Hey Guys,

So I'm pretty sure I am at the point where I probably need at least rings for my engine (350PSI. on all cylinders except #4,#6, and #8. #4 is the lowest at 225ish and #4,#8 at 250ish). I know that once it is opened up, there is always a chance that more work will have to be done to do the job correctly and maybe I'm dreaming here that I could get by with a set of rings but, I really don't want to spend anymore money than is absolutely necessary for this project. I'm planning on replacing this truck in the next year or two at the most if all goes well and I really need to get it back on the road. The truck isn't a daily driver but I use it a lot for mountain trips and pulling my fifth wheel.

With that being said, I'm thinking I could pull the engine, remove the oil pan and do all the necessary work from the bottom side such as, replace bearings, pull pistons, re-ring etc. But, what I don't know is if on these engines, can it all be done from the bottom side or do I have to pull the heads for this work? Again, I want to do it right, but I don't want to do a complete tear down and machine work if I can help it.

Here is a couple of threads I have regarding the issues I've been facing.

Compression/Gurgling?

http://https://www.ford-trucks.com/f...-gurgling.html

Has anyone seen my oil, Anyone?

http://https://www.ford-trucks.com/f...il-anyone.html

Tonight is the night for smoke

http://https://www.ford-trucks.com/f...g-threads.html

Just to name a few.

 

I would say pull the heads. How do you know its not a valve issue? Besides, the pistons go back in from the top. And should go out the top as well.

 

Do the oil jets unbolt like the big rigs or are they pressed in? I think you Have to pull the heads, with the motor out it's not that big of a deal to freshen up the top end too!!!!!

 

Thanks for the replys.

Right now I do not know if the oil jets are pressesd in? Something to consider. I'm in the process of finding the service manuals for our trucks. I'm about 80% sure that my issue is either rings ( most likely) or bad pistons, which I don't think they are. It could also be scoured cylinders but I'm hoping it's not. I have 5 to 6 inches of water guage pressure in the crankcase when I test it. That is why I'm thinking it is more of a ring issue for the compression lost then a valve issue.

Hopeing others will look at this and add anything I might be missing.

Again thanks for the replys.

 

I can't imagine 3 cylinders in a row on one side being coincidental root causes. This sounds more like a head problem, however rare that may be.

 

The oil jets are bolted to the block.

Trying to reinstall pistons from the bottom side might just drive a ellow to drinking... er... drinking MORE lol.

With compression numbers down that low... i would not even hesitate.
Yank it, and tear it all the way down.

Take lots of pictures eh?

 

I agree that the compression is lower on the three cylinders. But they are still working to some point. I don't know what else I could do to determined where the issue is.

Things I've done in the last year,

Injector cups, ( I'm not seeing fuel or losing coolant right now) so I believe they are good.

New o-rings on the drivers side twice. Swooped #2 for #4 with no change in compression.

I don't believe there is an issue with the valves or valve springs as best I can tell. I was going to pull springs and check stems but the tool I had I didn't feel comfortable with the safety of it.

new oil cooler o-rings.

What got me going down this path was it was using a ton of oil. Over a gallon in 500 miles.
I have oil pushing through the turbo oil seals. I've posted the video several times. I believe the reason for this is because of the crank case pressure.

I wish I could find something that was a lot easier to fix then pulling the engine though.

Hope this post reads ok. Trying to post it from my phone with little font.

 

Subscribed...

 

Generally guys with that much pressure have a broken ring landing or rings. Not good. And if you have a blocked CCV or hose it will make the pressure even worst. If you have an area to work its not that bad once the engine is out. Rebuild or repair or just replace with new or used. I'll be following this as others will too, so you'll have help. You have a chapter in your state, maybe someone won't mine helping also, just a thought.

 

With those compression numbers I thinly outburst to pull it. I think your going to waste a lot of time and loot trying to isolate the problem.

 

The pistons need to come out the top. There isn't enough clearance underneath to get them out that way.

 

A prime example of autocowrecked, lol.

 

IMHO and as Bonanza35 mentioned I would find a low mileage forged rod replacement and use the current motor to rebuild on the side. Keep an eye out on CL and you can find them but they go quick.

 

Hey guys,
Just got back home from a little adventure with my 15 year-old son. Flew out of Denver yesterday morning to Reno, Nv. 16 hours on the road non stop only to fuel twice. Brought home my dads 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 that he had bought brand new. When my dad was alive and battling cancer, my dad wanted my mom to pass it on to my son when he got old enough to start driving. It was one of the better trips that we have had this time around. We laughed and joked with each other now stop. Boy it sure is funny talking to your fifteen year-old about his girl friend. Good times.

When I get a minute I'll try to post answers to the questions.

Thanks guys.

 

Hey bkuuz1, I live really close to Reno and sounds like you have family out there. Next time your in town hit me up and grab some beers and BS some diesel stuff, Hopefully you won't need it but just in case got tools, AE, just offering.