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OK, now I understand, I had originally thought that you might have meant that 1" spacer but was reading your post wrong and thought that you used it on the front springs. Because of what I thought, I was asking for clarification because using ANY LIFT BLOCKS on the front springs is dangerous and should never be done. But obviously I was wrong so you don't get that lecture.
However..........The picture shows that you now have STACKED BLOCKS on the rear. So now you get that lecture. Not nearly as bad as blocks on the front but still not that good of an idea. It's much better to use a single block to attain the amount of lift required than to stack them. With stacked blocks there is a chance of being able to spit one/both out under extreme high loads and or articulations. (I think KrazeeMatt has a picture of his old Jeep's spit out rear blocks). What size is that bottom block that looks like aluminum? Maybe look into a set of the F-350 tapered blocks to replace the stacked set if you are around 3.75"-4" combined now.
I actually ran with the same 1" spacer and the stock 2" EX blocks stacked for about 2 months after my spring swap until I bought the F-350 tapered blocks and had a chance to install them.
However..........The picture shows that you now have STACKED BLOCKS on the rear. So now you get that lecture. Not nearly as bad as blocks on the front but still not the a good idea. It's much better to use a single block to attain the amount of lift required than to stack them. With stacked blocks there is a chance of being able to spit one/both out under extreme high loads and or articulations. (I think KrazeeMatt has a picture of his old Jeep's spit out rear blocks). What size is that bottom block that looks like aluminum? Maybe look into a set of the F-350 tapered blocks to replace the stacked set if you are around 3.75"-4" combined now.
I actually ran with the same 1" spacer and the stock 2" EX blocks stacked for about 2 months after my spring swap until I bought the F-350 tapered blocks and had a chance to install them.
Your assessment of my "stacked" blocks is not correct. The 1" spacer is retained by the center bolt of the leaf pack and behaves as such. This is why they are refered to it as a zero-rate-add-a-leaf. here is a commercially available version. Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design. This design is also acceptable in front (not ideal, I agree). Basically it is the same as our "slapper" anti wrap bar that is cut off.
edit-- To answer your question about the block, It is the stock Ex block to maintain the bump stop function. I agree that no block would be ideal but this set-up is plenty safe or I would not do it. If I like the way this 'wheels I will do a shackle flip or something to clear bigger tires (the usual money pit way of thinking). This is semi-temporary.
So no disrespect intended but please save the lecture for someone who needs it and has less of a grasp on physics and suspension design.
Just to be clear, I do agree stacked blocks and blocks in front are a big no-no.
Your assessment of my "stacked" blocks is not correct. The 1" spacer is retained by the center bolt of the leaf pack and behaves as such. This is why they are refered to it as a zero-rate-add-a-leaf. here is a commercially available version. Add a Leafs, Zero Rate for 4x4 Suspensions from Offroad Design. This design is also acceptable in front (not ideal, I agree). Basically it is the same as our "slapper" anti wrap bar that is cut off.
So no disrespect intended but please save the lecture for someone who needs it and has less of a grasp on physics and suspension design.
Just to be clear, I do agree stacked blocks and blocks in front are a big no-no.
Damn, I hate when that happens! You are totally correct and when I had that same spacer on my pack it was indeed through bolted with the rest of the spring pack. I had totally forgotten that fact, thank you! My old hairy brain just saw two chunks of metal on top of each other and it said "NO!" and forgot all about how that little guy gets through bolted.
My misdirected "Lecture" was just meant as helpful advice as we do see actual stacked blocks come through here frequently and we try to steer folks to a better alternative to them. But I think you knew that and thanks for the smilie to make that more clear. With a strong enough swat to the back of my head I can remember stuff.
EDIT: Is your stock EX 2"-ish block painted silver? I thought it looked like aluminum.
I do appreciate the concern for my family's and our community at large's safety. I am glad my comments were well received. I was a little hesitant to argue with the principle... A.K.A a Mod. as a newbie. Part of why I have lurked here so long is the friendly banter rather than the brutal flamings that are on so many other forums.
as we do see actual stacked blocks come through here frequently
Emphasis added for...well....emphasis! LOL!
Originally Posted by hskendrick
I was a little hesitant to argue
Approach it in a manner as not to argue, but rather to give more info to clear up a misunderstanding.
Typing on a forum can be fraught with pitfalls since tone and body language are missing, so I understand your concern. But I have found that for me, in a situation like the above, if I approach a post without the "argument" factor, my words usually convey what I want without the negative aspect. And trust me, I have a biting, sarcastic humor that's funny as hell in person, but can be taken very badly online, so I try hard to keep that under wraps...especially because of the red letter font in my user name.
W code in the front, F code on the rear. 24.25" front, 25" rear. Looks really good so flat. It rides very well to boot. Sad thing was it too me too many years of reading about the spring swaps before finally doing it.
When I bought my EX, I assumed everything was stock. Front measured 22 1/2" and rear was 24". Just finished installing ATS X codes in the front and F-350 blocks in the rear. New measurements are 25 1/2" front and 26 1/2" rear. If the fronts settle in too much I'll add a shackle kit to level it back out, but for now I'm really happy with the results.
How it sits now with the X codes and F-350 blocks.
I just purchased this truck this past Friday, and it appears that it has a Fabtech Kit# K2026, 5.5" lift. However, the rear springs have a sticker that reads "Betts".
Heights:
Front Driver - 29.5
Back Driver - 30
Front Passenger - 30
Back Passenger - 30.5
10-09-2015, 10:44 AM
Not nearly as bad as blocks on the front but still not that good of an idea. It's much better to use a single block to attain the amount of lift required than to stack them. With stacked blocks there is a chance of being able to spit one/both out under extreme high loads and or articulations. (I think KrazeeMatt has a picture of his old Jeep's spit out rear blocks). What size is that bottom block that looks like aluminum? Maybe look into a set of the F-350 tapered blocks to replace the stacked set if you are around 3.75"-4" combined now.
You are totally correct and when I had that same spacer on my pack it was indeed through bolted with the rest of the spring pack. I had totally forgotten that fact, thank you! 
With a strong enough swat to the back of my head I can remember stuff. 
why?
