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The only issue I have is once the engine is at temp and I shut it off, it won't restart without giving it a little bit of gas.. Almost like initially it's starved for gas. I've got the electric choke setup on my Holley 4160 and it seems to work pretty good, but when the engine is at temp, the choke is wide open. Feel like I'm missing something.. I've got the idle air screws set to 1.5 turns out.. Any suggestions, or do I always have to press and release the gas pedal initially if starting the engine at temp?
Here's where I'm at so far.. Still dirty and dingy, but that'll be corrected soon! along with that crappy alternator mount.. AND, I'm going to be re-doing all the wiring. I've just got some wires temporarily done this way to get the engine set up..
Congrat's!! Such a good feeling. As for starting, it sounds like you have it a bit lean, which would be resolved with a squirt from the accelerator pump. Try turning the screws out 1/4 turn or so and see if that helps.
Congrat's!! Such a good feeling. As for starting, it sounds like you have it a bit lean, which would be resolved with a squirt from the accelerator pump. Try turning the screws out 1/4 turn or so and see if that helps.
Gary.. That's exactly what I did.. I was thinking the same thing. It actually idles better too! Who would've thought... lol..
What should the idle speed be in RPM? I don't have a tach, but am going to go down and get one..
There should be a sticker on the radiator support. Normally that will show ~600 RPM in gear. But, it is really up to you and what works for you. You want it low enough that it doesn't bang into gear and yet high enough that it handles the A/C ok when it comes on.
As for the idle mix, the 1 1/2 turns out is just for getting the engine started. Then you need to find max RPM, which can be done with a vacuum gauge, tach, or even by ear. And most will then turn it out ~1/4 turn from max RPM to fatten up the mix a bit to aid the starting.
There should be a sticker on the radiator support. Normally that will show ~600 RPM in gear. But, it is really up to you and what works for you. You want it low enough that it doesn't bang into gear and yet high enough that it handles the A/C ok when it comes on.
As for the idle mix, the 1 1/2 turns out is just for getting the engine started. Then you need to find max RPM, which can be done with a vacuum gauge, tach, or even by ear. And most will then turn it out ~1/4 turn from max RPM to fatten up the mix a bit to aid the starting.
The sticker isn't there anymore. I was hoping it was. The Light Truck Shop Manual set arrived yesterday so I'm sure I can find it in there. Thanks for your help again Gary!
Welcome. Mine says 625 in gear w/the A/C on, and 550 w/it off. Obviously that's with a throttle kicker solenoid. And, that's for a 351M or 400, so it might be more for a 302.
Actually took her for the first trip today to go fill up the gas tank. Just a few mile drive, but it was nice to actually see the truck go. I definitely need to get the shocks replaced. They aren't bad, just have the whole "70's Cadillac cloud ride".. Kinda bouncy but like I said.. not too bad.
I ended up replacing the heater core since that was the cause of a small coolant leak in the cab. That was pretty darn easy since I have the A/C version..
Still tweaking... I set the timing to about 16-18 before TDC which seems to be the sweet spot for this truck. Seems a bit hard to set timing as it jumps from 0 - 20 on the harmonic balancer within less than an inch when adjusting the distributor. Vacuum is perfect and rock steady.
I think I may have either the left rear or right rear brake drums sticking. Not sure. Seems like I've got a bit of resistance when taking off from idle. It's definitely not the parking brake and it may just be the way this truck is. I'm going to take it to the car wash tomorrow and power wash the underside of the truck including the rear brake drum areas.
I still don't have a working fuel level gauge. Is there an easy way to trouble shoot this?
To test the fuel level system, ground the wire going to the sender and watch the gauge. It should go to FULL with the wire grounded. Or, you can test the sending unit itself, which should show 12 ohms full and 72 ohms empty.
To test the fuel level system, ground the wire going to the sender and watch the gauge. It should go to FULL with the wire grounded. Or, you can test the sending unit itself, which should show 12 ohms full and 72 ohms empty.
Gary... you are always full of answers... thank god! I'll get back with you! Heading out to check a few things!
Ok.. I went out to remove the front bezel around the gauge cluster on the dash, but dumb question... how do I remove the light switch handle thingy so I can get that bezel off? The windshield wiper switch handle just pops right off, but I cannot get that light switch round handle thing that you pull to turn the lights on off...
Why do you need to take the bezel off? Go under the truck and pull the wire at the sending unit. But, in case you really do need to get the **** off I'll type those instructions in another post.
The headlight **** comes off two ways. First, there's a button on the headlight switch its self, although getting to the button is painful. Push that button and then pull the headlights to the on position and the **** and shaft should come out. But the lights will be on so either take the battery cable off or gently push the **** back in to turn the headlights off.
The other way is via a slot on the back of the ****. Use a hook of some kind, or maybe a small screwdriver, and press a little tab rearward. The little tab is on a springy plate that captures the shaft when allowed to spring forward at an angle. But if you push it backward it releases the shaft and the **** comes off. And if that doesn't make sense there are better instructions, inc a drawing, in the stickies.
Why do you need to take the bezel off? Go under the truck and pull the wire at the sending unit. But, in case you really do need to get the **** off I'll type those instructions in another post.
I was wanting to check the gauge. Make sure the wires are connected, etc.. Thought I'd check this first as it's dark and don't have good lighting..
I can't even see the sending unit. Is it on top of the gas tank?
Yes, it is on top of the tank. You won't be able to see it, but you should be able to feel it and then unplug the connector. Some years have two separate connectors - one a ground that goes to the frame and the other the wire from the gauge.
09-20-2014, 10:45 AM
