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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Ford truck information and then some....

 
  #196  
Old 11-19-2017, 09:41 AM
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Was doing some research and found this awesome thread for 3G upgrade. Thanks HIO.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-costs.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wire-help.html
 
  #197  
Old 11-20-2017, 01:06 PM
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A little thread info thanks to SlickWillie about using the Ford bed bolts for a Superduty on our trucks.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ob-thread.html

Screw- N806251-S103 Nut- N803334-S439 The nut is/should be already pre threaded, or make sure you get them that way.

From Ford the screw is $19.60 EACH the nut is $13.20 EACH. OUCH

Or ck out Doreman kit #924-311

https://www.dormanproducts.com/itemd...SEName=924-311

From Summit $45

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...waAuqQEALw_wcB
 
  #198  
Old 12-30-2017, 11:50 PM
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77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.
Yes it's been a while since I added anything on here.
 
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  #199  
Old 01-03-2018, 10:52 PM
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Yes I know it has been a few days since I posted any good stuff, sorry been busy working on my red truck finally...and thanks to all the contributors of the good stuff.
 
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  #200  
Old 01-05-2018, 12:03 PM
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Rich - This information, as always, is fantastic.

This suggestion may come a little late but if you put the title of each diagram in your posts then searching for this information could be considerably easier.

Thanks for your many, many contributions to the forum. You have helped me on countless occasions.
 
  #201  
Old 01-05-2018, 12:11 PM
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When I 1st did this I was working off a word doc and all my saved pics, and was setting in a hotel in Russia drinking vodka.

I wanted to have the pictures fall in line with the words...but I was almost overwhelmed just doing what I did. I am NOT a computer guy what so ever.

And recently with photo bucket stuff happening, FTE just made it so I can edit each page, all the way back to the 1st post. I will try to get the name of the diagram added to each post.

I figure people would build there own tech library/folders on a PC or lap top, that way you do not need the web to look up things.

I appreciate the input.
 
  #202  
Old 01-06-2018, 01:34 PM
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meangreen92 with some great info: "Oh man! I did a really good thing to mine. I bought a pair of 168 bulbs to put in my cluster for the gauge lights. O'Reilly must be one rich SOB, because he gets like $6 for two 168 bulbs!

So I went outside and installed the bulbs in their parking lot! Gotta love these trucks: I changed the bulbs by simply reaching up under the dash - no bezel or cluster removal! The ones I took out must be 194s, because my gauges light up brighter now! The 168s are a little brighter when the lights dim at idle, than the 194s were at 2000 RPM!

I highly recommend 168s for gauge illumination. Save those 194s for idiot lights, the high beam indicator, and the turn signal indicators!

The other night I looked through the 1979 F-series owner's manual which came with my truck, and made note of the bulb specs. Then I did some research, and found that 194s produce 2 lumens, while the 168s produce 3 lumens! You can definitely tell the difference! That third lumen does come at the expense of some bulb-life, but bright gauges are worth it."

And kfc with some even better follow up info: "instead of buying 2 bulbs at a time tell the counter guy you want to buy a bulk box of 10 it's way cheaper. Instead of $3.00 for 2 you get 10 for about the same price."
 
  #203  
Old 01-14-2018, 09:21 AM
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Pic 1: There's an 'I' terminal that's not used. The 'S' terminal on the voltage regulator is for switched 12 VDC...only hot in RUN, from the ignition switch. From the ALT 'S' terminal it goes to the automatic choke, that's it. Not used any other time unless someone wants to run a switched 12 volt source....lots of wiring there.

Pic 2:The START/BYPASS and BALLAST RESISTOR circuit.....a bit confusing as to the "12v at RUN" (ignition switch picture) and "RED GREEN - HOT while on RUN 12v." To clarify - yes, 12 VDC is supplied from the ICM while in RUN from the truck. Goes through the ballast resistor in RUN and reduced to 6 -9 VDC.
In START (at the start bypass red wire at ignition switch in yer picture), there is not 6v constant.....there is 12VDC there ONLY in START.

Pic 3: The last diagram:....Again the automatic choke (if used) only gets power from the S terminal on the ALT.

A big thanks to Filthy Beast for reviewing them.
 
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  #204  
Old 01-21-2018, 10:40 AM
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Some more good stuff.
 
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  #205  
Old 01-25-2018, 08:34 PM
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I just found this and it is way to good of a thread to NOT link it here. jklnhyd hit it way outa the ball park with this one. Thank you.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...formation.html
 
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  #206  
Old 02-12-2018, 09:39 AM
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meangreen92 with some words of wisdom that I had to save for others to see. This covers an issue of blowing a fuse in the fuse block (top R/H #2 in the diagram) when you connect an aftermarket radio to the OEM connection improperly. And BTW the OEM connection is the green square plug.



"Improper radio installation, the common mistake is to use the blue-with-red-stripe wire as a ground, since it shares a connector with the yellow switched-12V+ wire, and that will blow that fuse the first time you turn on the lights and hit the brake. That blue-with-red-stripe wire is for the dial light in the original factory radio, so if it gets grounded, it will pop that fuse."

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17791311
 
  #207  
Old 02-18-2018, 09:41 AM
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A couple of new ones, thanks folks.
 
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  #208  
Old 03-17-2018, 06:59 AM
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77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.

 
  #209  
Old 03-18-2018, 08:41 AM
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None PDF version. And where to get the bushings/insulator. Thanks ND.

1) C6TZ-6A061-A .. T/C Insulator / Obsolete/Reproduced?
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 3 = 972-937-2201.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
1) C6TZ-6068-D .. T/C Insulator / Obsolete/Reproduced?
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 4 = 800-543-4959
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 10 = 800-476-9653.
NOS PARTS LTD has 11.
 
  #210  
Old 03-20-2018, 09:48 PM
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77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.77&79F250 has a spectacular reputation.
Did you buy a parts CD and need help figuring out part #'s ? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-number-s.html

Thanks mikeo0o0o0
 

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