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Been 20 odd years back, at grandparents house. The newspaper liner in one of the drawers had a dealership sales ad pricing for 1970 F100's. It was around $2500 back then.
Met up with a friend the other day. He was driving a new King Ranch, diesel, dually, crewcab 4x4. $70K truck!!! Yikes. It was his company truck, they got a smoking deal on it for only $55K, as the dealership got it and couldn't move it.
Well guys did a couple things today. Spent 2 hours trying to find the correct distributor cap, did a tune up, got the spark plug wires in the wrong order twice, and then took her around the block a couple of times. Much more responsive on the throttle. Need to cut the front shocks out, but that will be another day.
Hey guys can you help me real quick. Would the (from the factory) door key be the same as the ignition key, or were they seperate keys from the factory?
I should've specified my intentions. I have the original ignition lock code, so I am going to get a key cut because the ignition cylinder had been changed and I had not been given a key to the doorsm
I should've specified my intentions. I have the original ignition lock code, so I am going to get a key cut because the ignition cylinder had been changed and I had not been given a key to the doorsm
FA will be the code prefix for a door or ignition key.
Most dealers in todays world will no longer have the hand held Curtiss key cutter and the necessary code book to cut a single sided key, so you'd be better off going to a key shop.
Plus, I'd be surprised if dealership partsguys in today's world would know how to use a hand held key cutter.
5 cut key: The ignition/door key fits into the left side of the cutter, the glove box (round head) key fits into the right side of the cutter. I know how, but I'm a long way from 'cowtown.'
Well little podunk dealership in the town where I go to college has the key code book and the cutter. Once I get her tagged and down here with me he said no problem to get a key.
So a Radius Arm bushing is shot. So if I wanted to replace both the front and rear bushing, how would I go about this? (I'm going to do it on both sides of course
Some guys grind/cut/drill out the rivets on the radius arm brackets mounted on the frame to aid in making it lest work.
Ford started bolting the radius arm brackets onto the frame in later yrs.
Not sure of the yr. when Ford got a littler smarter with the bolting in of them.
But most of the time the inner axel pivot end bushing are bad also when the radius arm end bushing have gone bad.
Many guys have posted how they did it so you may want do a search and read the threads on how to do it..
Welp had a really busy weekend. Got new radius arm bushings and the I beam pivots done, new shocks on, new coil, cleaned out the interior, rebuilt the ragjoint, got a tach intalled and got my glasspack exhaust on correctly (first time it wasnt on too well). So my week is probably going to be more restful than my weekend
Welp had a really busy weekend. Got new radius arm bushings and the I beam pivots done, new shocks on, new coil, cleaned out the interior, rebuilt the ragjoint, got a tach intalled and got my glasspack exhaust on correctly (first time it wasnt on too well). So my week is probably going to be more restful than my weekend
Cool! I bet it seems like somebody snuck a newer truck under your steering wheel.
Well the steering wheel had about 4-5 inches of lateral play in it, so yes it seems much more safe now lol. Getting the proper tag for it this week so I can drive down to college with it (I've been driving it around on the weekends while working on it, not too keen on driving it with car tags 50 miles)
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.