Everything cleaned up and going together.

Lots of room! Could fit a V10 in there!



The room for attaching the pick up tube.



Stick bolts in and tighten pickup tube.



Tighten up rear support nut.



Clean surfaces once again, rtv, bolt up pan.

 

My X doesn't even look this good.

 

Thanks again for all the step by step pics Snowseeker, I might go this route when I replace my pan. I am more than capable of pulling the engine, but my fear is that I may run across some rusty crusty stuff etc. and turn the job into a real headache if I break something by disturbing it. Getting the trans out I may be less likely to have those issues............ IDK.

Do you use the Ford specific sealant ? But like I mentioned I will prob plan to use the one pc Moroso gasket & maybe just a lil sealer in the corners.

Is there any gasket on the rear block cover you resealed, or just RTV like the pan ?

You put anything on the new rear main seal ?

 

I have had the best luck with an rvt or like sealant. I use permatex gray for most pans and covers. However I found out if you order a new gasket F4TZ-6701-A they send a whole tube of the international stuff. I would order the seal and use their rtv for the pan, rear cover, and main seal. I use the permatex gray for the pan and rear cover.

The new rear seal says do not remove seal from sleeve and do not apply anything to seal.

 

Your POR-15 dealer must love you. They might even have a spotter out front to watch for your vehicle... so they know when to light the celebratory cigars.

 

Chassis saver, basically the same thing as por-15 though.

There is just shy of 2 gallons in this truck. Two coatings on everything from front to back. $240 in chassis saver in total.

A guy don't like rust!


Put the rear main seal in yesterday and the transmission is back in. I used the flywheel spacer to drive the new seal and sleeve on the crankshaft. Used three bolts in the spacer and gave each one a half turn at the time to drive on the new sleeve evenly.

Transmission install only took about 45 minutes, 2wd trucks are easy!

Today I add fluids and send her on the way again. Hopefully she keeps her fluids on the inside now!

 

Well my friend... I'm in the same boat you were. I finally got her fired up yesterday, took a little bit. Once fired ran a little rough then smoothed out and purred like a kitten... Then she began pouring oil right out of that dang dipstick flange. I over tightened it And it's pouring out. Not to sure what to do at this point.

A. Spend my last 300 bucks on a stricken diesel billet flange.

B. Pull the motor again and do it right.

C. smother it in RTV... Not what I really want to do.

 

Just change the oring and put a new nut on. Not hard. Dieselorings has a kit.

 

The o-ring and nut is new, It's all new. The flange on the backside of the pan is tacoed, I over tightened it.

 

Looks like I need to send you some variety of beer from the local breweries as payment for one beautiful piece...

 

I hope it doesn't start leaking on this truck now! While I had the pan off I gave the nut a little bit more turn to tighten up the flange "good". All looked good and I don't see any oil leak yet.


Personally if I were in your shoes I would wire up the flange so it doesn't drop into the pan, take the nut off, brake clean the ares real good, rvt the very inside edge of the flange and put the nut back on pushing the rvt into the flange and let sit for a day.

 

Final pic time!

New international seal and crank sleeve installed. They always say install dry but I always use some loctite yellow gear locker on the sleeve so it seals good against the crank surface. I used the flywheel spacer and 3 bolts to drive on the sleeve and seal.



Slimy trans back in. I was dead tired and in a rush so no cleaning of the trans and not that great of a pic. I was ready to head inside and just held the camera under the truck and nilly willied a pic.



Truck already went on a couple trips and so far so good!

 

Also note that the rvt around the seal is the oem international rvt. The rvt around the rear cover and oil pan are permatex gray rvt.

I could not tell any difference between the two rvt's in color, texture, consistency, anything. They both seam identical. Even when set up they both have the same "squishyness" and feel.

 

16.5mpg like a broken record. I don't get it.

Does a FRx cause more fuel consumption somehow?

Would low fuel pressure cause excess fuel consumption?

I am just dumbfounded.

 

I'm about to do a little road trip and was just thinking the same thing earlier today with the FRx and with my boost numbers only running 12psi I'm thinking something is not right and thought about getting my first set of mpg's. I will get mpg numbers to compare just for fun. Sorry I don't know the answer.