I have a 2000 Ford F150 rclb 4x4 with a 4.2 Liter v6 and auto trans. I am in the process of removing the engine, and have everything loose except for one bellhousing bolt. It is the upper bolt on the driver side. I can't figure out how to access it! I was able to use extensions for the upper bolts on the passenger side, but no luck on the driver side. I would like to leave the trans in the truck if possible. I can't even get a hand on the bolt because of the tight quarters.

Any ideas? Helpful hints? Thanks!

 

Sometimes they work if you have your socket, then a swivel joint and then use about 3 feet of extensions or so that you can have your ratchet basically behind the transmission. I go with ⅜ drive, then I'd for more reach you need more, use an adapter and step up to ½.

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Thanks for the reply. I used that method on the passenger side and it worked well. Unfortunately I haven't had any luck on the driver side. I'll have to give it another try.

 

I'm not real sure how much room there is if you try to get at it from under the hood. I know some vehicles that is possible as well, especially if you have a ratcheting box end wrench.

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I pulled the engine from the salvage yard the other day for my donor engine due to a upper knock in the engine currently in the pickup. Someone already had the transmission removed so it was easy to get out with the radiator removed. It was close clearance with the pulley smack tight to the ac condensor. I didnt remove the intake or anything that I didnt have to.

Now I am about to pull the bad engine out of the 2001 pickup and like other people have mentioned, the 2 top bolts are difficult where the auto trans bolts to engine. I plan on removing both engine mounts completely to drop the engine down some to get a ratcheting wrench on the driver side top bolt. Since I dont want to damage the condensor, I will likely remove the fan pulley and the crankshaft pulley. The ac compressor sets nicely in the battery pan out of the way without breaking the ac system open. Of course, some break free and let the manifold to exhaust nuts soak is the best solution, but it is always a pain to get the nuts off the studs to disconnect the exhaust, and taking the exhaust manifolds off is too much work.

I chose this engine to replace rather than the 5.4 due to ease of working on it. Out of curiosity, I may pull the top off the bad engine to see what is knocking, but from what I read it is likely dropped valves.