'03 6.0 Excursion runs rough throws EGR code after an EGR delete?
#1
'03 6.0 Excursion runs rough throws EGR code after an EGR delete?
Have been fighting this truck two weekends in a row, with big hands the Y-pipe exhaust lower manifold bolts are a PAIN to get to!
OK Here is the skinny:
Early (May I think) 2003 stock Excursion with 6.0 and 133,400 miles. Daily driver and towing a boat occasionally. I have no no tuner, exhaust, nothing.
Running synthetic 5W40 oil, just changed oil and fuel filters, added Rev-X oil additive, did EGR delete using River City Diesel kit.
Outcome? - Engine running rough as a cob like two sumo wrestlers pushing on each side of the truck, low power, and after getting codes scanned at AutoZone I have this:
PO273 Cylinder 5 injector circuit low
PO267 Cylinder 3 injector circuit low
PO269 Injector 3 contribution balance fault
PO403 EGR system fault
PO405 EGR voltage low
I thought the 03 was not supposed to throw a code???? Am I doomed to auner now???
I have triple checked the following:
*FICM connections and voltage is 47+ at all stages
*Each injector harness is secure with the little wire clasp holding it in place like it's supposed to.
*No exhaust leaks, I listened with a tube and funnel taped together to my ear. (Did have a leak on at Y-pipe originally but loosened everything, aligned correct and fixed it)
All connectors in place, intercooler tubes on correctly, air filter good. There are no fuel, coolant or oil leaks anywhere.
The only other mods to this truck is the blue spring fuel pressure mod. Everything else bone stock. I am running the EGR valve in place instead of the block off plate, and the EGR valve is unplugged - Is that the cause?
I am preparing to spend my labor day weekend taking EVERYTHING back off, refurbish the turbo vanes, and put it all back together to see if there something I missed somewhere.
The only other issues the truck has is towing the boat, on slow inclines the engine will buck/cough black smoke from the tailpipe until I accelerate and it goues down one gear range on the tranny. I can delay the coughing by accelerating slowly and then coast a bit but if I don't watch it, I'm rolling coal on everyone lse behind me lol.
Is there a smartphone app with bluetooth OBDII dongle to look at cylinder contribution?
Any other suggestions to guide me are very welcomed, thanks for reading. Have a good labor Day!
OK Here is the skinny:
Early (May I think) 2003 stock Excursion with 6.0 and 133,400 miles. Daily driver and towing a boat occasionally. I have no no tuner, exhaust, nothing.
Running synthetic 5W40 oil, just changed oil and fuel filters, added Rev-X oil additive, did EGR delete using River City Diesel kit.
Outcome? - Engine running rough as a cob like two sumo wrestlers pushing on each side of the truck, low power, and after getting codes scanned at AutoZone I have this:
PO273 Cylinder 5 injector circuit low
PO267 Cylinder 3 injector circuit low
PO269 Injector 3 contribution balance fault
PO403 EGR system fault
PO405 EGR voltage low
I thought the 03 was not supposed to throw a code???? Am I doomed to auner now???
I have triple checked the following:
*FICM connections and voltage is 47+ at all stages
*Each injector harness is secure with the little wire clasp holding it in place like it's supposed to.
*No exhaust leaks, I listened with a tube and funnel taped together to my ear. (Did have a leak on at Y-pipe originally but loosened everything, aligned correct and fixed it)
All connectors in place, intercooler tubes on correctly, air filter good. There are no fuel, coolant or oil leaks anywhere.
The only other mods to this truck is the blue spring fuel pressure mod. Everything else bone stock. I am running the EGR valve in place instead of the block off plate, and the EGR valve is unplugged - Is that the cause?
I am preparing to spend my labor day weekend taking EVERYTHING back off, refurbish the turbo vanes, and put it all back together to see if there something I missed somewhere.
The only other issues the truck has is towing the boat, on slow inclines the engine will buck/cough black smoke from the tailpipe until I accelerate and it goues down one gear range on the tranny. I can delay the coughing by accelerating slowly and then coast a bit but if I don't watch it, I'm rolling coal on everyone lse behind me lol.
Is there a smartphone app with bluetooth OBDII dongle to look at cylinder contribution?
Any other suggestions to guide me are very welcomed, thanks for reading. Have a good labor Day!
#3
I had it unplugged but will plug it back in. I was told by several sources and reading here the early 03 would not throw a code. Maybe having it unplugged was the issue. Pulling FICM today will check connections again.
I am going through all the delete components again today and will also clean/check the turbo vanes while I have it off.
Thanks
I am going through all the delete components again today and will also clean/check the turbo vanes while I have it off.
Thanks
#4
you MUST plug in the EGR valve to help keep it happy
you must have different PCM Programing then my 03 I can unplug the egr valve and get NO DTC but its plugged in anyways your 03 must not be early enough mines a Build date of(Check my Sig below for born on date) I ran for awhile egr unplugged but the Fan wasn't working correctly
Your PCm probably got Flashed somewhere along the way. They seam to just do it sometimes when theres work done at a Dealer. I avoid them places like the Plague just so I don't get a PCM Program that's going to throw a DTC for a deleate
what type EGR Deleate is it or HOW is it deleated??
make sure FICM Fully pluged in if you haven't already and did you get the FICM Ground loop back onto the intake manifold stud??
Did you have these DTC Prior to the work?? or any these problems prior
If so you may have a Bad FICM
you must have different PCM Programing then my 03 I can unplug the egr valve and get NO DTC but its plugged in anyways your 03 must not be early enough mines a Build date of(Check my Sig below for born on date) I ran for awhile egr unplugged but the Fan wasn't working correctly
Your PCm probably got Flashed somewhere along the way. They seam to just do it sometimes when theres work done at a Dealer. I avoid them places like the Plague just so I don't get a PCM Program that's going to throw a DTC for a deleate
what type EGR Deleate is it or HOW is it deleated??
make sure FICM Fully pluged in if you haven't already and did you get the FICM Ground loop back onto the intake manifold stud??
Did you have these DTC Prior to the work?? or any these problems prior
If so you may have a Bad FICM
#5
Blade
It is the delete where you bypass the egr cooler, remove it and install the straight up pipe. I did not have the egr code prior to the delete and I left the egr valve in place in case a visual is needed for inspection.
Just reinstalled the FICM had 2 connectors with broken release tabs. All the pins looked good so I have several cable ties and a few dabs of silicone holding them tight to it.
I did have the ground wire installed correctly also.
That may have been the problem we'll see when I fire it up later this evening.
All injector connections are secure, no chafed wiring.
Pulled turbo and refurbished the vanes and unison ring. Some wear but it cleaned up good and is back home in the center of the engine.
Next are the hateful exhaust manifold bolts and other bits then testing.
Thanks for the advice hopefully it will run better and no codes.
It is the delete where you bypass the egr cooler, remove it and install the straight up pipe. I did not have the egr code prior to the delete and I left the egr valve in place in case a visual is needed for inspection.
Just reinstalled the FICM had 2 connectors with broken release tabs. All the pins looked good so I have several cable ties and a few dabs of silicone holding them tight to it.
I did have the ground wire installed correctly also.
That may have been the problem we'll see when I fire it up later this evening.
All injector connections are secure, no chafed wiring.
Pulled turbo and refurbished the vanes and unison ring. Some wear but it cleaned up good and is back home in the center of the engine.
Next are the hateful exhaust manifold bolts and other bits then testing.
Thanks for the advice hopefully it will run better and no codes.
#6
Success!
I am concluding it was the FICM connections, that is the only thing I could find different when I went back through everything again. Like I said two of the three tab locks were broken so I seated them and used some cable ties to secure them in place. Then I dabbed silicone on the connector to housing for insurance.
Test drive she did great seems to have a bit more power than before and a lil turbo whistle
Thanks for the weekend replies I appreciate it.
I am concluding it was the FICM connections, that is the only thing I could find different when I went back through everything again. Like I said two of the three tab locks were broken so I seated them and used some cable ties to secure them in place. Then I dabbed silicone on the connector to housing for insurance.
Test drive she did great seems to have a bit more power than before and a lil turbo whistle
Thanks for the weekend replies I appreciate it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post