Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

First time ever replacing a water pump.. help please

  #31  
Old 08-22-2014, 07:07 AM
Rogue_Wulff's Avatar
Rogue_Wulff
Rogue_Wulff is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lost
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Replacement hose nipples are not that much, $5-10 in most cases.
If the old one has deep rust pits where the hose fits, I'd say why risk having the hose leak for such a small price.
I know you bought a reman pump, but new aren't that much more. Most times, a new pump will come with the fitting(s) needed to install it.

Locktite on the fan clutch? No need, if you get it tight. Particularly if you ever want to get it back off.......
 
  #32  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:14 AM
tecgod13's Avatar
tecgod13
tecgod13 is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Western Mass
Posts: 3,565
Received 119 Likes on 100 Posts
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Locktite on the fan clutch? No need, if you get it tight. Particularly if you ever want to get it back off.......
Several members on here recommend loctite to keep the fan from unscrewing itself when the engine stops. Its not pretty when the fan loosens up and propels itself into the radiator.

Having used loctite on my fan clutch, I had no problem removing it a second time when the cheap pump I used failed 2 years later. I can't remember which color I used (red or blue) but it was under the advice from this forum.
 
  #33  
Old 08-22-2014, 02:53 PM
mozzles's Avatar
mozzles
mozzles is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rogue_Wulff - You're talking about the "heater hose fitting" that threads into the water pump, and the heater hose goes onto it, right? I'm looking on the O'Reilly site and they have a ton of them, but I'm not sure which to get. Do I just want to get one that is as close to this size as possible? Obviously I want the hose part to be the same diameter as the inside diameter of the hose that's going on it, just not sure about the rest of it.

I found this water pump at an auto parts store here for only $30.. so in my case it would have been over twice as much for the cheapest new one. I know it's not always best to buy the cheapest parts, but I'm on a budget here and it looks like an ok pump so we'll see how she does.

As far as the fan clutch, I've read more people saying to use RTV or loctite than I have people saying not to, so I plan on using it.
 
  #34  
Old 08-22-2014, 04:07 PM
geniusloerts's Avatar
geniusloerts
geniusloerts is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Blue Locktite
 
  #35  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:21 PM
Rogue_Wulff's Avatar
Rogue_Wulff
Rogue_Wulff is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lost
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Originally Posted by mozzles
Rogue_Wulff - You're talking about the "heater hose fitting" that threads into the water pump, and the heater hose goes onto it, right? I'm looking on the O'Reilly site and they have a ton of them, but I'm not sure which to get. Do I just want to get one that is as close to this size as possible? Obviously I want the hose part to be the same diameter as the inside diameter of the hose that's going on it, just not sure about the rest of it.

I found this water pump at an auto parts store here for only $30.. so in my case it would have been over twice as much for the cheapest new one. I know it's not always best to buy the cheapest parts, but I'm on a budget here and it looks like an ok pump so we'll see how she does.

As far as the fan clutch, I've read more people saying to use RTV or loctite than I have people saying not to, so I plan on using it.
Yes, heater hose fitting. I don't know what size the hole is, but would bet it's either 3/8 NPT or 1/2 NPT, as those are fairly common sizes.
If all else fails, take the new pump with you, and a chunk of the hose. That should allow the store to match up one that will work.

I can understand having limited funds. But, most of the cheaper "reman" pumps don't last as well as the new ones. Even if it is replaced for free, you still have to do the work to change it, when it does fail......

I could see using green or blue locktite, if one really felt the need. I use an air hammer with the fan clutch adapter tool. I can knock these things off pretty easy, and make sure they go back on tight. I've never had one come off, after installing it with this method, and I don't use locktite.
One of the other mechanics had to remove a fan clutch I had installed several months earlier, and he had a rather hard time getting it off, as the serpentine belt (8 rib) kept slipping, and it wasn't a very old belt......
That was on a Cummins, those things shut down faster than any other engine I have ever seen/heard. The chirp they let out when shutting down, is the belt slipping from the momentum of the alt.....
 
  #36  
Old 08-23-2014, 01:27 PM
Sycostang67's Avatar
Sycostang67
Sycostang67 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Kuna ID
Posts: 5,443
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
You should still get several years of good service from a reman pump. My reman pump is going on 6 years now, longer than the radiator that went in with it. Be careful not to over tighten the water pump bolts as you could warp the plate it mounts to causing a leak. The heater hose is 5/8" for when you go to get more.
 
  #37  
Old 08-26-2014, 09:51 PM
zloetakoe's Avatar
zloetakoe
zloetakoe is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by kla94
There should be a wide wrench with the rental that will fit over the for bolts on the pulley. This allows you to hold the pulley and use the other wrench to turn the big nut on the clutch. LEFT HAND threads on the clutch.
Here was the most helpful idea I found for removing fan clutch nut...



Got this done, Wasn't too bad. Much more enjoyable then than damnable oil cooler (never drank so much AF as when I pulled the oil cooler off)...
 
  #38  
Old 08-26-2014, 09:54 PM
zloetakoe's Avatar
zloetakoe
zloetakoe is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Sycostang67
You should still get several years of good service from a reman pump. My reman pump is going on 6 years now, longer than the radiator that went in with it. Be careful not to over tighten the water pump bolts as you could warp the plate it mounts to causing a leak. The heater hose is 5/8" for when you go to get more.
What is behind that plate? Mine was corroded pretty badly from what I assume was YEARS of running/sitting the truck with the same long worn out antifreeze before I got ahold of it. Lesson learned, check the coolant level and color/quality BEFORE buying the truck.
 
  #39  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:40 PM
tecgod13's Avatar
tecgod13
tecgod13 is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Western Mass
Posts: 3,565
Received 119 Likes on 100 Posts
Originally Posted by zloetakoe
What is behind that plate? Mine was corroded pretty badly from what I assume was YEARS of running/sitting the truck with the same long worn out antifreeze before I got ahold of it. Lesson learned, check the coolant level and color/quality BEFORE buying the truck.
Thats the timing cover. It covers the 'timing' gears, which are the gears from the crankshaft to the camshaft and injection pump. Its a direct route down into the oil pan, so if it corrodes away behind the waterpump you might have a big problem. Although I haven't heard of that happening.
 
  #40  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:43 PM
zloetakoe's Avatar
zloetakoe
zloetakoe is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tecgod13
Thats the timing cover. It covers the 'timing' gears, which are the gears from the crankshaft to the camshaft and injection pump. Its a direct route down into the oil pan, so if it corrodes away behind the waterpump you might have a big problem. Although I haven't heard of that happening.
Figured that whatever was behind there was important. I'm hoping that getting some good quality AF in there will slow down the process. Should have taken a picture. It was pretty unbelievable.
 
  #41  
Old 08-29-2014, 10:53 PM
Sycostang67's Avatar
Sycostang67
Sycostang67 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Kuna ID
Posts: 5,443
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by zloetakoe
Here was the most helpful idea I found for removing fan clutch nut...


Removing a Radiator Fan Clutch Nut - The Easy Way - YouTube

Got this done, Wasn't too bad. Much more enjoyable then than damnable oil cooler (never drank so much AF as when I pulled the oil cooler off)...
That's a good idea. I use that method every time I remove or install a flywheel and clutch. I usually use the chain on my wallet though which has resulted in me leaving my wallet dangling under a car or two.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
VaFordman26
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
30
05-04-2014 11:34 AM
KrautBurner
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
15
03-21-2012 11:34 AM
tangofox71
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
7
04-26-2010 02:20 AM
topscrt
Modular V10 (6.8l)
3
07-22-2009 07:53 PM
Anchor-D-Ranch
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
2
06-22-2004 02:50 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: First time ever replacing a water pump.. help please



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:57 PM.