No power to starter solenoid.
#1
No power to starter solenoid.
I have a 1988 f350, 460 engine, 4x4, manual trans.
I bought this truck a year ago and have been fighting this thing daily to keep it running, fuel pumps, 6 port selector valve, more fuel pumps....
The problem I'm having now is no power to the *STARTER* solenoid.
I took off the clutch safety switch, jumped the first two wires (red with blue stripe) but still no power to the *starter solenoid*. I do have 12 volts on first post (red with blue stripe) when I turn the key on.
I can jump the *starter solenoid* from the battery to the small post and get the truck running.
From this information, can I rule out the the ignition switch on the column?
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks for any help in advance.
I bought this truck a year ago and have been fighting this thing daily to keep it running, fuel pumps, 6 port selector valve, more fuel pumps....
The problem I'm having now is no power to the *STARTER* solenoid.
I took off the clutch safety switch, jumped the first two wires (red with blue stripe) but still no power to the *starter solenoid*. I do have 12 volts on first post (red with blue stripe) when I turn the key on.
I can jump the *starter solenoid* from the battery to the small post and get the truck running.
From this information, can I rule out the the ignition switch on the column?
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Last edited by sloburban; 10-18-2014 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Clarifying the starter solenoid
#2
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#3
#5
Even though you have a manual trans you still have a Neutral Safety Switch that is jumpered.
An automatic would have the clutch switch jumpered as the same harness is used in both.
Check under the truck and see.
You confirmed power in one of the red/blue wires while the key is in the start position?
Seems the ignition switch is functioning normally.
An automatic would have the clutch switch jumpered as the same harness is used in both.
Check under the truck and see.
You confirmed power in one of the red/blue wires while the key is in the start position?
Seems the ignition switch is functioning normally.
#7
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The two wires coming out of that connection plug into the side of the transmission, driver side, right under the shifter.
Well I assume that's where it plugs into. I found it bundled up with zip ties while I was looking for this neutral thingy. The connector fit into the side of the trans so I just plugged it in. By the looks of that wire I'm sure I'll gain 50 horse power....If I ever get it running again!
Well I assume that's where it plugs into. I found it bundled up with zip ties while I was looking for this neutral thingy. The connector fit into the side of the trans so I just plugged it in. By the looks of that wire I'm sure I'll gain 50 horse power....If I ever get it running again!
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Let me know if you guys think, should I start a new thread for my next question.
Truck seems to run ok when it's cold, warmed up I can't get it to run right.
Plugs, wires, rotor and cap were changed a few hundred miles ago.
It idles perfect but under load it misses and lacks power. I did change the TFI on the side of the distributor with no change in performance. According to the many searches I did on the TFI I'm getting conflicting information on a bad TFI. Some say it either works or it doesn't, some say it makes the vehicle run rough, some say it runs rough after it gets hot.
On the other hand according to searches this sounds like a PIP sensor inside the distributor or a weak coil. Non of which I know how to diagnose.
If I retard it a bit it runs much better, no misses but the valves sound terrible. If I advance the timing to get rid of the valves that's where it starts to miss real bad. No matter where the timing is set the truck idles perfect.
I started changing the timing by ear, drive a little bit, jump out and adjust the timing and see what happens. I can't seem to find the sweet spot in the timing.
Truck seems to run ok when it's cold, warmed up I can't get it to run right.
Plugs, wires, rotor and cap were changed a few hundred miles ago.
It idles perfect but under load it misses and lacks power. I did change the TFI on the side of the distributor with no change in performance. According to the many searches I did on the TFI I'm getting conflicting information on a bad TFI. Some say it either works or it doesn't, some say it makes the vehicle run rough, some say it runs rough after it gets hot.
On the other hand according to searches this sounds like a PIP sensor inside the distributor or a weak coil. Non of which I know how to diagnose.
If I retard it a bit it runs much better, no misses but the valves sound terrible. If I advance the timing to get rid of the valves that's where it starts to miss real bad. No matter where the timing is set the truck idles perfect.
I started changing the timing by ear, drive a little bit, jump out and adjust the timing and see what happens. I can't seem to find the sweet spot in the timing.
Last edited by sloburban; 10-19-2014 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Spelling