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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Ford truck information and then some....

 
  #76  
Old 12-24-2014, 10:03 AM
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And some more for you all.

Print out the "spotters card" and hand them out to you fellow Ford brothers.

I stick them under the door handle versus the w/s wiper....
 
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  #77  
Old 01-10-2015, 04:07 AM
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Want to know what it looks like inside the big ol box in the engine compartment? Not the best way to access your heater core.
 
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  #78  
Old 01-10-2015, 12:09 PM
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Second walk thru the same a post #66, what ever helps.

Dash bezel and cluster removal: Remove the 5 screws first. Far left between the headlight/wiper *****, there are 2 screws, 1 between the *****, and 1 above it, going in straight up. Moving right there are 2 more screws. 1 in the middle, 1 far right, both pointing straight up. Section heater control there is 1 screw pointing straight up.

Heater controls are in behind the dash plastic, they stay where they are, but you will slide/squeeze the levers, NO need to remove the *****. They will squeeze together and out of way to prevent them from hooking on the dash bezel when it comes off.

To remove the wiper **** it has a release clip on its shaft (right behind the ****) that you can put pressure on with small flat tip screwdriver in the tiny slot, press and release and slide the **** off.

Radio may be behind or in front the dash bezel, depending on how previous owner (P.O.) installed it. If its factory or shaft style, pull the ***** off the radio and you will see shallow nuts on the shafts. Clean the shaft threads with elec cleaner and small brush, because the shafts will strip VERY easily, use a deep set socket on them. Once the nuts are removed, there should be a plastic or metal radio plate to remove. Behind that are 2 more screws holding dash bezel to a metal bracket. But not always…

Okay, under the 3 sections that you see the gauges in, under the middle one there is a plastic tab from the dash bezel that is tucked behind the metal part of the dash. You can see the metal cutout area for it, when the headlight ****/shaft is pulled out or removed all together you can pull up on the plastic dash bezel to get the plastic tab out of the slot.

Disconnect the battery and pull out the HEADLIGHT ****/shaft. With all screws out of dash and radio loose, you should be able to tilt it forward and see the headlight switch directly behind where the headlight **** is. So with the shaft out then you tilt the plastic dash bezel forward to get your hand above the switch and feel for a metal button to press and hold to release the headlight shaft from the headlight switch. **** and shaft will slide out as one piece with the button held down. You might have to push and hold the button a few times, and pull and push the **** and shaft a few times to get it to come out. Head lights WILL be ON when you do this. I normally start all this by reaching up under the dash and remove the headlight **** and shaft 1st.

Cluster assembly is mounted with 4 screws, once they are out, CAREFULLY pull fwd on the assembly just a little. You need it fwd just enough to get a hand on the speedo cable white plastic connector. If you can not get it fwd enough, push yourself some slack in the cable from the eng compartment.

Then using your hand or a small pair of pliers (NOT A REAL GOOD IDEA) CAREFULLY squeeze the white clip till the cable comes out of the cluster (the white clip will come with it). DO NOT PRY on the clip it, will break and then you have another issue.

Squeeze the side of the main electrical connector and it should release.
 
  #79  
Old 01-10-2015, 12:10 PM
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Ok then here goes, there are 5+ ways to skin a cat, here is just what works for me. I am going off memory and am a long way from my truck to go look. This worked on my none a/c 79 4x4 F250 w/standard transmission, more than once, and I used the same technique on a 79 Bronco with a/c and a automatic transmission.
Painters tape on the door front edge when opened, and a little more plus the back edge of the fenders to prevent scratches. Disconnect battery and remove. Then drain radiator.
Tag and bag each piece of hdwr, or stick it in a large piece of card board and mark it accordingly.
1. Make sure you park the truck where you can get both doors open. Or BEFORE you put it inside a narrow shop....Open each door and remove the one bolt on each side that is right between the hinges. Now put it in the narrow shop...lol.
2. Take a scribe or sharpie and trace a mark the hood hinge positions on the underside of the hood. This will be helpful come reinstallation/realignment time. Hood removal is really a 2 person job. If you go it alone, be careful, great way to scratch the hood/cowl. If the hood is all the way open, it is front heavy when you remove the bolts. I can’t really explain a 1 man job here, but it looks like a monkey f..in a football. Just get a helping hand for this. If the hinges are compressed once removed, be careful as they can pop back up easily and get a finger in the process. Disconnect the hood ground on the passenger side. Make sure you make note of the stiffener brackets (under the hinges), if you have them. Ok hoods off.
3. At the very bottom edge/back side of each fender, is one bolt.
4. Make sure if you have the front fender/front edge to frame, small support bars (some do, some don't) remove them from the frame. I would remove them from the fender side also, just to prevent anything from getting bent.
5. Masking tape tag each electrical connection point on each side of the connection and mark them like (1-1), (2-2) or A-A, B-B and so on. There are 3? Main electrical connections on the dvrs side back by the fire wall, behind the hood hinge. Tape, tag, and disconnect.
6. There is an electrical harness that runs across the back side and above the fire wall on the passenger side and goes to the starter solenoid. Disconnect from solenoid (make sure you know make note, where each elbow plug goes on the starter solenoid.) There is a plug for voltage regulator, and then lay wiring on engine. Ground wire from solenoid to eng block (remove from solenoid side).
7. Look over the area behind the headlights/behind the core support area (each side for 1 small square plug) and the windshield washer tank for a elec plug in the front end of the tank. And the rubber feed line that goes to the T up by the cowl.
8. Top and bottom radiator hoses from back side of radiator. Fold rubber hoses back out of the way and zip tie, so they do not flip back open. Is it a automatic transmission? Disconnect transmission lines from radiator and cap lines.
9. There are these 1” or 2” wide rubber straps (one on each side) on the back side of the metal inner fenderwells that attach to the firewall, disconnect from firewall.
10. Scribe mark where the bracket that support the inner fenderwells (where it attaches to the fire wall). Remove 3 bolts per side.
11. Now if you are lucky here, down on EACH side of the radiator there is one main mount bolt for the radiator core support. Lucky meaning, it will come out and is not all rusty and stuck. But if it is rusty, stuck and or the head is stripped. Time for the sawzall. Red Diablo blades here and carefully cut between the top of the frame rail and the bottom of the core support. These bushings and bolt parts are available. A torch is not a good idea here the rubber bushings will smoke like crazy.
12. Have an old tire or some other similar support to set the front clip down on once removed. Put it under the middle of the core support/radiator. So you do not bend the front edge of your fenders.
13. I use 2 other FTE buddies + myself and we just pull the complete front clip off. Make sure the plastic inner fenderwell liners do not get hung up on the shock brackets. As far as by yourself, attach the cherry picker to the middle of the core support, it can be done with a piece of cable, some folks just pull the radiator and use chain. Make sure you triple ck all electrical connections and the core support bushings are free. Lift it up just a bit and ck the fenders, and then lift it up again, just a little. You are wanting to pull it more forward than up, so that the back edge of the fenders contact the back side of the tires. Like I said, it’s doable, but a PITA as far as a one man show. 2 guys can pull it way easier.
I am NOT positive on all the electrical connections, but that is the big stuff. I am sure some FTE members are reading this and will double ck me and chime in with what ever I missed.

Or maybe they have a better hood trick? Better than the one man eng puller set up? Yep double dipped myself, this is also on post # 26.
 
  #80  
Old 01-15-2015, 08:30 AM
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And they just keep on coming.
 
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  #81  
Old 01-20-2015, 05:15 AM
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And some more good stuff.
 
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  #82  
Old 02-02-2015, 08:21 AM
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UDATED INFO:

This is for a mid ship tank ,4x4 truck fuel tank support that always rusts out and are IMPOSSIBLE to find.

Mid ship fuel tank support cradle part # D7TZ9K134A - Reinforcement Assy. And more info in it here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86...ank-mount.html
And mid ship sending unit info D9TZ-9275-A (replaced D7TZ-9275-H & D8TZ-9275-D) .. Fuel Sending Unit-Use w/Mid-Ship Plastic Fuel Tank / Includes float, filter screen and gasket / Obsolete

Marked: D8TF-AA, AB, AC, DA; D9TF-AA.
Applications: 1977 F250 Regular Cab 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy) / 1978/79 F150/250 4WD Regular Cab / 1979 F350 4WD Regular Cab.

D9TZ-9275-A
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.
HIGH BUCK! BOB ALLEN FORD in Overland Park KS has 3 = 800-676-0675.


D7TZ-9275-H =
ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX = 817-275-2381.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959 / 513-731-3304.

D8TZ-9275-D =
JST AUTOMOTIVE
GREEN SALES CO.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS
D9TZ-9275-A is the correct one for 1979 F350 4wd regular cab midship tank?
 
  #83  
Old 02-03-2015, 01:54 PM
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years from now the parts will be gone unfortunately
 
  #84  
Old 02-15-2015, 12:44 AM
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GREAT THREAD! Lots of useful info!
Thanks Man!
 
  #85  
Old 02-15-2015, 10:46 PM
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And again some more...Spicer manual is big, but lots of good info.
 
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  #86  
Old 02-24-2015, 06:41 PM
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Spicer D44 manual....
 
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  #87  
Old 03-12-2015, 05:07 PM
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Ihave a 78 f250 4+4 351m400 i sold the truck then bought it back the guy that had it replaced the transmission in it how do i find out what he put in it where or if there is a plate where do i look?? also the shifter rod hits the dash when you shift it does not look like the one that i remember where do i find another one??
 
  #88  
Old 03-12-2015, 05:39 PM
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dmyboat this overall thread purpose is a tech/information thread and not really the correct place to ask questions. But you are new, so welcome to FTE and I suggest you make your own thread and I am sure you will get the answer or more answers.

Till then here is what I have for you, this exact information is in the past posts (#6) in this very thread. Get to clicking and get to reading, it is in here along with a whole lot more.

NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins. To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it. (Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction.

The other person hits it from the top with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in.) People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins.
Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. ( I believe it the NP435)
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B
 
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:43 AM
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Thank You for the info i am sorry for posting it in the wrong place i justjoined yesterday i will learn how to post.
 
  #90  
Old 03-13-2015, 06:47 AM
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No problem, go to the main 73-79 forum thread list (1st link) and click on the "new thread" (2nd link) box and go from there to get you very own thread in the overall list.

1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/n...newthread&f=38
 

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