Bought a 2000 F250 7.3l and it had a rough idle and a miss and smelled like a hint of diesel not fully burned. Changed out icp and cps and rough idle smoothed out but still had what sounded like a miss (the truck has a short ehaust so it is loud) white smoke from oil filler and exhaust. Started driving the truck back to college and while driving the truck just shut off and I didnt notice that it had overheated. I thought siezed motor but it started back up a few hours later (radiator was clogged pretty bad) now it would drive for probably a minute at 70 then start losing power till I would pull over and it shut down at idle, it now does this constantly but now if i drive 55 its fine when i push it thats when it starts to shut down. Now it has a very LOUD knock on the passenger side from I think the last cylinder and the underhood fuel filter was filthy and the return line screen. Also when driving if I shift to neutral it revs to about 2000 for a bit then comes down to idle

 

Welcome to FTE!

What's the history of the truck?

How many miles?

Was it sitting for a while before you started driving it?

You obviously have fuel problems. How much fuel is in the truck now?

 

Yup, sure sounds like low fuel pressure to me . . .

 

The most common fix for fuel pressure problems are to clean the in tank screens in the mixing chamber. The more permanent fix is to do the in tank mods, delete these screens, and add an in line filter between the tank and pump.

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

 

If you take the oil filler cap off while it is running, flip it upside down and set in back on the fill port will it stay or does it get blown off by pressure?

Oh yeah and a Big Welcome to FTE

 

Just keeping it simple so you don't miss the initial cause........




You changed your fuel filter and made sure the proper oring and seat gasket were used.


You started the truck and took a tour of your fuel filter assy to make sure you didn't cause a leak after it's running. (Insufficient seal, or inverted seal?)


Next phase, lay under your rig on the drivers side and have a lovely assistant in a skirt jump in and turn the key on with all acc off and the door closed so it's very....very quiet.


You should be hearing the frame rail pump above your head singing true. If it even misses a note. Look at replacing that well before you work your way back to the tank and all the bull**** (just saying guys, here to help with the kiss method) that comes with it.


I have replaced a Carter, and a Bosch fuel pump within 2 years and 15k miles. 1 year warranty. No help there...........I went to O'riellys because I had to (needed the truck for the weekend...) And they charged 145.00 with mil discount, lifetime warranty. In the mean time I ordered a "premium pump" from ebay by global automotive for 38 bucks and free shipping.


I'll throw the 38 in the Godbox and see how things go.


Moral of the story.....work from the engine back in terms of fuel. It's cheaper and less time consuming. AAAAnd everything you replace with diagnosis is in need of renewal anyway...just paying forward if you will.


Save your leftovers tho.


My fuel pumps >I say pumps, lasted a very short time, and both made a warbling sound. Working hard intermittently.


Turned out that time! I did have to drop my tank and clean the socks in the mixing chamber. All was good after that. Those pumps weren't faulty, just struggling the whole time. Can't say yay or nay on brand.


Eyeball that fuel pump and give us a written report at (burp) oh' ten hunred. LOL


GL,


Keep us appraised of your status.


Denny

 

You know, in all the troubleshooting on all sorts of vehicles, I miss this step!

I don't recall Tugly ever mentioning this step either, in any of his threads!

 

I'm just a stick in the mud, aren't I.


I'm confused on the plugged radiator thing - how was that determined?


Knocking - many things in the truck can make it sound like it's flying apart, and low fuel pressure or air in fuel is high on the list.


White smoke from the oil filler tube can be anything from a kinked CCV elbow on the air intake, to a loose injector, to a bad cup. The upside-down oil filler cap is an important test right now.


If you have a multimeter, there is a free test you can do - just click the UVCH link in my signature for instructions.


Look at the black box by your left foot (the size of a hard-back book) - next to the parking brake. Is there a rectangular hole cut into the plastic with a chip or duct tape visible?

 

With the rough idle when cold and the smell of fuel, It sounded like a bad injector. The cutting out sounds like low fuel flow.

 

The white smoke, the big bang, the smell of fuel, the miss, and the weird drop to idle can all add up to a loose injector.


The banging... does it sound like this?

 

Can't say I agree with you on starting from the engine back, as you said yourself you replaced the FP more than once when the real problem was in the tank. I think that every one of these trucks should have the in tank mods done or will eventually have issues. And the tank mods are cheaper than the OEM FP. I would start at the filter and lines, then proceed to the tank. But I would do the in tank mods on any truck whether having issues or not.

 

Its a swapped motor, it is a 2000 engine block but has a e99 turbo and a mechanical fuel pump, and I dont know history of the truck before me but I was thinking the ipr might be sticking too, but as it comes down to idle it will start missing and have an high idle (about 900)

 

Yes it sounds like that!! And it sounds like its from the rear passenger side of the engine block!

 

Well, I have good news and bad news.


Bad news: If it sounds just like that, that is the sound of an injector trying to pop out of the head because the hold-down bolt is loose. This puts fluids and combustion gasses where they don't belong, and a fog bank in the morning. Tightening the bolts won't be a good enough repair by this point, those below 50 INCH-pounds of torque need a whole new set of O-rings and a copper washer - which means pulling the offensive injectors.


Good news: All you need to buy is a set of Alliant injector O-rings from Riffraff Diesel or Guzzle's Diesel O-rings. Pop the top and check all the sticks for 50 inch/pounds - anything below that gets pulled. The rest of the bolts need to be tightened to 120 inch-pounds (book), but I do 130 inch/pounds. After all the bolts are tight, start the truck with your valve covers off - don't worry, it won't make a mess. Run the truck up to full temperature - watching the rocker arms, valves, oil spouts, and oil flow for any inconsistencies. Once the engine is warm, re-torque the injector hold-down bolts to spec. before buttoning up.


Oh... and check your UVCH (link in signature) - this is the time to get that in order.


That is on the assumption your truck sounds just like that - and that implies somebody has done injector work on your truck within the last 2-5 thousand miles.

 

Like I say its a swapped motor so im sure they fooled around with the injectors and didnt retorque right, as for the loss of power and stall, would that sound like a failing MECHANICAL fuel pump? (they installed mechanical idk why?) Its only when the motor needs a lot of fuel does it start to lose power more and more