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Well since I actually got a 66 now i can start a build, Will be slow build but i do plan on ordering some stuff this week. Also have a 67 mustang project, MMA, and all sorts of stuff so time is at a premium for me
The Good:
Disc Brakes
Power Steering
Optima Battery
Pasat 5 way leather seats
Weird Header liner
New Weather Stripping on windshields
New Looking Cluster
All Electrical Works
New Tires
New Bushings
Drives Great
Rebuilt Engine that runs great
New Carb
New Voltage Regulator
New fuel lines
The Bad: Needs new door lock (No keys)Front Cab supports are bad but have heavy metal welded in place to hold them.
Floor pans were replaced but old rust wasnt removed
Shift Linkage is backwards and homemade (Welded together rods extension)
Core support pretty rusty
Rear Bumper weird and bent
Exhaust manifold has a leak
Windshield Washer may or may not work. Its not hooked up
The vent windows wont open. One seems to be because of the rubber and the others hinge is broke off
Ton of mirror holes
The Plan:
Fix the cab supports and floor panels
Fix minor dings and sand off the rust
Paint Satin Black
New Tailgate maybe
New Bumper (Maybe rollpan)
Fix Leaks
Fix Vent Windows
Some Custom Touches
Drive and Enjoy
What Vendors do you guys recommend for Sheet Metal?
Oh yeah and the shift linkage is upside down. 1st is all the way up and to the right..kinda weird but they called it a theft deterrent
Well since I actually got a 66 now i can start a build, Will be slow build but I do plan on ordering some stuff this week. Also have a 67 mustang project, MMA, and all sorts of stuff so time is at a premium for me
Decent truck, looks like it has lots of potential, but based on your plan, I'll share my experiences that may help them out.
The Good:
Disc Brakes
Power Steering
Optima Battery
Pasat 5 way leather seats - Nice. Weird Header liner
New Weather Stripping on windshields
New Looking Cluster
All Electrical Works
New Tires
New Bushings
Drives Great
Rebuilt Engine that runs great
New Carb
New Voltage Regulator
New fuel lines
All good.
The Bad: Needs new door lock (No keys)No biggie.
Front Cab supports are bad but have heavy metal welded in place to hold them. This will be a major endeavor as it means the cab will need to be removed, or at least jacked way up. Everyone I knew that attempted to replace the cab mounts from underneath eventually removed the cab entirely, and wished they had started out that way.
Floor pans were replaced but old rust wasn't removed Best replaced with the cab removed. I purchased a rust free cab from Arizona, and it saved me a lot of trouble.
Shift Linkage is backwards and homemade (Welded together rods extension) - I would first confirm the original transmission is still there, and wasn't replaced with one that uses a different linkage. That Ford 3.03 3-speed transmission is very common, used up into the '70s. I am sure you can find the correct linkage either way. Or, a previous owner got it mixed up. .
Core support pretty rusty If you mean cancer rust, then this will be a major endeavor as it means complete disassembly of the front clip - with busted jam nuts in difficult to reach places (per your description of the cab mounts). Do not allow it to get so far that the front clip collapses on you one day out on the road.
When you go to purchase a core support, please be careful to confirm which models it fits. DONT RELY ON A SALES CLERK. They will only read back to you what the catalogue says. There are different ones for different styles, and there has been a good amount of confusion by the repop manufacturers as to which fits which.
For F-100s:
'61 - '64
'65
'66
All are different. Some can be modified to fit other years more easily than others. Warning: The 4x4 models are also different, but I do not have accurate exchange information at hand. Others can chime in with more information but don't get the 4x4 core supports with 2x4 - I know there for awhile at least one vendor did.
Rear Bumper weird and bent
Exhaust manifold has a leak
Windshield Washer may or may not work. Its not hooked up Your "horn" button on the dash above the ignition key is the normal location for the washer pump. Economy trucks came with a rubber foot pump. The washer pump was installed below the washer bag, and I think I see one of the mounting holes in the inner fender.
The vent windows wont open. One seems to be because of the rubber and the others hinge is broke off
Ton of mirror holes
The Plan:
Fix the cab supports and floor panels This is where you will spend most of yourtime and frustration - but the end result for these beautiful trucks is well worth it.
Fix minor dings and sand off the rust
Paint Satin Black
New Tailgate maybe
New Bumper (Maybe rollpan)
Fix Leaks
Fix Vent Windows
Some Custom Touches
Drive and Enjoy - The best part!
What Vendors do you guys recommend for Sheet Metal?
Dennis Carpenter and Carolina Classics are among the best. Highly recommended, and some of the other vendors buy from them to sell to you.
Also recommend Tom's Flashback F-100s.
Oh yeah and the shift linkage is upside down. 1st is all the way up and to the right..kinda weird but they called it a theft deterrent
This is the one I have known for more than twenty years: Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts
And, Ricky not only has a great business but gives awesome service.
One of the few that sells '65-'66 body trim, for example.
WITH the clips.
He often picks up the phone himself - and knows Ford trucks.
Especially classic Ford trucks, '48-'79.
Exclusively Ford trucks.
No Chevy or Dodge.
Thanks for the info guys. Ive done rust repair before and yeah it will be an adventure as always. Ive got a 67 Mustang ive replaced all the floors in. Had a 78 GMC C1500 i replaced all the floor, floor supports, rockers, cab corners, and various other pieces.
I will more then likely try the jacked up method. The shifter linkage is screwy because i assume they didnt want to drop the trans to put the floor mount in. Its on the side of the tunnel almost and further back. So they used the linkage rods welded together to extend them.
I just placed an order from Carolina Classics and Dennis Carpenter.
I have new fuel sending float
Cab Mounts and Floor Panels on the way
Also bought a key set (Ignitiion and Doors) off ebay.
Im about to do a vin decode and find out all the stock stuff.
<table id="vin-data"><tbody><tr class="result"><td class="title">Series Code</td><th class="code">F10</th><td class="explain">F-100 (2 Wheel Drive)</td></tr><tr class="result"><td class="title">Engine Code</td><th class="code">A</th><td class="explain">240 CID 1v (150 HP @ 4400 RPM)</td></tr><tr class="result"><td class="title">Assembly Plant</td><th class="code">K</th><td class="explain">Kansas City, MO</td></tr><tr class="result"><td class="title">Consecutive Unit Number</td><th class="code">874889</th><td class="explain">Aug 1965</td></tr></tbody></table>
On a separate topic, I recommend you cross check the VIN off the frame with the title.
Often, the doors got changed on these old trucks, but the original Warranty Plate got left behind.
The factory VIN can be found on the passenger frame rail near about where the alternator is, stamped into the frame. It will begin and end with a start shaped character.
If the title and frame numbers do not match, now is a good time to get it fixed, especially before putting any money into it.
The rust issues don't look fun to deal with it but the interior of that truck looks very nice. I like the Passat seats. Do those have built in seatbelts or is it just the seats?
Confederate - re: the VIN stamping on the frame, should this be readily visible when just popping the hood and looking in the general vicinity of the alternator? Pretty sure the cab (or at least the doors) was swapped out on mine and the VIN on the door matches the title but would like to know about the frame...
I found my frame numbers on the passenger top rail between the cab mount and the front crossmember , not forward of the crossmember like others have found there's . Must be another one of those " all depends on what line worker stamped it " variations .
FWIW, the VIN on my '64 frame top rail was "missing" until I laid a small flashlight on the frame, and let the light skim across the surface. Voila! The number finally appeared. The number was smaller and shallower than I expected. Best wishes on the project.
Larry
ALCON: The VIN is a very light stamping, and is usually very hard to see without cleaning. The least amount of surface rust, grease etc will conceal it.
There are two of them, both are on the passenger side upper frame rail.
One is stamped about in line with the alternator, forward of the front crossmember. There are exceptions out there, too, but that is where the great majority of them will be found.
The other is underneath the cab.
