OK so heres the deal. Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. Has anyone had these issues and can someone possibly point me to the fix? I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.

 

Welcome to FTE.
Scan the computer for trouble codes & post All code numbers, as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
Check KOEO & KOER fuel pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve with a fuel pressure gauge. Should be 64 +/- 8psi. The fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump assy.
Installing new plugs with it seeming to be running rich, will have the over rich mixture foul the new plugs, so hold on throwing more parts at the problem until you have a better idea what's going on. Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Yea I already scanned the computer and it threw no codes except my usual one for the anti lock brake sensor. The reason I did the plugs was because I had no symptoms of anything being wrong until the day after I drove it and it wouldnt start at all. The thing was I was real low on gas, so I assumed maybe I went too low and ran out, so my buddy brought me a gallon of gas. Tried to fire it up, nothing happened but was sounding as if maybe it was flooded. So checked to make sure fuel pump was working, and it was, so next was to make sure it had spark. The plugs that were in there were the original plugs, 145k miles, so said it couldnt hurt to change em. Than I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump after a little research online and it fired right up and was running fine, I put fuse back in and ran to gas up. Half way there was when it started struggling to idle and had not much power when I gave it some gas. I noticed a little bit of black smoke but nothing too crazy, but still not a great sign. I got home and started it up as it was running rough and plugged in computer to see if I got a code. I didnt except the usual anti lock brake one. Hope a little more detail may help.

 

Unusual that an 02 Ranger performing so poorly hadn't set, or stored any trouble code clues.
With 145K miles on the original plugs & wires, they've lived almost two lifetimes & the plug gap is likely Way out of spec/wide, which will stress the ignition system as it'll have to generate more voltage to fire a worn plug with a wide out of spec gap, not good. The specified OEM plugs & wires are recommended, as they're of good quality & designed to take the Double work load our waste spark system puts on them. But I wouldn't install the new plugs until you get the seeming rich condition resolved, just pull & regap the old plugs, get it running better, Then gap & install the new plugs. Use a wire gauge & don't pull it through too tight a gap, so as not to damage the finewire center electrode, or sidewire platinum pad. Tighten the plugs to spec with a torque wrench.
Sounds like your Way behind on the vehicles scheduled maintenance, like plugs wires, O2 sensors which are usually replaced between 75-100K miles & maybe filters, like the fuel & air filters, PCV valve, fluids, ect, so perhaps have a look at the owner manual call outs & begin bringing All past & present due scheduled maintenance items up to date & I'd suggest OEM parts.
EDIT: Since your engine is a flex fuel 3.0L, be sure to scroll down to the "Miscellaneous" section of the forums Tech Info thread, located atop the thread index page, to find a "3.0L Tech Info" link put together by longtime member Rockledge, that you'll likely find interesting & helpful.

Be sure to visit the "Tech Info" thread atop the forum thread index page, for input on all kinds of helpful Ranger info. More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

Yea as far as maintenance the truck hasnt had much with the exception of oil changes. Unfortunately I got the truck in a breakup with an ex, she got my brand new car, I got stuck with her 100k mile ranger. Your right though, the plugs were way out of gap that were in there. Air filter I have changed along with other things, but I have never had an issue with the way it runs other than when I changed out the battery, coil pack and also alternator. Just crazy for this to happen all the sudden with no lead up, although it was doing the oil gauge thing where it would flicker after long distance drives. Im a try and start it up tomorrow and see what happens, just kind of lost where to go from here. My dad is a mechanic of 40 years, and it has him stumped, getting air, getting fuel and getting spark, should run. So you think I should pull them new plugs and put the old ones back in? And to add, yea its never had a problem with o2 sensor yet, although its starting to get to the point where everything is starting to go, she bought it brand new and only did mainly city driving. Already needs new ball joints, tie rods, upper control arms, the works on front end. And rear shackles in the back.

 

If your fuel pressure regulator goes nuts, it will allow too much fuel into the intake, and cause the black smoke and poor running you report. There is a schraeder valve on the fuel rail that allows checking pressure. Pawpaw told you the pressures to expect.
If too high, the computer will try to cut back on flow, but cannot cut back enough to compensate for the excessive pressure.
Swapping new for old plugs is, IMO, a waste of time now as they are what they are. Get the fuel coming in corrected and the plugs will be fine if they are ever going to be fine. No need to R&R them again unless they are too fouled to run.(unlikely IMO)
tom

 

There's also the "flex fuel sensor" which is supposed to tell the computer what the % of alcohol is in the fuel. A bad signal from the FFV sensor could cause fuel/air ratio problems.

With regard to the oil gauge going nuts, are you hearing any kind of noise from the camshaft synchronizer/sensor assembly? Check out: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post5934392

 

Well an update, So the truck sat all day today, than early evening I went out and drove it around a few blocks, it started a little rough, but than was good, idle was perfect, ran great and no issues at all. Was maybe wondering if its possible when I ran it real low on gas it was possibly out of gas, and had nothing but e85 in it, and a few times it didnt run well on e85 without it being mixed with regular gas, if maybe it burned thru it and running better. Not sure if that would do it or not, and I didnt drive it too far.

 

sounds a little with what i'm dealing with. but not as bad. You may want to put some chevron techron fuel injector cleaner in it. mine would not idle well at all but is improving. it cant hurt.

 

Yea so today I got up for work to go get my coffee and it wouldnt start. I had to pull the fuse for fuel pump to get it started, drove to get coffee with no issues, but when I pulled in my driveway the oil pressure gauge started going crazy again. Really no idea whats up with it, may take it into shop today or tomorrow, where they can figure out exactly whats wrong and fix it instead of trying to wonder whats gonna happen next.

 

If the vehicle is flooding that much the oil could be diluted with raw fuel. Which will make the pressure guage wonky.

Did you check the oil level?

 

Lets think about this some more. Have you performed a KOEO & KOER fuel pressure test & pressure bleed down tests yet, if so, post up the numbers & time it holds pressure after turning off. As tomw has said, if the fuel pressure regulator is acting out, it can affect fuel trim & delivery.

If your having to pull the fuel pump power relay fuse to get it started, something doesn't sound right.
At KOEO, wait & listen for the fuel pump to run for a couple of seconds to build pressure for the start & Turn Off. If it continues to run, something is wrong with the signal from the computer to turn off the fuel pump power relay after the two second prime, or the fuel pump power relay contacts are welded closed & if that's the case the fuel pump won't turn off & if that's the case the computer can't control cycle the fuel pump on/off time. If you suspect, or find that, swap the fuel pump power relay for a like one not needed to run the engine, like the AC power relay & see how it goes. Under hood power relays are a common problem part!!!!

Since this is a flex fuel 3.0L, as Rockledge has suggested, if its ethanol sensor goes wacky & sends the computer corrupt input about the % ethanol in the fuel, it'll have the fuel injectors squirt time off & that'll mess up the air/fuel ratio. High ethanol content fuel has more oxygen in it, so the computer has to compensate fuel injector squirt time to add more fuel to compensate for the extra O2 in ethanol fuel, to keep the air/fuel ratio as close to the 14.7:1 ideal as it can, so if the ethanol sensor output is corrupt, so will be fuel trim & if your scantool can read live sensor PID's to the computer, set it up to monitor fuel trim, O2 sensor 1 output range & switching speed, for both cyl banks, MAF sensor output, ECT sensor output, TPS output & the Flex Fuel Sensor output & post up the numbers.

In 145K miles have the fuel & air filters ever been replaced????

If in 145K the O2 sensors haven't been replaced, their switching range & speed are at least questionable, as they're usually ready for replacement around 75K miles, so with 145K on them they've lived two lifetimes &, are likely slow to switch & will likely have wimpy switching range, sorta like me, & that can affect fuel trim response time control!!!!
If the ECT & O2 sensors are close to being out of spec & sending the computer questionable info about true engine coolant temp & exhaust O2 content, that can affect fuel trim by corrupting when the computer goes from closed, to open loop operation, put all that together & you could have driveability problems. So since we don't have any trouble code clues, we need some sensor PID's, so we can see what kind of info the computer is getting.

 

Ok so on my way to work I finally got a check engine light. Plugged in my computer, and I got 2 codes. p1135 and p1145, I believe both are for the oxygen sensor. After researching it a little it does seem all my issues are tied into a bad o2 sensor. The truck since throwing a check engine light has been driving nicely, no issues and running fine, but the oil gauge does go a little crazy when im at a red light, but goes away when I accelerate.

 

Similar issue. Start w fuel filter. Easy to do and it never hurts to have a new one.