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1949 F4 V8 to Mercedes diesel build thread

 
  #301  
Old 07-29-2018, 07:33 PM
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Nice work Mark. I like the way you're going about it. Using zip ties will nominally hold the form and shape of the wire loom. Also, lacing the wire works well and looks good if properly done.
 
  #302  
Old 07-30-2018, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b View Post
Instead of using zip ties or tape why not just use asphalt wire loom and cloth tape ? . You can split the loom for under dash where you have stuff already terminated and paired with cloth tape it would look quite period. Just a suggestion.
Thanks for the suggestion, Matt. I'm not sure I could find the asphalt loom large enough for my under dash harness. All the wiring on my truck was originally taped with the black tape without the adhesive on it, so once the tape securing the end was removed, it all cam off pretty easily. I have a couple rolls of the tape without adhesive that I will use outside the cab. I am afraid if I go to all the trouble of taping the harness under the dash, I will have to cut it all off to reverse the 8 gauge feed wire thru the amp gauge.
Thanks again, Mark
 
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Old 07-30-2018, 05:16 PM
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Thank you, Bob. I couldn't think of any other way to do it without spending a lot of time on my back under the dash. I can stand in my work pit and run the wires under the truck. What is the lacing you mentioned and how is it done?
Thanks again, Mark
 
  #304  
Old 07-30-2018, 05:25 PM
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I am testing each circuit as I go for continuity to the correct fuse or relay and with a 12V battery to make sure the circuit works and doesn't interfere with any other circuit. I have had to move a couple of circuits on the panel, because when I tested them, they were tied internally to another fuse or relay that I was already using for something else. It has been an interesting puzzle.
Thanks, Mark
 
  #305  
Old 07-30-2018, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4 View Post
.... I am afraid if I go to all the trouble of taping the harness under the dash, I will have to cut it all off to reverse the 8 gauge feed wire thru the amp gauge.
...
Exactly the kind of thing I ran into! No sooner did I have it all routed and wrapped, then I added about 5 circuits, had to cut it all open again. It hasn't been the same since. I am no good at neat wiring while laying under a dash.

There was a thread on the HAMB on "neat wiring", I saved these pics off there. The waxed-string lacing is tough to do.


 
  #306  
Old 08-01-2018, 09:44 AM
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That is some neat wiring! It reminds me of the wiring in the control panels and DC drives for some of the machinery we had at Aeroquip.
Thanks, Mark
 
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Old 08-18-2018, 04:50 PM
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I have the wiring harness done, ready to remove from the mock up dash and firewall. I still have a little work to do on the wiper motor mounting brackets, then I can start the harness installation. Here are a few photos.


Here is the harness from the firewall side. The wire bundle going straight down from the firewall hole are the wires to the dimmer switch and the rear of the truck. The bundle angling off to the right of the photo are the wires to the front of the truck. The bundle going across to the left of the photo go to the alternator and glow plug relay.


This is the back of the dash.


The back side of the fuse panel.


The fuse panel mounted on the inside of the mock up firewall. The box just above the fuse panel is the Tach control. It changes the gear tooth sensor signal from the flywheel to a standard 8 cylinder tach signal.


Another shot of the harness coming out of the firewall hole.
I will probably only tape the wire bundles out side the cab.
Thanks, Mark
 
  #308  
Old 08-18-2018, 05:58 PM
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Mark,

It is nice to see the progress and the neat job you are doing.

Nelson
 
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:00 PM
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Thank you, Nelson
Mark
 
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Old 08-19-2018, 06:58 AM
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Mark that's a nice looking wiring job you have done there!
 
  #311  
Old 08-19-2018, 02:03 PM
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Thank you, Howard. How is Stanley coming along?
Mark
 
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Old 08-20-2018, 08:09 AM
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Looking good Mark. Seeing your elaborate mock-up and the seemingly miles of wire you are dealing with, makes me wonder how my simple partial wiring harness replacement project could have turned into the protracted six month struggle that it has. I commend you on your excellent work! I'm guessing your signal lights will be working before mine. LOL.

Jim
 
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Old 08-21-2018, 08:03 PM
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Thank you, Jim for the kind words. I hope when I remove it from the mock up to install it in the truck I have all the wires marked correctly. I still have to solder new wires into my turn signal switch. I'm using an old Guide turn signal switch that has a wheel that rolls on the steering wheel to cancel the signal. It has the old fabric covered wires that are pretty hard and brittle.
Thanks again, Mark
 
  #314  
Old 08-23-2018, 03:43 PM
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After much head scratching and redesign, I think I finally have the wipers working the way I want them to. I ended up using the wiper motor and arms from my donor Mercedes. So, my wipers are now Mercedes Benz powered also, actually Bosch powered. I still need to remove the motor bracket to finish welding and to paint it. Once I get it bolted back in, I can install the wiring harness. Here are several of photos.


Everything clears the defrost duct nicely.


The motor bracket thru the radio hole.


I will use a mid 70s Ford truck wiper switch. The switch has wash function on it which I need for the windshield washer. It also has the same mounting threads and shaft diameter as the original wiper control, so I can use the original bezel and ****. I may upgrade later to an intermitent wiper switch from the same model Ford truck.
Thanks, Mark
 
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Old 08-31-2018, 04:55 PM
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I have the Guide 6004 turn signal switch rewired, painted and installed. I also made a mount and modified the can for the tach and painted it the same color as the turn signal switch.


This switch has a cancelling wheel that runs on the steering wheel. You can see it against the steering wheel in this pic.



I mounted an emergency flasher switch from my Mom and Dad's '66 Ford Ranchwagon on the column drop in the hole for the column shift tube. The E-flashers are powered hot all the time and the turn signals are powered thru the ignition switch. The turn signal switch doesn't have a provision for E-flashers, so I added the separate switch.
Thanks, Mark
 

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