I know that just because something is on the net doesn't make it true, so I figured Id ask you guys. I was researching ways to remove shallow dents on older cars and trucks, like ours without damaging the paint. I ran across a method using dry ice . It said to place the dry ice in the center of the dent claiming shrinking in this way will cause the dent to pop back. Ive heard of using a torch starting at the outside of a dent circling slowly towards the center to accomplish this, but never dry ice. Has any body ever heard of this one way or the other? I have had some success using the hot glue pad stud method, but Im always looking for other ways of paintless repair.

 

Would like to know if this works as well. Wonder if those "Dent Dr." (Paintless dent removal) places use it?

 

I've never tried it, but have been told it works on shallow dents. It is used mostly on newer cars I think, so I don't know how well it would work on our trucks with much thicker and better steel.

 

No......


or

maybe but no......



this method almost worked

 

Thanks for the input guys, Im always trying to learn, but it's not true unless you guys say it is.

 

I've heard it works if you park the car in the sun to get it hot first. I don't think it would work on the thicker metal on our trucks.

 

I've used the dry ice to remove hail dents - The large pieces of dry ice will cover multiple dents - I've also used a wet rag soaked in ice water shllow dents - After The dents is fixed I usually go thru the heat/cool cycle to make sure the metal is happy
Both ways work better the longer you let it set in the sun or use heat lamps
I've used a torch to heat the metal - It's not very friendly to paint

The metal in new cars is harder and thinner than current day cars - It takes more cycles to complete

My Dad showed me how to do it when I was working on my 40 Pontiac = I've also used it on mid 50's Fords and the other ones