Modded Suspensions Call - Request your measurents
#196
I want to play too, but I haven't begun the suspension work yet... So how about some "before" measurements taken from a stock 182K '00 V10 with a half-inch between the only remaining bumpstop and the front spring?
FRONT- 22.5
REAR- 25.5
Assuming I remember, I'll come back here and post the "after" measurements and what I did, when I get done.
FRONT- 22.5
REAR- 25.5
Assuming I remember, I'll come back here and post the "after" measurements and what I did, when I get done.
are you certain the rest is totally stock ?
#197
Rechecked my measurements, and yep, that is what I have. I guess the rear could be modified, but if it was, it was done ages ago, as it looks just as rusty as everything else. It has the short blocks and 7 leafs, with the slapper being #8 if you count it as a leaf. Does that sound stock? I'm not sure.
Anyway, I mentioned in another thread that I bought a group of parts, and with them came a pair of tall blocks and front springs that I am about 90% sure are "T" codes. I put them on and it only netted me about a quarter inch of lift in the front- so I imagine after some settling I'll be right back where I started. I'm thinking it has to do with the way the front of the spring (by the eye) is curved-shaped rather than flat like the Excursion springs are. Haven't done the rear blocks yet.
Anyway, this isn't going to work for me, so I guess I'll be getting some new X-codes from ATS
Anyway, I mentioned in another thread that I bought a group of parts, and with them came a pair of tall blocks and front springs that I am about 90% sure are "T" codes. I put them on and it only netted me about a quarter inch of lift in the front- so I imagine after some settling I'll be right back where I started. I'm thinking it has to do with the way the front of the spring (by the eye) is curved-shaped rather than flat like the Excursion springs are. Haven't done the rear blocks yet.
Anyway, this isn't going to work for me, so I guess I'll be getting some new X-codes from ATS
#198
Rechecked my measurements, and yep, that is what I have. I guess the rear could be modified, but if it was, it was done ages ago, as it looks just as rusty as everything else. It has the short blocks and 7 leafs, with the slapper being #8 if you count it as a leaf. Does that sound stock? I'm not sure.
Anyway, I mentioned in another thread that I bought a group of parts, and with them came a pair of tall blocks and front springs that I am about 90% sure are "T" codes. I put them on and it only netted me about a quarter inch of lift in the front- so I imagine after some settling I'll be right back where I started. I'm thinking it has to do with the way the front of the spring (by the eye) is curved-shaped rather than flat like the Excursion springs are. Haven't done the rear blocks yet.
Anyway, this isn't going to work for me, so I guess I'll be getting some new X-codes from ATS
Anyway, I mentioned in another thread that I bought a group of parts, and with them came a pair of tall blocks and front springs that I am about 90% sure are "T" codes. I put them on and it only netted me about a quarter inch of lift in the front- so I imagine after some settling I'll be right back where I started. I'm thinking it has to do with the way the front of the spring (by the eye) is curved-shaped rather than flat like the Excursion springs are. Haven't done the rear blocks yet.
Anyway, this isn't going to work for me, so I guess I'll be getting some new X-codes from ATS
T codes are only rated at 4400lbs vs the stock V-10 C code fronts at 4300 lbs, not much difference there, my notes show an expected +1.42" ride height increase but maybe those T codes were as tired as your stockers.
#199
Front right and Front Left = 24.5"
Rear right and Rear left = 25.25"
Suspension mods stock except:
I'm in the process of replacing my shocks and adding a rear sway bar (none present now) in hopes to help handling.
2000 Excursion Limited, 7.3 Diesel, 280,000 miles, I bought the truck new in 1/00
Rear right and Rear left = 25.25"
Suspension mods stock except:
- added a spring leaf to both front and rear spring pack to eliminate sagging in 2017
- currently using Monroe Reflex shocks since 2010, but changing to Bilstein 5100 front and 4600 rear
- added air bags for towing race trailer in 2013
- Replaced steering box with RedHead steering box in 2018. Amazing improvement!
I'm in the process of replacing my shocks and adding a rear sway bar (none present now) in hopes to help handling.
2000 Excursion Limited, 7.3 Diesel, 280,000 miles, I bought the truck new in 1/00
#200
Front right and Front Left = 24.5"
Rear right and Rear left = 25.25"
Suspension mods stock except:
I'm in the process of replacing my shocks and adding a rear sway bar (none present now) in hopes to help handling.
2000 Excursion Limited, 7.3 Diesel, 280,000 miles, I bought the truck new in 1/00
Rear right and Rear left = 25.25"
Suspension mods stock except:
- added a spring leaf to both front and rear spring pack to eliminate sagging in 2017
- currently using Monroe Reflex shocks since 2010, but changing to Bilstein 5100 front and 4600 rear
- added air bags for towing race trailer in 2013
- Replaced steering box with RedHead steering box in 2018. Amazing improvement!
I'm in the process of replacing my shocks and adding a rear sway bar (none present now) in hopes to help handling.
2000 Excursion Limited, 7.3 Diesel, 280,000 miles, I bought the truck new in 1/00
Welcome to the EX forum!
Read this thread, it may help to get your EX handling much better.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16086297
#201
- added a spring leaf to both front and rear spring pack to eliminate sagging in 2017
- Since new, my truck handled OK, not great, but not white-knuckle, until I added the additional leaf to the front and rear spring pack in 2017. Since then handling is horrible, sway is horrible, wander is horrible. I'm in the process of replacing my shocks and adding a rear sway bar (none present now) in hopes to help handling.
Lots of great advice on this site, and after spending a great deal of time over the past month reading, I can give you the Executive Summary: it boils down to swapping springs to either V- or X-codes in the front and "modified" B- or C-codes in back, or ProComp 22210 front and 22415 rear along with the shocks of your choice. Then, a quality alignment that gets 5* or more caster while maintaining camber within spec. Between a 2-3" lift is the result.
Adding up the ProComp route with Bilstein 5125s, that's around $1500 - springs, shocks, brake hoses, adjustable trackbar, hardware, and alignment. The V/X/B/C route is probably around an additional $500 or so. Not cheap, but there isn't a cheap way to correct the deficiencies in design or the effects of time.
Good to hear another glowing report on the RedHead... glad it makes you happy. That's on my list, but still a ways to go to get to it.
#203
ATS Junior hooked me up with the 43-818 (aftermarket "X-codes") and I put them under the truck and snugged the U-bolts- just to get this measurement for you all before the Zone spring pack goes on (awaiting new pins and U-bolts from ATS). Front measurement with JUST the new leaf springs is...
FRONT- 25.25
I stacked shims under the rear tires to mimic a level stance before I measured- I wasn't sure if the butt-drag stance would alter the measurement or not. I should be reporting back Friday or so to share the final front number with the Zone packs installed. Then I'll start a topic on what to do about the rear end...
FRONT- 25.25
I stacked shims under the rear tires to mimic a level stance before I measured- I wasn't sure if the butt-drag stance would alter the measurement or not. I should be reporting back Friday or so to share the final front number with the Zone packs installed. Then I'll start a topic on what to do about the rear end...
#204
ATS Junior hooked me up with the 43-818 (aftermarket "X-codes") and I put them under the truck and snugged the U-bolts- just to get this measurement for you all before the Zone spring pack goes on (awaiting new pins and U-bolts from ATS). Front measurement with JUST the new leaf springs is...
FRONT- 25.25
I stacked shims under the rear tires to mimic a level stance before I measured- I wasn't sure if the butt-drag stance would alter the measurement or not. I should be reporting back Friday or so to share the final front number with the Zone packs installed. Then I'll start a topic on what to do about the rear end...
FRONT- 25.25
I stacked shims under the rear tires to mimic a level stance before I measured- I wasn't sure if the butt-drag stance would alter the measurement or not. I should be reporting back Friday or so to share the final front number with the Zone packs installed. Then I'll start a topic on what to do about the rear end...
Building a hybrid pack from junk yard parts is one thing but if you are buying them new you should get the exact spring rate and arch you want without having to hodge podge a pack together.
#205
I consider shimming part of the alignment, and part of my criteria behind a "quality" alignment would be a shop that knows they need degreed shims right off the bat. Not that shops who don't work with trucks don't do quality work, but they have to be knowledgeable with our vehicles - a shop that only sees a steady stream of minivans and econoboxes will likely do your alignment, give you the bill, and say, "sorry, we could only get it to 2.5*". A good shop would know the minute you mentioned it that they need shims - which they should have in stock, or can get in minutes. Asking up front would be prudent so you don't wind up making two trips.
#206
I am a little lost here, you ordered new springs from a vendor but are adding another spring to the pack from a second vendor ? Why not just order the springs that is will net you the desired ride height from the first vendor ?
Building a hybrid pack from junk yard parts is one thing but if you are buying them new you should get the exact spring rate and arch you want without having to hodge podge a pack together.
Building a hybrid pack from junk yard parts is one thing but if you are buying them new you should get the exact spring rate and arch you want without having to hodge podge a pack together.
#209
Haven't decided on shocks yet, but as noted by others, the "Excursion" shocks aren't long enough. Even taking it easy, I reached the limit of the shocks often. I'll be digging through all the shock posts to see what I can find that is fairly budget-friendly. Brought it back in and started stacking boards under the rear tires to approximate what I need to do in the rear. I have 7 leafs plus the slapper, where most everyone else has (or had) 6 plus the slapper). It looks like I need to aim for 5.5 to 6 inches in the rear to be where I want it. I'll be starting a new thread soon as to not clog this one up.
#210
Springs do not determine your ride quality shocks do.
the springs provide payload capacity by providing spring rate and determine your ride height by the arch and spring rate.
by adding additional spring rate when you added the zone leafs you will need more shock valving to control the speed at which the springs move and this is what determines your ride quality.
More shock valving will produce a stiffer ride, using less shock valving on a higher spring rate will provide a more bouncy ride.
Given your higher spring rate rate you can use a shock with less compression valving and let the spring act as the damper but you still need a good bit of rebound valving to keep it from being bouncy.
The best you can say about your ride without shocks is it has a taller ride height.
the springs provide payload capacity by providing spring rate and determine your ride height by the arch and spring rate.
by adding additional spring rate when you added the zone leafs you will need more shock valving to control the speed at which the springs move and this is what determines your ride quality.
More shock valving will produce a stiffer ride, using less shock valving on a higher spring rate will provide a more bouncy ride.
Given your higher spring rate rate you can use a shock with less compression valving and let the spring act as the damper but you still need a good bit of rebound valving to keep it from being bouncy.
The best you can say about your ride without shocks is it has a taller ride height.