axle, but in your shoes I'd soak a rag in the old diff oil and smear/dribble it on, then drive down a dusty road. I do not recommend stripping any existing coating. Why expose the metal you are trying to protect? Unless you are doing a frame off restoration, leave it be. My dos centavos.
Bump... ouch! Ok ok!
Pic is the box my 08 cover came in, looks like they gave you the wrong number.
Oil is 75-140W full synthetic. Wal Mart brand is just as good as the $$ stuff, IMO.
Black silicone RTV, I used the Permatex brand since it had a pic of a differential on it. It's not necessary to over think this stuff.
I used a razor blade scraper to remove the old sealant then my thumb nail to get the last bits. Here is a good thread with pics, except I'd never get sandpaper grit or steel wool near an open diff. That's asking for trouble.
I don't really see the need to rust proof your axle, but in your shoes I'd soak a rag in the old diff oil and smear/dribble it on, then drive down a dusty road. I do not recommend stripping any existing coating. Why expose the metal you are trying to protect? Unless you are doing a frame off restoration, leave it be. My dos centavos.
#5
The box part # I received was also #8C3Z-4033-A. The # on the cover was 8C34-4033-AA.
I used PermaTex Ultra Black Max oil resistance RTV to seal the cover. I used Mobil 1 75-140 to refill and did not need any friction modifier.
Longer bolts are needed due to the 08 cover thickness. Size is 5/16-18 x 1.25 long. I think torque was 24 ft-lbs.
I powder coated before installation and looks great.
I used PermaTex Ultra Black Max oil resistance RTV to seal the cover. I used Mobil 1 75-140 to refill and did not need any friction modifier.
Longer bolts are needed due to the 08 cover thickness. Size is 5/16-18 x 1.25 long. I think torque was 24 ft-lbs.
I powder coated before installation and looks great.
#6
Here is Guzzles how to thread. Worked good for me when installing the new cover.
Welcome to guzzle's Rear Differential Maintenance Web Page
One thing I would reccomend is getting a long stud or two for alignment when the cover is going back on with the RTV.
Here is a link to the cover you are looking for as well. May cost less than your local dealership.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=7101
Welcome to guzzle's Rear Differential Maintenance Web Page
One thing I would reccomend is getting a long stud or two for alignment when the cover is going back on with the RTV.
Here is a link to the cover you are looking for as well. May cost less than your local dealership.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=7101
#7
Bump.. ouch!
Bump... ouch! Ok ok!
Pic is the box my 08 cover came in, looks like they gave you the wrong number.
Oil is 75-140W full synthetic. Wal Mart brand is just as good as the $$ stuff, IMO.
Black silicone RTV, I used the Permatex brand since it had a pic of a differential on it. It's not necessary to over think this stuff.
I used a razor blade scraper to remove the old sealant then my thumb nail to get the last bits. Here is a good thread with pics, except I'd never get sandpaper grit or steel wool near an open diff. That's asking for trouble.
I don't really see the need to rust proof your axle, but in your shoes I'd soak a rag in the old diff oil and smear/dribble it on, then drive down a dusty road. I do not recommend stripping any existing coating. Why expose the metal you are trying to protect? Unless you are doing a frame off restoration, leave it be. My dos centavos.
Bump... ouch! Ok ok!
Pic is the box my 08 cover came in, looks like they gave you the wrong number.
Oil is 75-140W full synthetic. Wal Mart brand is just as good as the $$ stuff, IMO.
Black silicone RTV, I used the Permatex brand since it had a pic of a differential on it. It's not necessary to over think this stuff.
I used a razor blade scraper to remove the old sealant then my thumb nail to get the last bits. Here is a good thread with pics, except I'd never get sandpaper grit or steel wool near an open diff. That's asking for trouble.
I don't really see the need to rust proof your axle, but in your shoes I'd soak a rag in the old diff oil and smear/dribble it on, then drive down a dusty road. I do not recommend stripping any existing coating. Why expose the metal you are trying to protect? Unless you are doing a frame off restoration, leave it be. My dos centavos.
Haha sorry!
Only meant to bump once. Computer wasn't showing my post so I did it again.
Thanks for the info everyone. Called up the Ford and they went ahead and got the right one on the way per the part numbers you guys provided.
I Read through both threads.
Looks like all I have remaining to buy is:
.Friction modifier
.4 quarts of 75-140w Full Synthetic
.Permatex black silicone RTV
.Solvent
.Sand Paper (I'll be careful!)
As for the axle, I suppose it doesn't need to be super rust proof. But sometimes there is something to be said about cleaned and painted parts.
No leaks, No Grease, & Fresh paint is just enjoyable.
I suppose I have a slight case of OCD that makes me want things a bit cleaner than they need to be too.
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#8
Also I used laquer thinner and a decent gasket scraper. They seemed to work very well.
#9
FYI, got my cover.
Still need to buy the bolts and goodies.
I'm thinking about taping off the fins then having it powder coated.
Hopefully the powder coater guy wont be opposed to peeling the tape before he bakes it.
The goal is to keep the cooling fins functional. And of course it would look BA.
Still need to buy the bolts and goodies.
I'm thinking about taping off the fins then having it powder coated.
Hopefully the powder coater guy wont be opposed to peeling the tape before he bakes it.
The goal is to keep the cooling fins functional. And of course it would look BA.
#10
FYI, got my cover.
Still need to buy the bolts and goodies.
I'm thinking about taping off the fins then having it powder coated.
Hopefully the powder coater guy wont be opposed to peeling the tape before he bakes it.
The goal is to keep the cooling fins functional. And of course it would look BA.
Still need to buy the bolts and goodies.
I'm thinking about taping off the fins then having it powder coated.
Hopefully the powder coater guy wont be opposed to peeling the tape before he bakes it.
The goal is to keep the cooling fins functional. And of course it would look BA.
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aplustechnician
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
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11-15-2005 04:49 AM