Ya, ya, I'm still setting the 1211. I hadn't gone to the track with the bigger hills since I put a new LPOP on. I set the light on a fairly easy hill this time. It was only running about 25lbs of boost and the numbers all looked ok. I ran it with the light on all the way home (another 120 miles) and had a few questions. The reason I didn't shut it off will be explained later in my starter rant.

I wasn't really watching the numbers real close until the light came on. After it did, I checked closer. With the light on, my icp was dropping when I'd pull a hill hard. It seemed weird to me, when I was running fairly level ground it was showing about 3000psi, give or take. When I'd start getting into it on a hill, the icp dropped to 2300-2400. Then would go back up when I'd back off. I only noticed ONE buck this time, no bucking bad like it was last time. Never showed over 42%dc, and this time I did try to see where the injector pw would be and if I got after it real hard it went to 4.4. Ideas?

Turbo now. I was pulling a big hill and at this time the boost was at about 38lbs, running 1200* in drive. All of a sudden with no throttle movement the boost dropped to 30, then went right back up. It did this twice on this hill. First time I've noticed that. I do have a boost fooler on the truck if that makes a difference.

Now the starter rant. Frickin mean green failed me again today. I went to start the truck before I loaded the trailer after the races and nothing. Then it cranked and started, but the starter didn't disengage! #$%^&*()_#$%^&*(@#$%^&'n POS. I turned the motor over by hand and could hear the starter turning too. Thankfully I carry lots of spare parts and threw my spare starter on. THis is why I didn't want to shut it down after I got going and the cel came on. This backup starter is not much good, turns over quite slow, and knowing my luck when it got hot it wouldnt' work!

OK, I'm done. Ain't been around much the last couple weeks, way busier than I want to be. Any ideas I'm all ears.

Thanks guys.

 

I am not sure where mean greens HQ is but I would drive there and throw it through their front glass!

 

How old are your injector orings ?

For the turbo it sound like you had a turbo stall.

I'd cut my losses and get a two bolt SD starter.
Even if they replaced/fixed it you couldn't trust it.

 

Why would it be running 3,000 psi on level ground? I don't understand it dropping off when you get on it? I have seen over 4 PW but it was WOT run.

The only real way to tell about the boost and boost fooler is to run two boost gauges, one before and one after the fooler. Why the drop, I have no idea. I don't understand turbo stall, how does that happen Mike?

Sorry your having problems Darin.

 

Did you actually hear the turbo stall? With that kind of a quick drop in the boost pressure, I would expect to hear it. If you didn't hear anything change with the turbo, I would check into a possible gauge problem.

Now, why is the ICP dropping. Obviously that is the source of the 1211 code. What is the oil temp when this happens? If the oil is getting very hot, it is possible for the oil to get hot enough to make the HPOP have a hard time building pressure. On pumps that were too small for the injectors they were running, I've seen a drop in pressure above 200* and the drop increases the more the oil heats up from there. My OBS is a prime example of that.. @180* it will hold 2900psi, but at 210* it will drop to 2200-2300psi @ WOT.

It is pretty strange that IPR DC% isn't rising above 42% too. Will it come above 42% in a higher power tune?

 

I didn't hear the turbo stall, just the drop in pressure. The gauge is a fairly new autometer, but that doesn't mean anything either.

Mike, the injector orings are 4 years old with about 20k on them, give or take. I have the same thought on the starter, just pi$$es me off.

Travis, I'm running shaeffers oil, and the oil temp was up to 220. I haven't seen above 42% either, and I run in the 140 tune all the time.

Glenn, thankfully the problems aren't too serious, we'll get it figured out eventually!

Aaron, I wanted to do what you said the first time I had trouble with it! Only problem iirc they are in Pennsylvania...

Thanks for the help guys.

 

So you didn't hear the turbo fall off boost and then come back up? No audible difference in the pitch of the turbo? If you didn't hear the turbo change sounds, I would be ok with assuming for now that the turbo didn't change speeds or drop boost. Is your boost gauge electric or mechanical? I'm guessing mechanical as most Autometer's are and it would be really weird to see a mechanical Autometer doing that..

While that oil temp isn't too hot to continue running the truck, I do think that some of your ICP issues are related to your oil temp. Go out and run it around 180-200* and record what everything looks like. Then check it out again once it gets up to 220*. Perhaps your tuner is not calling for any more than 42% IPR DC? That would be a question for Bill. I honestly have no idea why you aren't able to pull more than 42%, even when ICP drops on hard runs.

 

I coudn't tell the difference in sound for sure, my hearing isn't real good either. It's screaming pretty good at 30 or 38 so its kind of hard for me to tell. I think it was a surge though, it did seem to lose a hair of power then come back the two times it did it. It's a mechanical boost gauge. What would cause a surge?

The more I thought about it this morning on my road trip, the oil temp did come down later in the trip. Less hills, etc. It was about 200 then and the pressures didn't drop off as far either. As for the 42%, I swear I was able to do more than that before. I need to go back and look at some previous threads last year and see if I can find anything.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...et-update.html

That thread is from 2 years ago with the modded 17. First three pages tell most. It seems I am locked at 42%. Edit: No I'm not, I hit 60% in that thread, untouched tunes since then.

I wonder what the best option is. I really like my tunes. I don't want to spend 500 bucks and not be happy with a new one. I also will not turn the chip down. I built it to use the power, not turn it down to tow. Maybe just send my chip in? According to that old thread I talked to Jim back then and he said usually the obs trucks are locked at around that number and the super duties go higher, to 65%. Is that right?

I don't know if its worth a try to rig up an oil cooler on the truck. I'm not sure if it would do enough cooling to help. Wouldn't hurt, but I don't think it would cure my problem.

Means it only bucked once and not a lot like last time before I changed the LPOP, I don't think the added resevoir space I could add up top will help either. I still may do it though as its still part of what I'm working on fixing and can't hurt.

Other thoughts?

 

I still can't understand 3000 psi on the flats?

My oil temp is always around 220 to 230 tops. I have seen DC% up to 50 on my favorite chip.

 

I'm not getting it either Glenn. It wasn't flat ground, but close, and not working "hard". The bottom of the hill I'd hit 3000 or more then it would drop as I pushed it up the hill.

As for that other thread link I posted, if you read on (like I didn't and said all was in first three pages) I made a wot empty test run and hit 60%dc with it. Post 73. The tunes have not been touched since this time.

I'm back to the thinking of needing more pump. Hard to believe, but I can't come up with anything else.

I sent Joey an email and a link too.

Travis, I can't make a run empty and get to much over 180 with the 180 Tstat in. No problem when loaded, but empty it barely sees over 180. Plus the test runs a couple years ago kind of tell me about the tunes. I filled you in a little above on the numbers not dropping as much at 200 yesterday.

 

I went to town today and got a SD starter at napa. New motorcraft style, napa brand gear reduction starter. Put it on and turned on my batteries and the truck tried to start! I then decided to change the fender solenoid as I had a spare one of those too. No change, still tried to start. So, I put my old starter back on and it worked normal.

Geez, now I have to go to Mitchell and get another starter tomorrow....

I took the meangreen along with me as I thought about having the local repair guy look at it. I couldn't even take it in, didn't want to pay anyone anymore for the darn thing. I may pull it apart myself and look at it.

I now have 3 starters. 600 dollars worth of gear reduction starters that don't work, one new and one only a couple years old, and a remanned one I bought 8-10 years ago that is still cranking it, although pretty slow.

 

The Denso's are the biggest and best starters you will ever find for one of these. Around $400 dollars, direct bolt in and brand new from Denso.

 

You may be right but I'm not spending that much on another starter after my last experience. If it keeps this chit up I'll go get another remanned one and put it in! No matter what I use I'll always have my spare.

 

Do you think the SD one from NAPA is defective? My powermaster starter the other day slipped or skipped a gear on me, maybe it was a grinding sound, I"m not sure. Now I'm thinking starters . I have my old, old one under the camper somewhere, hope I don't have to dig it out!