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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Mark's 52' F1 RestoMod Build

 
  #31  
Old 10-26-2014, 09:42 AM
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Hidden Hinge part 2 and Door Modifications

The door part of installing the hidden hinges are more challenging. The two key factors are: #1 the door is more confining and has to be installed and removed several times during the install process and #2 Consideration and awareness of other door modifications, e.g., electric locks and windows, removing vent windows and association hardware, installing single glass windows and new window channels, removing original door latches and installing new bear claw style with electric locks and pull/push inside door lock mechanisms, and wire-ways from A-Pillars through front door sides.




This shot shows the A-Pillar upper original hinge attachment point. I first added sheet metal to fill the screw hole part then laid and welded the outside to fill the old hinge mounting points. I did the same for the bottom.



Here, I'll adding the base sheet metal to the old door hinge mounting point and welded in place



Then added the top door skin and folded over the base piece I installed above. Once welded in place, ground smooth to ready for body work.



This picture shows the hidden hinge door pocket attached to the swing arm. Then I hung the door, aligned it and then traced the pocket's location relative to the door with a felt-point magic marker.



This shot shows the door cut out and the pocket setting in place ready to be tack welded to the the inter door panel.



Here you see the pocket welded in place, excess pocket metal that protruded cut away and ground flush.



Here's an inside the door panel, looking forward. You can see the upper hidden hinge pocket just installed and the new forward window channel. The window channel will be welded at three points. 1) the top to the existing window channel, 2) the middle to the hinge pocket (I'll do this by drilling a hole through the pocket above the window channel, then welding from the channel to the pocket and grinding flush and 3) the bottom of the channel to the door side.



After all door work was complete, I coated all door internals with Eastwood's Internal frame coating (green).



Finally, the door rehung for final fitting.

More later.
Mark
 
  #32  
Old 10-26-2014, 10:04 AM
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Wow. Impressive just doesn't seem to cut it. And a BOSS in the garage too? I'm still trying to figure out how to hang my mud flaps. Great work!
Mike
 
  #33  
Old 10-26-2014, 10:14 AM
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UPDATE: The BOSS sold!!

Mike, thanks for the nice comments. BTW, the BOSS 529 I just completed and it's for sale: link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-BOSS-429-BOSS-529-BOSS-429-529-cu-in-Calypso-Coral-Fastback-Pro-Touring-Kaase-engine-/271643871306?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3f3f3c884a&item=271643871306&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Mark
 
  #34  
Old 10-26-2014, 10:27 AM
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Outstanding work Mark.
 
  #35  
Old 10-27-2014, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by topmoo View Post
Outstanding work Mark.
Thank You Sir.

Mark
 
  #36  
Old 10-27-2014, 06:22 AM
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top notch work!
 
  #37  
Old 10-28-2014, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by christurney77 View Post
top notch work!
Thanks much Chris!


Mark
 
  #38  
Old 10-28-2014, 09:04 PM
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AWESOME TRUCK!
 
  #39  
Old 11-08-2014, 06:03 AM
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Fluids, Oil, Coolant and A/C prep.

My focus on this update, are the engine area fluids, heater hoses/filters, oil and A/C.




Above, I'm installing Classic Air system. The hot water and AC lines go out the cowl side and up under the right wheel well.



I decided to install a coolant filter... mostly because I had it and decided to use it. I just put a "T" fitting in both the output side from the intake and the return to the water pump. Even if I'm not using the heater, the coolant will still flow continuously through the filter.



I mounted the A/C condenser to the radiator side attachments.. next photo shows more detail. Note below the A/C condenser is the oil cooler/radiator. The cooler mounts to the frame cross member bottom and top mounts to the front valance.



Using stainless still bolts and spacers, the condenser is very secure. I also used nylon grip nuts.



I decided to install a remote oil filter, oil thermostat and oil cooler. Living in the south, having extra cooling, if needed, can't hurt. The importance of the oil thermostat is to ensure the oil gets hot enough to burn off any moisture that might be in the oil. If the oil gets hot enough, the thermostat opens and oil flows through the oil cooler/radiator. This shot is from under the front looking toward the engine. The thermostat is mounted to the frame that the radiator support mounted to. The Oil cooler is in the foreground.



This shot shows the remote oil filter mount, left fender apron behind the radiator. I can remove oil filter without oil dripping from front suspension parts. Another advantage of adding the remote oil filter, thermostat, cooler and all the AN10 braided ss hoses is adding more oil to the oil system. I figure I'm adding an additional quart of oil, which gives better cooling and oil life.



Wanting to keep my engine bay "clean looking", I decided to mount the battery under the cab, right side on the frame inside rail. This shot is the mounted battery box in the "open/ down" position. The box is very well made of stainless steel.



The battery installed and in the "up" position. To the left of the battery, is the "fine" mesh 10 micron fuel filter. Down stream is the electric fuel pump preceded by a coarse 100 micron fuel filter. On either side of the filters are ball type on/off valves.

Stay tune... more to follow.
Mark
 
  #40  
Old 11-15-2014, 06:52 AM
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Exhaust mock-up and tack welded

I bought Flowmaster 3" stainless steel exhaust pipe kit and two Magnaflow ss 3" mufflers. I also bought a pre-made MagnaFlow ss X-pipe.



This shot shows ss header collectors looking to rear of truck. I've tack welded each piece as I fitted it. I'm also using ss .023 weld wire as I do this.



Here's a closeup of the ss X-pipe from MagnaFlow. Since my engine has an EZ FAST TBFI, I drilled a hole in the top of the X-pipe and welded in the OX Sensor bung. I chose this location vs the header collector to sample the exhaust from all 8 cylinders.



This is the right rear. I had several obstacles to get around, e.g., Leaf spring, rear gas tank and air bags. I could have gone up and over the rear axles, but with the shocks, air bars, etc. I went under the axles. The primary reason was the air bags... i.e., my concern was the bags under pressure and therefore larger diameter, the bag would be too close to the exhaust pipes and risk heat damage/blowout.



This shot from the left rear.



Another closeup of the X-Pipe looking forward.



The whole exhaust system is one piece and easy to drop out if needed. I hung with 4 SS hooks and rubber donuts. I'll add heat shields where needed and will show those pictures later. Now I just need to weld up the entire exhaust system and re-hang it.

Mark
 
  #41  
Old 11-15-2014, 07:39 AM
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Wow that looks great. Now, I know little to nothing about exhaust, could you educate me?
So what is the X-pipe for?
It looks really cool, but I would think it would restrict exhaust flow slightly with the exhaust from the two pipes meeting. It does offer a great place for an O2 sensor.

By the way, fantastic work. Keep the updates coming.
 
  #42  
Old 11-15-2014, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Harrier View Post
Wow that looks great. Now, I know little to nothing about exhaust, could you educate me?
So what is the X-pipe for?
It looks really cool, but I would think it would restrict exhaust flow slightly with the exhaust from the two pipes meeting. It does offer a great place for an O2 sensor.

By the way, fantastic work. Keep the updates coming.
Thanks Harrier!!

An H or X-Pipe is better for the exhaust vs straight pipes.
Here's a copy/paste from one site:
Why an X-Pipe?
An X-Pipe is, you guessed it, shaped like an x, and allows the exhaust to flow down the path of least resistance. At lower revs, turbulence is formed as exhaust gases try to shuffle past a second column of gases coming from the other side. While always producing more power than the restrictive factory system, the potential gains are not seen until higher rpms are reached. This is where an X-Pipe stands apart from the rest. Exhaust gas is pushed out harder as the engine spins faster. The X-Pipe merges this chaos into two uniform streams, allowing a smooth flow from engine to tailpipe.

Both streams keep each other up to speed, which draws even more spent exhaust out the cylinders. Magnaflow X-Pipes provide a boost in horsepower and a higher tone akin to an exotic car.

Why an H-Pipe?
An H-Pipe is also shaped like its namesake and relies on exhaust expansion to balance the cylinder banks. A small section of tubing in between the main pipes provides an area for gases to expand into during exhaust pulses. Only a small amount of exhaust flows from one stream to the other as both sides push back and forth in the center section. Flowmaster H-Pipes feature low restriction, so gains in performance are noticed from low rpm and give the exhaust a deeper, muscle car-like tone.

While both X and H pipes serve the same purpose, they use different methods to build power and economy, all while providing a distinctive sound. Think of an X-Pipe as being at home in a high-winding modern V6 or V8 while an H-Pipe conjures memories of tire-shredding torque in classic American iron.

An X-pipe's supposed advantage is that because the bends are smoother at the convergence, the flow and scavenging are both better, and hence the X-pipe is worth more power.
 
  #43  
Old 11-15-2014, 02:30 PM
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Most V8s do not fire symetrically, i.e. alternating left bank right bank, so the X or H pipe balances the pulses or waves between the two mufflers and tailpipes creating a more efficient flow..
 
  #44  
Old 11-15-2014, 05:24 PM
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Cool thanks Mark and AX, I appreciate the lesson. It was very informative.
 
  #45  
Old 11-16-2014, 06:26 AM
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Heat shielding and OX Sensor

After the exhaust was installed I added Heat Shielding. The heat shielding will greatly help with preventing a lot of heat going into the cab. In the cab, I'll dynamat, then stick on heat shield and followed my factory style wool/foil underlayment and carpet. Heat and noise will greatly be reduced.



Here, in the shot above, I added two layers of heat shielding over the X-Pipe to help protect the rear of the transmission, Master Cylinder/pwr brake booster and battery area. I also added heat shield to the outside of the battery box. Also, to the right of the drive shaft, you can clearly seen the OX Sensor.



The left header/exhaust pipe was heavily shielded to protect the brake lines, clutch slave cylinder and clutch line.



On the right side, I added heat shielding to the pipes and electric cables
 

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