Air leak, bad fuel pump, or HPOP?
#1
Air leak, bad fuel pump, or HPOP?
My truck left me on the side of the road. Here is the run down.
8000 miles on Mobile One diesel oil and fuel filters. FICM fuel tune only.
Coming home my truck started loosing fuel. I coasted to side of road and after turning over a few times, I called for tow. After 20 mins, I turned it over and it started. Back on the road, it did it one more time in a 15 mile distance home. Next day, I changed fuel filters. After starting, it died. So I opened drain until pump got fuel there, then took fuel cap off until fuel flowed out. Truck started and ran great for about 15 miles. It took 5 times of stopping and waiting and restarting to get back home (well one block away) Each time took longer to build psi and harder to start. Towed one block home.
Fuel pump is working, but does sound like a little skip now and then. Had 1/2 tank and I added anothere 5 gals incase it is in the tank air leak. Never smoked white or black. Still no start. No codes. I already have a fuel pump coming from Rock Auto. Any ideas as to what and how to check anything else?
edit: filters were dirty and pulled drain plug all the way out to replace with better and it had trash on the tip.
8000 miles on Mobile One diesel oil and fuel filters. FICM fuel tune only.
Coming home my truck started loosing fuel. I coasted to side of road and after turning over a few times, I called for tow. After 20 mins, I turned it over and it started. Back on the road, it did it one more time in a 15 mile distance home. Next day, I changed fuel filters. After starting, it died. So I opened drain until pump got fuel there, then took fuel cap off until fuel flowed out. Truck started and ran great for about 15 miles. It took 5 times of stopping and waiting and restarting to get back home (well one block away) Each time took longer to build psi and harder to start. Towed one block home.
Fuel pump is working, but does sound like a little skip now and then. Had 1/2 tank and I added anothere 5 gals incase it is in the tank air leak. Never smoked white or black. Still no start. No codes. I already have a fuel pump coming from Rock Auto. Any ideas as to what and how to check anything else?
edit: filters were dirty and pulled drain plug all the way out to replace with better and it had trash on the tip.
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#8
So, how can I tell if it is a bad HPOP or just a leak?
I have 8k miles on oil, but I was thinking I would be good to 10k with Mobile1.
Could this be part of the problem?
#9
Late 04 has stand pipes and dummy plugs that come with the wavey HP oil rails. Early does not. HP oil leak could be pump or DP and DPs in late 04.
#10
The only way I know to get it right is an air test. The '03-'04 High pressure oil pumps have had issues. I was thinking of the ICP location (where you would attach the air hose for the test) and the early oil rails are different also (hose instead of standpipes). While your oil change interval is longer than I'm comfortable with, I don't think it's your no start problem. One last check before going deeper, can you read/post ICP volts while cranking?
After that, time to roll up your sleeves (unless you decide to get a shop to check it out).
I'd pull the oil cap and filter first. Hold down the little black button in the bottom of the housing while someone cranks the truck over. The housing should fill quickly (Be sure your helper knows you don't want it to start/run). If it doesn't fill quickly there is an issue with the low pressure oil supply- pump or regulator.
It may be worth the effort to pull the IPR and check the screen. While it's out you can ohm out the electrical side. You should see about 6ohms maybe higher. Mostly looking for it to be open or shorted. Unfortunately the IPR and ICP are in a tight spot behind and below the turbo.
The PCM needs to see at least 500psi fron the ICP sensor before it will command injectors to fire. Yours is much lower. Attempting to crank with it disconnected will cause PCM to default to an acceptable value and start if the ICP is bad and there actually is suffencient oil pressure.
The IPR should be in the 16-24% range during idle (may run up some during cranking), it's a normally open valve and the number represents how far closed the PCM is driving it to raise pressure. Operating range is 0-85% so PCM is closing yours all the way and still not seeing sufficient pressure to squirt the injectors.
Possibilities are
Bad ICP. It's not reading actual pressure correctly. Disconnect it to force default reading and try to start to verify. If it cranks ICP is likely bad. It could also be wiring harness issues at ICP. Check for deterioration, shorting and being oil soaked- an indication ICP sensor is failed leaking.
IPR. Trash inside the valve is holding it open. Sometimes a piece of the screen will have broken out and be stuck inside it, or it's binding and can't close (we can only see what it's being told to do and have no indication of it's actual position). Less common is failure of the electrical side.
A leak in the high pressure oil system. Applying shop air to the ICP opening and listening/inspecting for air to escape.
A failed High Pressure Oil Pump. Air test mentioned above can verify. There is a check ball in the pump housing that often gets "spit out" when the pump fails.
After that, time to roll up your sleeves (unless you decide to get a shop to check it out).
I'd pull the oil cap and filter first. Hold down the little black button in the bottom of the housing while someone cranks the truck over. The housing should fill quickly (Be sure your helper knows you don't want it to start/run). If it doesn't fill quickly there is an issue with the low pressure oil supply- pump or regulator.
It may be worth the effort to pull the IPR and check the screen. While it's out you can ohm out the electrical side. You should see about 6ohms maybe higher. Mostly looking for it to be open or shorted. Unfortunately the IPR and ICP are in a tight spot behind and below the turbo.
The PCM needs to see at least 500psi fron the ICP sensor before it will command injectors to fire. Yours is much lower. Attempting to crank with it disconnected will cause PCM to default to an acceptable value and start if the ICP is bad and there actually is suffencient oil pressure.
The IPR should be in the 16-24% range during idle (may run up some during cranking), it's a normally open valve and the number represents how far closed the PCM is driving it to raise pressure. Operating range is 0-85% so PCM is closing yours all the way and still not seeing sufficient pressure to squirt the injectors.
Possibilities are
Bad ICP. It's not reading actual pressure correctly. Disconnect it to force default reading and try to start to verify. If it cranks ICP is likely bad. It could also be wiring harness issues at ICP. Check for deterioration, shorting and being oil soaked- an indication ICP sensor is failed leaking.
IPR. Trash inside the valve is holding it open. Sometimes a piece of the screen will have broken out and be stuck inside it, or it's binding and can't close (we can only see what it's being told to do and have no indication of it's actual position). Less common is failure of the electrical side.
A leak in the high pressure oil system. Applying shop air to the ICP opening and listening/inspecting for air to escape.
A failed High Pressure Oil Pump. Air test mentioned above can verify. There is a check ball in the pump housing that often gets "spit out" when the pump fails.
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#13
I can't enter all that text from the phone. If I find time later today I'll find the thread and post a link.
#14
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14612341