1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

On a 50 f1 is there any side to side adjustment on the radiator saddle?

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Old 09-17-2014, 08:11 PM
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On a 50 f1 is there any side to side adjustment on the radiator saddle?

My hood seems to be about 1/2" off center when it is closed, I have to fuss with it to get it to latch. It could be the grille header that is off. Any ways, I though that I may be able to move the radiator saddle over about 1/2" to compensate. Is that possible. Thanks for any and all input.
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:43 PM
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I don't believe an adjustment to the brace is possible. Are the inner fenders attached to the same holes on each side?
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:49 PM
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What is the condition of the cab mounts? Is the cab aligned on the frame?
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:06 PM
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Inner fenders seem to be properly located and cab mounts appear to be solid. From the looks of the inner fenders the truck has been hit pretty hard, I think on the pass. side. I replaced one inner fender and straightened the other. I think I will reassemble the front fenders,( not the ones that were on it) and grille and see where I am at after that. I just thought that if I could move the radiator saddle over 1'2" all would be good. thanks for the response.
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:10 PM
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Be sure to check the frame for being diamond shaped if the truck has been hit hard. You don't want it going down the road dog tracking.
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 09:38 PM
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Your saddle could be diamond'd too. Are the sides plumb / vertical?
 
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:40 AM
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Since the saddle is spring loaded and because the upper radiator hoses are several pieces make sure they are setup equal and not pulling down one side of the radiator.
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 03:24 PM
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I have a similar problem on my '50 F2. As I was disassembling things I found that the front cab mount bolts (4) had worn through their collared washers and elongated the frame mounting hole. You will have to remove those bolts and jack up the body (and probably do some cleaning) to see this clearly. If you don't check this and if you have this problem nothing that you can do will solve the problem as the cab will move around on the frame while driving. It will be a crap shoot if it settles back to the right spot.

An ⅛" elongation at the front cab mounts could easily translate to ½" all the way at the front go the hood.
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 03:45 PM
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Great post, Pete.
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 09:48 PM
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I have been in the process of installing new fiberglass fenders and new grill, everything is coming together pretty good. I think my hood is sprung and it is not the hood I am going to use. Tomorrow I will get the grill header bolted in permanently and then change the hood, so then I will know for sure what is going on. My frame is not diamond"d and my radiator saddle is ok. I'm glad I don't have the issues that Pete is dealing with.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Skalywag
I'm glad I don't have the issues that Pete is dealing with.
Are you sure? . Make sure that you check. Actually this won't be bad to fix with a few filler welds backed up with a copper plate before striking an arc.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by petemcl
Are you sure? . Make sure that you check. Actually this won't be bad to fix with a few filler welds backed up with a copper plate before striking an arc.
Ok Pete, my radiator shroud was diamond'd and letting my fenders sag on both sides. the PO cut the upper brace out and when I put my grille header in it lacked meeting the fenders by about a 1/4 inch on both sides. I pulled the shroud back together, put in a new brace , the fenders meet the grille header and the hood is closing at center. All is good on the home front, no rust in the lower cowl and the cab mounts are solid. So it is on to the next cluster , well you know what I'm talking about. The only thing that bugs me is the front inner fender being between the grille header and the upper fender, it doesn't make for a real tight fit.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 10:40 PM
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Pictures would help.
 
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