Brake issues on ’05 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it’s 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year. Now currently I’m assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it “professionally” checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid $279 each for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn’t want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can’t imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Any idea why they would so quickly?

Thanks,

 

You should be able to turn the rotors at least twice in their lifetime. I just bought a 2000 F-250 that had brake wobble. It was also primarily used to pull a trailer.

I had the rotors turned and probably didn't need it that badly. The culprit was a wheel bearing race that was chewed up. The last guy to do the brakes probably over-tightened it. Supposed to be 20 ft/lbs; just barely tighter than hand tight.

For trailering, do not get metallic brake shoes. They get too hot. Stick with ceramic. And make sure your trailer brakes are working.

As I understand it, most of the time the wobble attributed to "warping" is caused by buildup of brake pad debris on the rotor. At a reputable shop, you should be able to get the rotors turned and new pads installed for $300. You should put new pads on any time you turn the rotors and vice versa. The wheel and rotor are a single unit, so the bearings have to come off the front to get the rotors off. You can check them then.

I'm assuming the '05 is not too different than the 2000 model.

 

You did good by not choosing the chineasium white box crap. At 40K those rotors should have been machined for 20 each! Id be wary of that garage. Make sure the caliper sliders are well lubed and slide freely. If the caliper is hanging up the excessive heat will warp the rotor(s). Your soft lines should be ok. Check them anyway. If they delaminate inside they can act as a one way valve or restrict the fluid return when you let off the brake. This will cause the piston to hold the pressure to the pads longer than it should, again causing heat. There is a test for that.

 

The shop charged you $279 EACH for the rotors? Sounds to me like you got ripped off. According to this, they're $116 each.

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...20Super%20Duty

Not to mention, they sound have easily been able to be turned. They probably didn't have the equipment to do it and didn't want to send them out when they can rape you for a set of new rotors.

If they're going to pull that, it wouldn't surprise me at all if they charged you for the Ford rotors and put on the cheap Chinese ones instead.

Sent from my HTC ONE using IB AutoGroup

 

Not sure about the superduties, but on our Excursions, improper torque on the lug nuts would warp the rotors in NO time !!!

Not only improper final torque, but improper ORDER of torque, i.e. put a impact gun on the first lug nut and crank it down to 100 lbft, then pick up the next nut from the shop floor and crank IT down to 100, etc...

I always ask they be torque by hand in an incremental star pattern...
do all to 20 lbft, then all to 40 lbft, etc...

good luck !

 

Fordn requiring rotors at 40K miles is very probable in my history with SDs. A replacement set at 15K, probably not uless you have had a dragging brake pad allowing them to overheat. Replacement rotors - I've been using Centric Part # 12565112 mid line replacement with very good luck at about $82 each from Rock Auto along with Hawk LTS pads.

There are some other pieces to check - tie rod ends, center link and sway bar links for looseness. Then possibly even the steering knuckle. Then it might be as 'simple' as a frozen caliper guide pin which are the bane of Fords, regardless of year or vehicle. That will cause the caliper to bind and unequal braking.

 

On my truck, I had the same issue. Wobble in the steering wheel when braking. Not the brake pedal. I found the tie rod off the pitman arm was loose. New rod, alignment and she is good.

 

A complete diagnostics is in order by a reputable service shop if you don't know how to repair yourself.

Seek some recommendations from friends as well.

You were taken to the cleaners on the last one. Rotors can be turned. On each rotor there is a min spec. Rotors and pads should be replaced as a set if new rotors are in order.

I would suggest a whole front end check to include pulling the brake calipers to check the pads and rotors. Look at them yourself and always ask for the old parts back. They are yours.

 

I see you live basically right down the street from me OP. Do you get wobble in the steering wheel, pulsing in the brake pedal or both?

I glazed my OE pads a few times coming down the mountain from Pine Grove. The rotors shook and I think the fluid started boiling once. The brakes pulsed through the pedal for a while and then slowly cleared up so the pads had to glaze over slightly.

I have been running Hawk SD pads and Raybestos advanced technology (around $105 each) slotted rotors and they work really well. OE Motorcraft rotors are well under $100 each. The OE rotors and especially the pads are not optimal IMO. I get most of the stuff from Rockauto and do the work myself. I have seen too many half assed brake jobs and dragging brakes coming from shops in our area. Brakes are rather simple but they are rarely done right.

I don't get rotors turned 99% of the time, only time is if for some reason the pads would need changed on fairly new rotors. Turning a warped rotor is usually a waste IMO as they will warp sooner and removing more material will not help either. Plus here in PA the rotors can rust up fairly quick.

 

Last month coming home from Knoebels I was on 501 from Pine Grove to Myerstown, the downhill side. It wobbled pretty bad. Typically I do my own brakes but the last time with the new rotor issue I was having it inspected. They called me at work saying the rotors were all warped. I was heading somewhere the next day and needed the truck so I told them to go ahead and get it fixed up. Typically this shop is right on, been dealing with them for over 16 years. They've saved me some money and grief over the years, maybe they made it up on the rotor deal? I give the suspension a once over and see if anything stands out. Next Time I'm pulling the camper is in 5 weeks so I have time to work this out.

Thanks all for the input.

 

Agreed - BUT!!

The trend has been for most shops to reduce their liability by no longer turning rotors or drums. According to two close friends that own their own repair facilities (shops), this is primarily due to the influx of chinese cr@p iron rotors that fracture when you look at them funny let alone really put them to the test. Same holds true for rebuilding calipers or master cylinders - most shops will insist on full replacement rather than trust substandard components from either the original part the customer has brought in or the replacement parts available on the aftermarket. One of these shops has already been to court due to a brake failure. He replaced rear wheel cylinders, shoes and drums. The client's car had a blown caliper the following year when he failed to heed the advice to replace the worn brake pads. No one was killed but the driver was seriously injured.
He spent many days in court only to be exhonorated of any wrong-doing, but it cost him thousands for lost hours and attorney fees (to protect himself).

It sux, but in today's world of litigeous nut jobs out there, you can't be too careful..

 

I do not recommended ceramic pads on these heavy truck. They chew through them.

As mentioned check those slide pins. I checked mine twice a year and almost always had one that was stuck but I couldn't tell. Also the rubber lines wear out internally and over time they will act as a check valve.

 

Hey guys. I read throught this thread and another on this site, trying to get ideas with my condition. I have a 2005 f350 4wd king ranch dually diesel. It has been sitting a lot due to having 5 vehicles and choosing to use the right vehicle for the task at hand. Truck has just under 150k miles. Started to exhibit a thump on braking as I have experienced with warped rotors. Inspected the front end & found a worn tie rod end. Repaired it. Still had the problem. Replaced the rotors and new pads. Did have one stuck guide pin. I meticulously torque everything. Still have the problem. Not driving the truck till I figure it out. Braking is straight line. Thumping/pulsing seems to be porporional to tire rotation and only with braking. It occurs even at ridiculously slow speed in reverse, like when backing into a parking spot. In the other thread I read, a responder started to look at his ABS system. Another person found his speed sensor damaged. Can anyone give me any additional clues as to what to look at?
What does the speed sensor look like? Also, a question to the person in this thread who had a bad bearing race, How can a bad brake job, damage a bearing race?

 

check your u-joints and if you have a two piece driveshaft you may need to grease the slip-joint.

 

Copied my post if the link doesnt want to work:.........from 6-21-12.....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rans+driveline

"Fixed it! I can’t believe grease made the difference. Got the 8oz tube specifically for this problem...driveline thunk from Ford. Cleaned off the freshly applied Mobil 1 red grease in the parts cleaner. Dried, inspected splines and gooped the entire 8oz of Teflon grease in the slip-joint. Re-used the Oetiker clamp. 200 miles later and like SuperDutyScaler said "silky smooth quietness". So thanks all!
(yes you can reuse the clamps. To get them apart bend the little tab vertical with a small flat blade and unwrap the clamp. Put the short end in a vice and pull apart or spread open the "Hat" made by the crimp tool slightly & gently using small vice grips. You don’t need much. Upon reinstallation wrap the clamp back around the boot insert the tab you bent and tap it back down with a small ballpeen. Be sure the other 2 or 3 humps ahead of the tab engage in their respective slots. Then recrimp, gently. I have the Oetiker tool so that made the recrimp easy). I couldn’t find the proper size (56mm) clamp in small quantities. Everyone wants to sell you a bag of 100 for $50. Ford wants $50 for their boot kit with 2 new clamps. So I saved a few bucks but more importantly the annoying clunk thunk on starts is gone...hopefully for the life of the truck!"

The part number is XG-8. Teflon grease. $8/8oz tube, one tube does the job.

Follow my clamp removal instructions in this thread. I work with these Oetiker clamps daily and I can get a couple of uses out of them as long as I’m careful. That little tab doesn’t need to be perfectly vertical to release the clamp. Worst case is you need to purchase the boot kit for $40. It comes with the clamps. But you need a way to properly pinch the clamp. Some guys say they have had good luck with zip ties. Im not a zip tie guy.


Todays post.........I just picked up a new to me one owner (80 year old gent) 2011 with the same issue. 38K on the clock. I knew right off the bat what it was. I had purchased 2 tubes when I did the 08 a few years ago. Only requires one tube. Silky smooth now.