Y-Block Dual Exhaust
#32
#33
Headers http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Y-BLOCK-TRUCK-HEADERS-PATRIOT-8422-/201148571715?vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=bQF1fYq8ytK%252BoFiDg%252BXgdhH8CE0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Mufflers http://www.ebay.com/itm/200958177736?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I did 2.5" center in/center out. You could go smaller though, and the in/out orientation was just a guess for what would be easiest to mount and it seems to have worked out ok.
#34
Noticed the eBay link for the headers were a good price, and "free shipping". They don't fit in a priority box I'm thinkin'. You got a good deal.
So I buy a set of these headers, a good muffler shop will take me the rest of the way? I like those glass packs and heavy pipe. They'll do that fer me?
So I buy a set of these headers, a good muffler shop will take me the rest of the way? I like those glass packs and heavy pipe. They'll do that fer me?
#35
Noticed the eBay link for the headers were a good price, and "free shipping". They don't fit in a priority box I'm thinkin'. You got a good deal.
So I buy a set of these headers, a good muffler shop will take me the rest of the way? I like those glass packs and heavy pipe. They'll do that fer me?
So I buy a set of these headers, a good muffler shop will take me the rest of the way? I like those glass packs and heavy pipe. They'll do that fer me?
I'm no master mechanic and I did mine myself on my back in my gravel driveway. All told it was probably 4 hours of actual work (plus a bunch of running back and fourth to the parts store for hangers and whatnot). Maybe less, but I was doing it an hour or two at a time after work before it got dark. The only thing I did that you may need help with was welding the collars to the first section of tube, but I don't even think that's 100% necessary. If you did an H or X pipe you would probably need to do some welding, but I suspect there's one out there somewhere that would bolt in.
#39
For anyone interested in doing a dual exhaust like this, I believe I do need an H-pipe. It's fine around town, but decelerating on the highway leads to a lot of deep "pops" and grunts, which is what I was warned about.
I still don't have tail pipes on it, so I'll wait and see if those make a difference (can't imagine they will), but it looks like I have more work to do!
I still don't have tail pipes on it, so I'll wait and see if those make a difference (can't imagine they will), but it looks like I have more work to do!
#40
An H-pipe will help to get rid of the “back-rap” that you are experiencing on deceleration and will create a deeper, mellower tone both inside and outside of the vehicle by equalizing the exhaust pulses between both banks of the engine. More than likely you will also gain some torque in the low to mid rpm range. I highly recommend it!
#43
#44
Smithy's
heard these sound great on Y blocks...cheap too
Smithys Glasspack Muffler, 22 Inch Body, 2 Inch Inlet/Outlet - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Smithys Glasspack Muffler, 22 Inch Body, 2 Inch Inlet/Outlet - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
These are exactly what I just put on my 1960 F100. Tailpipes extend almost to the rear bumper and there's none of that rapping sound both hard on the gas or under deceleration.
http://s913.photobucket.com/user/mon..._2293.mp4.html
http://s913.photobucket.com/user/mon..._2288.mp4.html
Hope my links work... First time I ever attached video... One is sound at idle. The other is how the tailpipes are run. They're short.
Nick in WI
Last edited by montego69; 10-01-2014 at 02:39 PM. Reason: fixed links i think...