So the great deal I got on a dropped axle and spindles (Mor-Dropped Axle), wasn't such a great deal after all. The axle had a small bend which cost $75 to repair at a hydraulic shop, I went with disc brake conversion kit$600, new Kingpin and bushings $100 (includes pressing of bushing by shop). The locking pin hole on the axle is a bit larger than normal but holds locking pin in at 25lbs of torque. New tie rod ends and had to replace the original tie rod on the axle, about $75. The disc brake instructions warned that you might not be able to use the original wheels but it was meant because of the caliper. The original 40s wheels dont provide the space for the caliper. That was a bummer because I wanted the original wheels. The ford 60s and on wheels do provide the caliper clearance but now my passenger spindle rubs against the wheel. The spindle would have been heated in order to be dropped but now Im concerned with heating it again to pull it horizontally inward about 1 inch to provide the clearance. Should I be concerned if it will become to brittle after reheating for a second time? In measurements, do I have to be concerned as far as the alignment?

 

Find wheels you like that fit. If you want steel wheels there are plenty of companies that will custom make you exactly what you need. Bending the steering arm (not the spindle) inwards 1" towards the center of the truck will change the akerman geometry of the steering system drastically, screwing up the steering and handling as well as tire wear. DON'T DO IT! I hope whoever did it the first time knew what they were doing, but I don't hold a lot of hope considering your experience so far. Usually tie rod end spacers are used to give tie rod clearance with a deep dropped axle.
Moral of the story: a bargain is not always a bargain. (John Moore aka Mor-drop died in 1971, the quality after that has been sometimes sketchy depending on who was doing it.)

 

Thats a good point about the akerman. I will have to measure it before any adjustment.

I will also try larger wheels, 16 inch. The ones in the picture are 15 inch wheels, so maybe that additional inch will clear it.

 

I don't see how the passenger side could be hitting but not the driver's side? Are you sure the wheels are identical offset?

 

Ross, I agree, but he says the arms were heated and bent, he bought the axle with a bend in it, so who knows what he's got? I'd recommend getting another set of OEM spindles (inexpensive) and replace these using a set of tie rod drops or at least carefully compare them in all planes. IMHO Steering is not a place you want to cut corners, use sketchy parts.

 

Here is a pic of the wheels. I have few laying around and almost certain they are the same but now you are making me think. Of course now its making me nervous as AXracer indicated, maybe it was a crappy dropping job and thats why it was such a good deal and po got rid of it.

 

New spindles aren't likely to help, because on a dropped axle, the steering arms have to be bent down to clear the springs. They need to be bent identically. Either they aren't identically bent or the wheels have different offsets. Is it possible the disc brake kit is missing a spacer on that side?

The wheels should be stamped with ID numbers, or you can measure the offsets. I'm sure if this is one of Sid's axles he would be able to make things right, but That would likely entail shipping everything back to him.

 

Here are some more pics of the steering arms before installing disc brakes. Not sure they will help but for the hell of it I will swap the wheels. I will definitely take a look at the akerman dimensions tonight to ensure that Im not wasting my time if the driver side is also not correct.



Driver side before rotor




Passenger side

 

The disc conversion kit did not come with any spacers but I will contact CPP to see if they do have some type of spacers. I will also measure the offsets to be sure. This is not a Sid's axle, I was told it was a Mor but Im sure Sid would have done it right.

 

I do have a pair of stock spindles, so might have to go this route. That or just dump the whole axle, yikes!

 

Sid does not use bent steering arm spindles. Uses OEM spindles and tie rod ends with 2" dropping blocks:

or dropped tie rod ends (requires specially modified tie rod) :

 

actually I prefer the tie rod end drops Mid Fifty sells:

 

I don't see how those could work? They are only tapered on one side, what keeps them from wobbling around in the steering arm? I'm assuming they are upside down in their picture.

The steering arms can be unbolted from the spindles, if someone who has converted to IFS has a set laying around, replacing them is the easiest solution.

 

Yes they are upside down the tie rod end goes in the tapered end with the nut inside the drop, the flat end bolts to the steering arm with the allen bolt.
I didn't know the steering arms on the F1 bolted to the spindle. that would be easier than changing the spindles and brakes.

 

It still may be easier to change the spindles with the steering arms attached. They are usually really stuck in there. At the least I'd expect to have to take the spindle off the truck to hammer or press it out.