Thanks a million, even with the key out of the ignition when I try and plug a fuse in it has power and blows the fuse.

 

One other thing I noticed was on the #18 transmission control they had a bigger fuse in place than the stock fuse. Should I be concerned?

Again thanks for straightening me out on this.

 

Try that with the doors all closed, if fuse doesn't blow you'll know it has to do with the courtesy lights.

Simplified test might just narrow it down fast for ya.

 

Thanks a million you all, you guy's should be running the planet for sure and then maybe we could be going the right direction. I have one of those Centurion over head lights and I pulled the light apart in the center and the problem seems to have gone away. This light is nothing like the stock Ford setup but who cares!

I will go for a drive.

 

The truck is fixed now, what a piece of DOO DOO. No way in hell should a compartment light grounding out be able to destroy your transmission. If Henry Ford were alive today it would be Bang Zoom for sure!

Thankyou for your help and time.

 

your not wrong there.the transmission should have had it's very own devoted fuse panel under the hood with the diode,relay and all the associated fuses needed for the TECA readings.at the very least,the PSOM should have had it's devoted circuit without anything else on it,and the TECA power should have been the same.
that's what you get for keeping costs down though.the price of the trucks would have had to cost more.it was cheap to wire it up the way they did.
when the power wire shorts out on the 7.3l idi fuel filter heating element it blows the power to the trans.not very wise either.
they could have cleaned up the E40D's wiring greatly with just a few devoted circuits.
the good thing is,we pretty much know all the common wiring issues and typical reasons for blown fuses associated with the trans operation,so you've only got to search or ask here and get it figured out pretty quickly.

now you learned to try and keep away from the stealership and check here first.

 

How hard is it to fix the wiring on this stuff say like you are rebuilding a area or something on the truck. If you are going to make something more complicated electrically at least do it right.

Are any of the other generation trucks alot better about this kind of stuff? like earlier or later?

again thankyou for all you help you all!!!!

 

I joined the "50" club earlier this year. My arms have been too short for years!

Glad to see you found the root cause.

 

My last 2004 Excursion had dozens of fuses. A huge power center under the dash and another distribution box under the hood. Ford did learn their lesson.

My 2006 Mustang GT has it's fair share of fuses and two boxes as well.

Both vehicles require a GPS to locate the correct fuse.

 

Hmmmm...I figured you were in the 39 and holding crowd!

j/k. :-)

 

So if the satelite system goes down you cannot fix your vehicles? what about the newer like 2014's or so?

 

I recently purchased a 2013 Taurus. The first time ever I also bought an extended warranty. I plan to never work on that car. Way too many bells and whistles to deal with. It's the wife's car so it needs to work 105% of the time. NMR = Not My Responsibility.

Come to think of it. ...I do not know where the fuse box (es) is.

 

I want to buy another truck preferrably a 3/4 ton or bigger but I do like 1/2's as well. What were the least headache trucks that got descent mileage. I do not care brand. Thanks.

Like the old F250 300 6 Carb model C6 was like the bullet proof truck or was their better offerings?

 

"Least headache" is usually a new truck. They might be horrible to work on, but they'll rarely need it (at least until they aren't new). They'll also get better mileage that anything older that's comparable.

If you want an older truck, then it depends on your definition of headache. Older, non-computer controlled trucks are definitely simpler to work on. But (relatively) newer computer controlled trucks like your '94 will break down (relatively) less often and get better mileage.

I've got a '71 Bronco and a '97 F-250. There's no question that the '71 is easier to work on, but it simply doesn't work as well as the '97. Little stuff like cold starts and hot restarts, both of which the '71 does not do well. Which is less headache? For me it's probably the '97, bit YMMV.

Added in edit: By the way, the E4OD is about as bulletproof as transmissions come. Sure it doesn't work right when sensors go bad, wires break or fuses blow. But they seem to go a LONG time before needing to be rebuilt. And the minor electrical things are just that, minor. They can be hard to track down if you don't know what you're looking for, but fortunately there are a lot of people on this board that can help us with that! The C6 was a really good trans too, but I don't think it's got anything over the E4OD in terms of longevity. It's simpler, but it also has no lockup torque converter or overdrive. Again, you choose what is more important to you.

 

i know the first GEN E4od had alot of issues?