What brand bearing hubs do y'all suggest?

Ryan

 

I would go with timken hubs. Make sure of the thread on the wheel studs. Get the hubs that are for the 4 wheel abs, so you are able to grease the needle bearing without having to pull the bearing assembly. The 4 wheel abs hubs are cheaper than the 2 wheel abs also and work exactly the same.

 

X2 on the 4 wheel ABS hubs. Can't figure out why they are cheaper than the 2 wheel ABS hub but they are.

I bought Napa's Proformer Bearing and they were only about $120 ea. Only have 10K on them but doing fine. Only time will tell.

If your not sure if your studs are fine or course( I wasn't), take one lug nut off and go to a parts store and ask to see a hub. Try it on, then you'll know.

 

Gee whiz! While I am this far into it, I am debating doing the ball joints and knuckle vacuum seal at this time too. 190k miles they appear to be original. What say you forum?

Ryan

 

get the timkens, there is a price difference between course and fine threads, get the cheaper one. if the studs are different than yours change the studs! it takes me about 10 minutes to change the studs on both bearings

 

I went with the motorcraft from ford. They were NOT cheap at 400 bucks a side. My thought process was that if they made it to 200k miles (when I changed mine) that they should last another 200k miles. Should I hope!

 

Why not just replace the $10 needle bearing from Ford? Heres the link I used and have put a few thousand miles on since without issue.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F2...leBearings.htm

Also riffraff diesel sells a zerk fitting for greasing the hubs and bearings as well.

 

What do you use to press them in and out?

 

Punisher,

i strongly reccomend doing the ball joints while you are that deep. i had my truck on the rack about 4 yrs ago and less than 10k ago and the ball joints were fine but i always had a clunk to it. couple of weeks ago i brought the truck back in for some well needed maintenance(p.o. did nothing to it and i have only put 10k on in the 5 yrs i have owned it) threw it up on the rack and the ball joints were completely toasted. if i had gone any longer on those i have no doubt in my mind that there would have been a failure soon

 

There not pressed there threaded

 

please pardon my ignorance. Are we talking about the 8 wheel studs per bearing or the 4 mounting studs? If wheel studs, are you saying those are threaded in?

Thanks

 

I'm guilty of speed reading again..... I was talking about the 4 on the back side of the hub.some of the cheaper ones don't even come with new studs and the old ones have to be reused.




I reread. We are talking about the 4 on the back side not the 8 for the lugs..

 

it is the 8 lug bolts that are either fine or course thread, they are pressed in.
I have an old wheel that I set the hubs on to drive the studs in that way there is no impact on the bearings.
drive them out with a 4 pound sledge, flip over on wheel drive in with same sledge and a 1inch punch that is about 10 inches long

 

I would go this route also and replace ujoints and all the seals why you are there. That way you don't have to touch it again for a long time. Also the zerk fitting form riffraff works well and for $40 you can leave them on and can grease anytime you need to.

 

Does the zerk fitting work if you have 4 wheel ABS?

Ryan.