Some people seem to be confused on the topic of originality.

It's only original once .. when it leaves the assembly line. A vehicle, once it's rebuilt, is no longer original.

 

^Agreed on only original once in my eyes. otherwise restored to factory spec. Do you really want the unibody as the candidate for all these mods? Seems like a regular non Uni truck would better suit your needs. Unless you really want it done to this one. I'd like to see how you adapt the body into a newer platform. If I remember a fellow member was trying to body swap onto a newer truck frame but due to all the humps in the newer frames he was going to have his work cutout for him. Sure would like to see this project come to life though.

 

I've had it media blasted, rusty panels replaced. Rad support replaced when I was hit by a wayward driver, Motor rebuilt as I've put on over 300,000 miles on it. Tranmission rebuilt, new tires, brake pads, starter solenoids, relays etc.

but if we are going to be a stickler for semantics I never said it was original but, and I quote my original posting:

" I've had that car for 37 years already and it is still as original with no mods to it. "

Would you prefer I use in Factory Correct condition?

Classic Car Club of America Rules PDF

The point of the posting was just that the F250 will not be a restored Factory Correct show car, it will be heavily modified, and in no way can the build be justified as a prudent use of money, it is just because I want to and at the present moment in time my financials will allow me to.

 

Bottom line it is YOUR truck to do as YOU wish , I hope to see some photos when its done !

 

Should be a challenge, I just like the look of the unibodies and I'm hoping new metal stiffening of the body and frame will stop the warping/door problems. I'm also thinking of installing a floating door hinge and using cam locks instead of latch and striker bolt (I come from an aviation background) if the problem occurs after I finish the project.

One type of camlock is shown in the figure below, the channel is shown at position 174 on the attached image: That piece is made to rotate around the "striker bolt (168)" and sucks the door closed. It is then rotated the other direction to release the striker bolt. Because aircraft flex so much this allows for a lot more play in the door mating to the mechanism itself but will hold the door tight when closed so that the pinching of the locking mechanism or popping the door open would not be possible. If looking at the following diagram the door would open out to the right and is presently in the closed position. Fig 13a is unlocked and 13b is locked with the cam lock rotated around the striker pin and holding the door in place.

 

Yup you will see photos from before after and in between as it gets going. But I still appreciate all advice from people with more experience. Better to learn from someone else than have to figure it all out yourself. It is only the insecure or unwise whom refuse to seek the advice of others or learn from their own mistakes.

 

I've been a member of CCCA since 1966, so I know that over the years some of the rules have changed.

Originally only certain 1925/42 cars were accepted, but now includes some 1946/48's as long as they match the 1942's.

Some examples: 1946/47 Packard Clipper Custom Super 8 - 1946/48: Cadillac 75 & Lincoln Continental - Rolls-Royce & Bentley.

 

They have but I've never shown my cars just wanted to be a stickler about keeping them as the factory intended. If you are up to it I get to LA about 6 times a year and would like to take you out for coffee and talk about cars and hear any ideas you have about this or any of my modes of transport.

 

I've also been a member of both Packard clubs since 1966 (I've owned 60 Packards), also belonged to the Cadillac-LaSalle Club (1931 Cadillac V16 Imperial Sedan), Lincoln-Continental Owners Club (1940 Continental coupe, only 50 assembled), Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg (1937 Cord 810 Sportsman) and various other car clubs.

If you want to talk cars, be prepared for a loooong session. I've been in this hobby since 1956 and have 100's of books on auto history.

 

Sounds good, next time I get a trip to LA with a day over I'll send you a message. You've had some very nice vehicles. Would like to hear about them.

 

I've turned the P/M & email features off, was receiving dozens of each every week, took a long time to answer them.

I also turned off the pesky Visitors Message feature after a non member asked for all the part numbers for the 1950's/60's Lincoln Vickers Drive P/S pumps. I didn't bother answering it.

sylhall@aol.com

 

I've got a 62 "wrong" bed and have wondered if it would be possible to adapt a unibody bed from a donor vehicle to my truck using a traditional setup. I'm not sure I want to go that far with my truck--it's a work truck still--but it may work in your situation without frame mods and aircraft latches.

~Steve

 

Having given up on Ford releasing an electronic control package for the 3.5 ecoboost I have spent the last 6 months trying to get something on Copart or erepairables from anywhere in the Western US/Canada. Last week I accidentally came across my donor vehicle in my own home town. I had been looking for parts for a truck I have lent to my son and there it was (it appears God does reward you for lending your kid a vehicle for over a year):

2012 F150 Lariat, 3.5L ecoboost, Navigation System, 4x4, electronically locking rear axle, tow package and heavy load package (even came with dealer option sticker) dual zone heating/airco, 97,000 km/61,000 mi. Fully running, straight frame..... It was parked and someone backed a crane into it. Crushed the top right side of the cab and the insurance company wrote it off.

Thing runs and drives, no leaks, engine bay intact, the owner let me take it to my Ford Dealer to get checked out before purchase and it would seem that everything is running as it should.

After I sell the drivers seat, rear seats, carpets, box and tailgate, both driver side doors, rear window, front bumper etc... I should be into it for between $2500 and $3000. Can not decide whether or not to sell the Nav System with Sony Sound package.

So, present thoughts are to drop the body of the 1961 onto the chassis of the 2012 and have a 1961 with the performance, and options of the 2012 lariat.

It would appear that hiding the interior electronics are going to be the biggest problems. I really do not want modern switches and digital controls on the dash. Perhaps I could use old 1961 ***** and mount the controls to look old school. Hide the environmental controls in the glove box???

Thoughts, suggestions appreciated. This project just got a little more complicated.