Mark's 52' F1 RestoMod Build
#1
Mark's 52' F1 RestoMod Build
I've been asked by many to document my 1952 Ford F1 RestoMod build. I'll keep updated this thread... so it may end up being a bit long.
Background on the Build Strategy:
The intent of this build is clearly a Resto Mod, with modifications being the key focus. I want a modern chassis, suspension, braking, steering, tires and comforts, but pretty much "look" like the original 52.
So, this truck won't be close to the original except the body. It will be a modern classis/suspension, the motor is a 351 Winsor. Since this truck will be my daily driver, my requirements to the engine builder (Brent Lykins, Lykins Motor Sports) were 87oct pump gas, max torque vs hp, good vacuum for power brakes, dual plane intake, and throttle body fuel injection. This engine build was in Modified Mustangs and Fords magazine, so one the of the "freebies" was a FAST EZ fuel injection system. The stroked 408 (351w) dyno'd out at 390HP and 460 ft lb of torque. This power plant will drive through a McLeod RST twin clutch, Tremec TKO 600 5spd manual trans with .64 overdrive and a Currie 9' posi track rear end. Power brakes, power rack and pinion steering and hydraulic driven clutch are part of the mix also. The F1 will also have air conditioning, power windows and my rear view mirror will have NSEW direction compass, outside temp, auto dim, and a backup camera. My gauges will be custom made and the speedo is GPS driven (giving me mph, 0-60 time, 1/4 mile time, altitude, compass heading, time of day, trip odometer and total miles). For the truck bed, I'll be fitting Wormy Maple with a super high gloss finish.
So, bottom line, a total custom truck with 62 year old sheet metal.
I'll start with a very good condition truck, flathead V8 and 3 on the tree.
The above pictures are of the truck as I bought it. Much better looking than is actually was. I had lots of work to do.
So, stay tuned and I'll start the updates. I've been working this project for awhile and have taken tons of pictures, learned a lot from this forum's members like all of you. Hopefully what I can share can help some of you as much as the help I've received.
Mark
#4
Taking it apart....
Here, my great friend Steve Ortiz and I start the piece by piece teardown. For the most part, the truck is very solid... but running boards, grill, fenders have lots of rust through.
The front clip come off after only removing 10 bolts.... we'll take each part off piece by piece.
Having a lift made for easy cab removal. It also reviled cowl bottom rust through.
I'll make a body buck for the cab with swivel wheels for easy moving around the shop.
Here's Steve (head down in the engine area) and a neighbor acting as a building inspector. Everyone loves an old car or truck project.
Just past the truck bed, back left, is the frame off my 68 Corvettem 427 big block, 4spd, I'm restoring. But since my 52 truck will be my daily driver, it's my current focus to complete
Not sure what I'll do with the dash... but do plan a lot of customization.... time will tell.
I'll sort through everything to determine what to keep and replace. Since I'm going with a new purpose built chassis, suspension, engine and drivetrain, I'll sell the old stuff.
Stay tuned. Comments and questions welcome. I love this stuff. Mark
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#8
Chassis and Suspension Kit
After much research, I went with Total Cost Involved (TCI) complete purpose built frame, chassis, suspension for my 52' F1. It took about 8 weeks from order to delivery. I was lucky to have had a landscaper with a forklift when it arrived to removed from delivery truck to my shop.
Everything from Currie Ford 9" rear end, front suspension, leaf springs, anti sway bars, etc. came in one package.
Nice welding and preinstalled ss brake lines were a big head start. I told TCI the engine and transmission I was using and the frame and motor mounts were built with that in mind.
Here's the frame after I cleaned and applied POR-15 and top coated with a dark silver spray paint. Below, Not forgetting the "inside" of the frame, I applied Eastwoods Internal Frame coating. I prevents rust.... I coated every sq inch and flipped the framed to help get the coating everywhere.
#9
When I saw that you were putting a new chassis under it, I was thinking you were going to do a frame swap that often times ends in failure. But the TCI setup, very nice! I'm really looking forward to watching your progress. You are going to have one sweet ride when you are done. Be sure to continue showing us lots of pictures.
As a side note; this picture makes it look like the front clip is about 10 feet long.
As a side note; this picture makes it look like the front clip is about 10 feet long.
#11
When I saw that you were putting a new chassis under it, I was thinking you were going to do a frame swap that often times ends in failure. But the TCI setup, very nice! I'm really looking forward to watching your progress. You are going to have one sweet ride when you are done. Be sure to continue showing us lots of pictures.
As a side note; this picture makes it look like the front clip is about 10 feet long.
As a side note; this picture makes it look like the front clip is about 10 feet long.
Mark
#12
Building the chassis and suspension
I'm doing a complete restomod, starting with a new frame and modern suspension and disc brakes.
Stroked 351w, 408ci, TFI, Tremec TKO600 5 spd, .64 od, dbl disc clutch
This is a shot of the clutch master cylinder and Power Back unit
Ford 9", 3.50 posi and air bags
Front suspension, rotors and brakes
I'll provide more pictures later... don't have much time today.
Mark
#15
AntiRust coating, Cab/dash prep
Here is the underside of my running boards. The "green stuff" is EastWoods internal frame coating to stop/prevent rust.
I applied the AntiRust coating in every seam and body cavity I could get to, including the cab's cowl, back corners, frame, A-Pillars, doors, i.e., everything.
I'm going to remove the original external door hinges and install internal hinges. I decided to go with Hagan's Auto Hidden Hinges. The quality is first rate with built-in door swing indents, stop pins and dome light switches. I first cleaned and then then treated them with phosphoric acid and zinc oxide. This treatment preps the metal for paint and leave a coating to help prevent rust.
Here you can see more detail of the hinges
In this shot, you'll see the "Plug" I'm making for my lower dash extension. From the plug, a fiberglass mold will be made and then from that, the fiberglass extension. I'll share those photos once I get it complete. I plan to install my A/C vents and heat/AC/fan switches in the extension. Not sure on gauges.... As I do plan on a center console and can install gauges there.
I built the plug from gluing 1x6 pine glued together and then started cutting, grinding and sanding. I used body filler for final block sanding. Classic-Haulers, www.classic-haulers.com , use to offer a sheetmetal one, but had to stop after builder passed. Beside, the sheetmetal one would have been straight/flat where my plug/mold will take the shape of the F-1's dash. Classic-Haulers will be selling the fiberglass dash extensions. My fiberglass guy will be making them for Classic-Haulers.
I'm installing custom made gauges. After I cut out the holes, the original dash design was too vertical and made the gauges hard to read.... So I cut out the entire area and will tilt it back.
Here's the piece I cut out and prepping before welding back in place, tilted back from the top.
It's still very rough and needs a lot more welding and clean up. The body work will make it look great.
Well, that's it for this week.... stay tuned.
Mark