2001 F250 7.3, AT, CC, LB, FWD

Ugh... I just replaced my front pads and was pushing the caliper pistons out with the pedal and I noticed that the pedal kept going to the floor.. I was backing it out and saw fluid on the driveway. I though it was a busted front brake line so I took the front tire back off...

After removing the tire, nothing. Then, I noticed that tons of fluid was leaking from the rear. Got under and saw its coming from around the tank...

Now what? Do I have to drop the tank. I hope not....

Any help on instructions would be helpful so I don't have to reinvent the wheel...

Regards,

redbug

 

i got a 5 foot, 4 foot and 1 foot sections of the "new" epoxy coated alloy lines, and a few inline connectors.
wrapped everything with rubber gas line and slid it in between the frame and tank.
then disconnected the old line in the rear at the soft line connection, and up front at the connection near the firewall and hooked the new line up. then used wire ties to secure the new line along the frame.
that was 4? years ago on my 02 shortbed extended cab

 

oh yeah. dont bother dropping the tank. more hassle than its worth.

the old line does not have to come out of the truck. it can just be left in there to continue rotting. just unhook it. or my favorite... a bolt cutters.

the new line can be routed in whatever way you want. below the tank, over the tank, completely to the other frame rail instead. heck, you could route it up and over the cab. it just needs to be leak free and all the air has to be bled out of it.

dont route it anywhere where it will sit in a puddle of water, anywhere it will be abraded by anything. and dont route it anywhere it will get hot and boil, as in too near a tail pipe.

 

OK, great!

I hacked off a piece of it to take to the auto store tomorrow. Letting the line leak out into pan tonight.

Found a rusty section up front, I'll see if I can fix that while I'm at it.

Yes, dropping the tank is too big of a job.

Some day I would like to take the whole bed off to address the rust but I don't know if I'll ever find the time... If I ever do I'll do the brake lines right.

For now, the new line is going in somewhere else!

Regards,

redbug

 

yup, thats what you want to do. the parts store will be able to match the fitting size to what was originally there. most likely SAE 3/16"

you may want to take both ends in. sometimes the front side is not the same. especially if you have ABS.

oh and measure total length with with your tape measure quick if you havent already. too long is always better than too short. extra length can be bent in odd shapes to use it up.

 

rear on the superduty should be 1/4 inch. front line is 3/16

 

I do believe you are correct on the line size. Now I caught my line going to the back before it let go. I planned on removing the old line and replace the whole line put all the correct bents in it. Then the snowball effect took hold of me. So then I decided to do the hutch / harpoon & prefilter modd since I was pulling the tank. Dropping the tank is NOT that big a job as long as there isn't more than 1/4 tank of fuel. Well I am glad I dropped the tank and did the tank modds since the filters in the tank were about clogged. Now as far as the brake line goes I went to Advance Auto bought a 25' of 1/4" AGS Poly Armour steel line #PAC-425 and 2 new fitting for 1/4" to match the ones on the truck. I do believe they were metric threads too. On my F350 CC LB Drw that lines about 14' long and had about 14 bends in it. I ended up putting 12 bends in and was able to get it to fit the way it was design too if not better. What a pain in the rear that was! Was it worth it...Not really ! But since I didn't want my OCD getting the better of me I'm glad I did it that way and doing the hutch/ harpoon mod at the same time was a smart move.


Also if I recall correctly the brake lines from the center of rear diff to the caliper were 3/16" too. I replaced them too and I bought them already made up with ends. The only reason I am not sure is because I replaced the diff lines when I did the rear brakes earlier. Oh yea I replaced all rubber hoses on the truck too.

 

Bought 25' of steel coated brake line. $25. There was nickel plated for $60, I skipped that. Bought end fittings and 3 connectors.

Took some time but it all went in.

All working great now. Thanks for the help.