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No power to starter solenoid.

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  #1  
Old 10-18-2014, 09:55 AM
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No power to starter solenoid.

I have a 1988 f350, 460 engine, 4x4, manual trans.

I bought this truck a year ago and have been fighting this thing daily to keep it running, fuel pumps, 6 port selector valve, more fuel pumps....

The problem I'm having now is no power to the *STARTER* solenoid.

I took off the clutch safety switch, jumped the first two wires (red with blue stripe) but still no power to the *starter solenoid*. I do have 12 volts on first post (red with blue stripe) when I turn the key on.

I can jump the *starter solenoid* from the battery to the small post and get the truck running.

From this information, can I rule out the the ignition switch on the column?

Not sure where to go from here.

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

Last edited by sloburban; 10-18-2014 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Clarifying the starter solenoid
  #2  
Old 10-18-2014, 02:46 PM
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clutch switch should have 4 wires to it. 2 for starter interrupter, and 2 for cruise control. you have to connect the proper wires to bypass the starter side.
 
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Old 10-18-2014, 06:44 PM
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I have 6 wires.

I'm trying to figure out where I'm losing power between the "clutch safety switch" and the solenoid.

Does the power, from the safety switch, go directly to the starter solenoid or does it go thru a fuse or another relay where I might be losing a connection?
 
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:42 PM
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By the way, I do not have cruise control.
This is a bare bones, 12' stake body dump.
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:28 AM
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Even though you have a manual trans you still have a Neutral Safety Switch that is jumpered.
An automatic would have the clutch switch jumpered as the same harness is used in both.
Check under the truck and see.

You confirmed power in one of the red/blue wires while the key is in the start position?
Seems the ignition switch is functioning normally.
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:38 AM
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I think the neutral switch bypass Jim is referring to is under the master cylinder. Dig around there and see if you can find the red/blue wire.
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:51 AM
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Thank you for that bashby.
(I'll have to rep you when I'm not on my phone)
I knew the wires to the AT were not connected and instead a jumper in their place.
Was not sure where that connnection was.
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:26 AM
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The wires to the starter solenoid (relay) take this path.




/
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:30 AM
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I'm looking all around and the only thing I can see that resembles a connection with a jumper is this
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:40 AM
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The Path is:
Ignition Switch.
C190 At clutch lockout switch.
C100 Through dash at LH (drivers) side.
C177 Engine Compartment LH side.
C275 LH Fender Apron.
C370 Transmission Crossmember.
C177 Engine Compartment LH side.
Starter relay.
 
  #11  
Old 10-19-2014, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sloburban
I'm looking all around and the only thing I can see that resembles a connection with a jumper is this
It looks like a red wire with a blue stripe is cut in that photo.
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:46 AM
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The two wires coming out of that connection plug into the side of the transmission, driver side, right under the shifter.

Well I assume that's where it plugs into. I found it bundled up with zip ties while I was looking for this neutral thingy. The connector fit into the side of the trans so I just plugged it in. By the looks of that wire I'm sure I'll gain 50 horse power....If I ever get it running again!



 
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
It looks like a red wire with a blue stripe is cut in that photo.
Yeah I saw that too. I'll adress that ASAP!

Thanks for all the help so far guys!
 
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Old 10-19-2014, 10:27 AM
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Repaired the broken jumper wire and she starts right up!

Thanks for the help guys!
 
  #15  
Old 10-19-2014, 11:02 AM
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Let me know if you guys think, should I start a new thread for my next question.

Truck seems to run ok when it's cold, warmed up I can't get it to run right.

Plugs, wires, rotor and cap were changed a few hundred miles ago.

It idles perfect but under load it misses and lacks power. I did change the TFI on the side of the distributor with no change in performance. According to the many searches I did on the TFI I'm getting conflicting information on a bad TFI. Some say it either works or it doesn't, some say it makes the vehicle run rough, some say it runs rough after it gets hot.

On the other hand according to searches this sounds like a PIP sensor inside the distributor or a weak coil. Non of which I know how to diagnose.

If I retard it a bit it runs much better, no misses but the valves sound terrible. If I advance the timing to get rid of the valves that's where it starts to miss real bad. No matter where the timing is set the truck idles perfect.

I started changing the timing by ear, drive a little bit, jump out and adjust the timing and see what happens. I can't seem to find the sweet spot in the timing.
 

Last edited by sloburban; 10-19-2014 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Spelling


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