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Re-building a wrecked F-150: bent frame

 
  #571  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:54 AM
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Nicely done, as always Frank. I would have gone with rear discs, but then you're out an e-brake cable.

Great work on the drums. Locked and loaded.
 
  #572  
Old 07-10-2018, 12:54 PM
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With half ton style trucks your usually better off going with drum brakes on the rear end as the back half of the truck is so light. If your truck is carrying a load or pulling a trailer more than half the time that your driving it, then you should start considering going to disc brakes. Whether or not you go to a hydroboost system or stick with the vacumn system is a can of worms subject and is best left to the discretion of the truck builder.
 
  #573  
Old 07-11-2018, 03:46 PM
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Rear Axle: Clean, Paint & Measure for New Axles etc.

The Ford 9-inch rear axle found under 1974-1986 F-150s and 1978-1986 Broncos features legendary strength, the 5-on-5.5 lug pattern (same as older Jeep), a 65-inch width at the wheel mounting surfaces, large-bearing semi-floating axles and many can be found with hefty 31-spline axle shafts. Another bonus is that the axle shafts are of equal length.
Here, I disassemble, clean and paint the rear axle housing while taking measurements that will be used to order a new third member and axles.



As expected, the rear axle assembly was thoroughly encrusted with oil and dirt. Cleaning all these parts was a nasty job.



A second wire bushing and wipe down with lacquer thinner readies the housing for paint.



Here is the back side.



This housing end is the Big Ford - Old Style which is one of three possibilities. The other two are Small Ford and Big Ford - New Style.



The Big Ford - Old Style housing ends are designed for large-bearing semi-floating bearings as shown here.



Although I plan to replace the axles and center section later on Iíve painted the old stuff to look decent while I am prototyping the exhaust system and getting any fitment issues resolved ahead of that time.



Satin Canyon Black on the housing will match the frame.



The old center section is in place. There its not a lot of slop between the studs in the housing and the holes on the third member so one has to take care to keep it parallel to the housing during install.



I assembled the drum brakes (see previous post for details) and attached them and the axles to the housing.



The original drums were in very good shape so didnít need to be turned down this time around. A little wire brushing and paint was all that was needed.



Mounting the wheels and placing them onto the dollies is the last step before attaching the rear axles to the springs. When the new center section and axles arrive in August, I will need to decide whether to install them while the housing is still attached to the chassis or remove it again in order to use the more convenient workbench.



Iíll be purchasing the new components from Currie Enterprises via Summit which will be less expensive than buying directly from Currie. Free shipping. Iíve been saving for some time now but needed to defer a bit longer in order to have sufficient funds. The axles will be the CE-0012 Performance Custom Axle Package and the center section will be the 9TT370S 9Ē unit (nodular Iron, 31-Spline Axle, 3.70:1 Ratio, Detroit Truetrac).

Key to getting the right parts is providing the data that Currie requires. Doing this accurately can be quite a challenge because measuring in a straight line requires some special tools. I used a couple of those magnetic tool holders on the axle flanges to get the Y, X, A, B and PO values. I also used a large divider to get the distance between Y and X (10Ē) which was helpful in cross checking some measurements (e.g. B = Y+X+10Ē and A = B +2(BS + DR) and so on). Brake Space (BS) is tricky because one has to measure with the axle installed. The backing plate precludes measuring to the flange so one has to know that the backing plate is 0.125 thick and add that number to the measured value.


Identifying the housing end is relatively straightforward with basic measurement tools. The check mark indicates the type of housing end on my axle. The half inch bolts made this ID a cinch.


I used dividers to confirm the bolt circle and a digital caliper for everything else. The 5 X 5.5 bolt circle on our trucks is apparently not widely known. One of the Currie folks I corresponded with tried to convince me that I was in error on that point. He also thought that the axle lengths would be different L to R and that just isnít so. I measured 32Ē but Iíve seen others say that the length is 31-15/16. This difference shouldnít matter much but it does point out that measuring precisely is tricky business.


So if Iíve done my homework correctly, I should get parts that I can simply bolt in, add 2-3 quarts of gear oil and call it done. We shall see.



In the meantime, I have reattached the rear axle to the springs so that CalTrack and other measurements can be taken. I may also be able to make some more progress on the exhaust system which will need to be routed over the rear axle in order to exit just under the rear bumper.



If I opt for CalTracks, the aux spring will have to go. I have already deleted the short, fat spring at the bottom of the main spring pack that was a part of this option.



The CalTrack kit will use square U-bolts and will retain the stock axle position (under springs). They have another, different kit for those who have done an axle flip where the axle is above the spring.
 
  #574  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:05 AM
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Any updates on this project Frank? Also, I'm very interested in your F100 project. When do you think you will be starting on that?
 
  #575  
Old 12-07-2018, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1985 Bronco View Post
Any updates on this project Frank? Also, I'm very interested in your F100 project. When do you think you will be starting on that?
Unfortunately I have been unable to do anything but buy a few parts. I've been stuck in Florida on pressing family business since the beginning of August. I may even have to relocate here from middle Georgia. That would require building a new shop and hauling all or most of the stuff I've collected in 30 years but family comes first.
 
  #576  
Old 12-07-2018, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by flowney View Post
Unfortunately I have been unable to do anything but buy a few parts. I've been stuck in Florida on pressing family business since the beginning of August. I may even have to relocate here from middle Georgia. That would require building a new shop and hauling all or most of the stuff I've collected in 30 years but family comes first.
Your totally right about family coming first, I do not get to work on my trucks as often as I would like due to taking care of my mom who is now 92.
 
  #577  
Old 12-07-2018, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by flowney View Post
Unfortunately I have been unable to do anything but buy a few parts. I've been stuck in Florida on pressing family business since the beginning of August. I may even have to relocate here from middle Georgia. That would require building a new shop and hauling all or most of the stuff I've collected in 30 years but family comes first.
However one more thing I might mention, FLORIDA is Hurricane Country, best to move everyone up to Georgia.
 
  #578  
Old 12-08-2018, 08:51 AM
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Frank,
Wishing you the best with family issues. It took me the better part of two days to look at your restoration photographs and read the posts. Just a awesome, and VERY detailed job you have done on your white and light blue Ford Truck! My eyes can see it but my brain just doesnt go to that level of detail. You at least have the truck so you can roll it if you have to move it. I cant imagine moving all that stuff, but I know you can do it.
Regards,
Chris
 
  #579  
Old 12-10-2018, 07:42 PM
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I am humbled by your dedication sir!!! Makes my little attempts to upgrade seem miniscule!!

I hope it all works out for you and your family. I await your next post!!!
 
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:16 PM
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Thanks for all the kind words. I am working on various schemes that will enable me to be with Zelda (the '76 F-150) from time to time. I'll be sure to document whatever I am able to accomplish if and when that happens. In the meantime, I continue to mentally work on her.
 
  #581  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:22 AM
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Flowney what were the issues people have had with the original rocker setup you had? I'm wanting to do a budget 390 build and don't want to drop a grand on rockers with a bigger than mild cam and edelbrock heads. Were they pro comp you say?
 
  #582  
Old 02-12-2019, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by hivoltj View Post
Flowney what were the issues people have had with the original rocker setup you had? I'm wanting to do a budget 390 build and don't want to drop a grand on rockers with a bigger than mild cam and edelbrock heads. Were they pro comp you say?
See the short answer in BOLD TEXT and the long answer as follows: In my case (decked 447 stroker), going with high end roller rockers was appropriate because of the Edelbrock top end kit I used. I want to get all of the power that kit makes possible without breaking right away. The cam in that package has valve lift at 0.572 int./0.572 exh. Anything over 0.50 will stress the stock rocker stands and eventually break the unsupported ends. There are a number of solutions to this, including new rocker stands that have better support. You can read more about that here.
The other factor to consider is related to the fact that FEs use a use a single shaft-mounted rocker assembly per cylinder head and are non-adjustable (except exotic 427 models). Thus, setting up the heads requires giving special attention to the height of the valves where they come into contact with the rocker arm. This needs to be uniform across all the valves on each cylinder head. Edelbrock ships their aluminum FE heads with this all taken care of. Still, I took the time to confirm it just to be sure.
So, a stock 390 using a cam with less than 0.50" lift should do fine with the stock rocker stands and non-adjustable rockers if the valve job was done correctly with same height valves. Adding a higher lift cam with commensurately stronger valve springs will require new, improved rocker stands. That can be sufficient unless you plan on tuning for max power.
Initially, I purchased the cheap ProComp roller rockers for FE and even installed them. The rocker stands in this kit are better than stock but feedback from folks on the FE Forum suggested that the rollers will disintegrate and send needle bearings throughout the engine. Thus, I turned to the more expensive Harland Sharp kit for the FE. Note the bronze bushings (no needle bearings) which is better for street/strip. This also required ordering custom length pushrods.

I hope that this helps a little.
 
 
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