The last bolt, of course, befor I get the old out and the new bellowed pipes in.

Bottom bolt/top on manifold. The 10mm on top is good, the 13mm on bottom is stripped.

Ideas?

Anyone have a favorite "turbo socket" or other method? I don't have a cut off wheel..

 

Have a Dremel tool?

 

It's loaned out downstate... Is there a cut off wheel for it?

 

So the head is rounded and won't take a wrench or socket? can you heat it up and try vise grips? I can't remember how much room you have. Could a nut be welded on top of the rounded one?

 

Are you talking about the bolt that hold the bottom end of the pipe. If so just cut it.
Do them that way all the time. Did one today head rounded just sawalled it.

 

OK now I know which one you mean, if you don't have a sawzall like snakedoc suggested you can always try tightening the 10mm side with a cheater and snap it off unless of course the bolt just spins.


on second thought I wonder if that could break the manifold? better stick with the sawzall

 

thanks for the ideas guys I do have a sawzall, will give that a shot I guess just so little room to work in there.

 

No room for a sawzall, but I borrowed a grinder and finely got it off...

Now with everything removed, the task of putting it all back together.

HPOP re-sealed, fuel bowl re-sealed, new oil lines, delete pedestal and new up pipes..

Starting at back of course, guessing the uppies are gonna cause me to say some bad words.

Reading the tutorial on the uppies, and tricks I should consider?

 

Yes, assemble the up pipes to the manifolds VERY loosely and make no attempt to tighten them till your baby's butt is lined up and you have the v-band clamp on, or you will be using a lot more bad words than you planned on.


A top side creeper almost makes the job enjoyable.

 

I concur with leaving the up pipes to manifold loose when doing bellowed up pipes. But in my case bad words still end up coming out. I've never used a topside creeper but I'll bet that would be nice.

 

Thanks boys! Not to say it was a breeze, but it went very well... For me anyway (I can turn a two hour job into an all day affair).

Pipes in tight at the baby butt, still loose at the manifold. Delete pedestal and turbo re installed. Inlet lined up with turbo and bungee corded in place. Now....

I fought with the V band clamp for a holy hour and still didn't get it on. It got ugly.

Any secrets or tricks?

 

I'm glad you got it done and everything went well ! I'm with you as far as taking a 2hr job and turning it into a all day job. In the last 5 yrs I just have had to come to terms with the fact that I just can't do what I use to and that I am just old and slow. Bottom line it is better to do it right the first than to do it fast and have to redo it. And for you guys that can do it fast and correct I'm glad someone can do it!

I too have had the v clamp kick my butt. My secret was I walked away readjust my attitude and drank a beer or was it 2 beers? Then I tried again and for some reason I was able to install the v clamp in 5 minutes. I think once it has you pissed off the best thing to do is walk away and get a attitude adjustment or should I say that is what works for me at least.
I'll be pulling my turbo and up pipes here in the next few weeks but I have been saying that for months now. LOL I have a set of E99 IH bellowed up pipes and a billet 9 blade I'm going to install. It shouldn't be so bad this time since I have already done it a couple of times and none of the bolts are siezed.

 

This is very true. The most expensive kind of work is always rework.

 

I had new ones on hand which helped, in addition to the top side creeper. Just takes a lot of patience and feeling around since you can't really see much once your hands are in there.

 

Wow. I finally got it. After over an hour of fighting and getting no where, another 20 minutes of getting close, I walked away and came back and just put it on like no ones business. How do it do like that???

I've got it 95% back together, had to stop for other stuff.
It's down to tightening down the inter-cooler tubes, the air intake, and the alternator back in.

Hope it all works when it comes time for Key on!

New up pipes, new pedestal, new turbo exhaust free flow, fuel bowl rebuilt, HPOP re-sealed, new HPOP lines, IPR re-sealed, new ICP, new EBP sensor and line, fuel line sleeves into the engine (lines were in good shape).

Other than adding oil to the HPOP reservoir and cycling the fuel pump several times, anything else to do before trying to fire it up?

Also, not looking forward to re-installing the passengers side inner fender well. Any tricks for getting that bugger back in?? It came out like a bear!