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Honestly I would not use those.
Look inside, you see more flex.
The Vibrant have a solid interior that slides inside itself as necessary, it's not all flex stuff like that bellow.
i was kind of thinking the same thing the more i compared the two. the vibrant bellow looks more rigid (i.e. able to better handle the back pressure between the cylinders and turbo).
the other ones look more suited for "normal" gasser exhaust systems that have no real backpressure other than their whistletips.
i'll probably use the pipes from that company though.
OK, made some pretty good progress this week so far. We have lots of fab equipment at work, so I’ve been doing as much as I can at lunchtime and after 500 on the machines here, then fitting up and taking measurements at night.
Not as quick of a process as I’d like, but when is it ever?
The turbo came in last week, so first came measurements for the mount and mockup positioning:
I’m an mechanical engineer, so of course I had to draw it up in CAD. i left the mount-to-adapter-plate holes out so that i can just drill them through once i have a final position i like.
The engine adaptor plate didn’t “require” CAD. I just transfer-punched it from the stock pedestal and measured carefully for the oil supply hole …the smaller of the two – the return hole will just stay blocked off the by the plate and the new return will go into the old fuel pump hole. All pretty standard stuff that’s been done by others before.
Positioning mockup (i gave it a little angle (15 from vertical to be exact, as it seems fab might be easier and flow a little better. i guess we'll see):
And a quick double-check that it wasn’t going to be too tall. I had the S366 sitting such that the max height was ~11” above the block mount points. looks like it’ll fit with about 2” to spare:
Oh, and here’s the oil supply fitting I’ll be using: McMaster-Carr
I also measured and hand-drew up the fuel-pump-hole-oil-return-adapter. Once I make it and verify that it works, I’ll scan and post the drawing here.
One thought i have for now is that fitting a DP with this set-up is not going to be fun. i'm going to be stubborn and make a 4" DP work. i'll be taking the cab off for a full repaint, so i'm thinking i'll mount the engine and tranny in the frame and then just cut the firewall till it all fits right. BUT, the turn out of the turbo, past the right head seems impossible even with a 3.5" DP without significant denting or turning straight back first. maybe i'll wind up lifting the turbo a bit higher in the end. i ordered a 4" DP from Clay so i can start playing with that part of the mount on the stand. i have a feeling the DP is going to be sectioned into a million pieces and welded back together by the time i'm done.
Oh, and a question – is that fitting that comes in in the S366 oil supply port one of those inverted flare fittings?
ha. yeah, my wife has nothing but pictures of our kids on her phone. i mean, i do too, but i have way more truck pictures.
and as of now i'm planning on building my on 3" plenums. just flat plate with small holes around the outside a 3" hole in the middle, and a section of pipe welded to it.
normally, i'd just buck up for the stock SD ones, but i'm racking up the credit card bills fast on this build and scrap metal is free at work :-)
plus, i may move the inlets around a bit to suite my needs for my IC pipes - which, yes, i'm doing!
JP, if you got a SD 4 inch dp, it will be sectioned quite a bit to work. That is what i used, a diamond eye one. Like Jim said, your cab floor will need a little modifying!
nice work only problem i see is if you decide to use a bigger charger say a 400 series or a garret gtx series it wont fit due to the turbo pedestal too low and the compressor housing is quite large on them turbos
This is my one and only warning. Pretty big issue I see IMO... Build the turbo pedestal from thicker plate. Think more like 1/2". You need a thicker plate to prevent warping.. If that warps, you'll get a big oil leak from the oil feed o-ring and you could starve the turbo for oil if the leak is large enough.
Now, aside from that one. It looks like you've made good progress. You're positioning the turbo similar to how mine is on my OBS. I've always liked the turbo to be slanted similar to the stock turbo. I do think yours could stand to get pushed towards the back of the engine a bit, but hopefully that'll work how you want it to. Keep it up!
If you want to use stock 2" plenums, you can do that by the way. Just cut down an E99 spyder and use that. I did that with an L99 spyder and used it as the y pipe on my 3" plenums. Just cut the hot side off the spyder.
nice work only problem i see is if you decide to use a bigger charger say a 400 series or a garret gtx series it wont fit due to the turbo pedestal too low and the compressor housing is quite large on them turbos
rodney - any numbers on how much bigger? i've leary of going to high and having fitment issues under the cowl, but i haven't set anything stone here yet, so could bump it upward a bit - and may well want to once my DP comes in and i start mocking everything up.
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
This is my one and only warning. Pretty big issue I see IMO... Build the turbo pedestal from thicker plate. Think more like 1/2". You need a thicker plate to prevent warping.. If that warps, you'll get a big oil leak from the oil feed o-ring and you could starve the turbo for oil if the leak is large enough.
Now, aside from that one. It looks like you've made good progress. You're positioning the turbo similar to how mine is on my OBS. I've always liked the turbo to be slanted similar to the stock turbo. I do think yours could stand to get pushed towards the back of the engine a bit, but hopefully that'll work how you want it to. Keep it up!
If you want to use stock 2" plenums, you can do that by the way. Just cut down an E99 spyder and use that. I did that with an L99 spyder and used it as the y pipe on my 3" plenums. Just cut the hot side off the spyder.
travis - do you speak from experience on that warpage issue? i've used 1/4" A36 plate which is pretty darn tough stuff, but i'm not so stupid to not take advice when its given.
having already put some work into this plate (though not a ton, to be honest) - and not having real easy access to 1/2" plate, maybe i could just weld a ~1" high flange all around the outside of this one. assuming it has no interference issues with the turbo or up-pipes, that should control any warping that wants to happen.
also, i've made the lower flange on the turbo mount piece quite a bit larger than i've seen so that it should cover most of the adapter plate. attaching it with 4 bolts should lend quite a bit of stiffness to the 1/4" plate.
I have not personally run a plate that thin. I do know someone who has run one that thin and it resulted in exactly what I said, a giant oil leak. You're going to do what you want with your own truck, i know this. That was just my one warning about using a plate that thin. There's a reason why literally every mounting kit available to buy for your truck comes with a 1/2" thick pedestal.
well, that's enough for me. i'll go that way myself. just gotta rustle up some 1/2" plate here at work. shouldn't be more than an hour's job to change it over considering i have the 1/4" flat template worked out.
thanks for the insight. its this sort of stuff that makes this forum so invaluable.
It looks like you decided to use a 1/2" plate anyway. I was going to warn you that welding anything to the plate WILL cause it to warp from the heat. We deal with that all the time where I work.
ok, 1/2" adapter plate is made up - just gotta test fit it. also, just got my replacement manifolds in the mail this week from a fellow FTE-er - thanks Quesy! Blasted them up at lunchtime today and they're looking pretty darn good!
i blasted the insides as clean as i could get them, but a few sooty spots remain that were unreachable. my concern would be that the paint would flake off and go through the turbo. ...but then again, that can't be any worse for the turbine than flakes of cast iron rust or soot buildup that almost certainly get through it on a regular basis...
ok, 1/2" adapter plate is made up - just gotta test fit it. also, just got my replacement manifolds in the mail this week from a fellow FTE-er - thanks Quesy! Blasted them up at lunchtime today and they're looking pretty darn good! pics to come soon.
i blasted the insides as clean as i could get them, but a few sooty spots remain that were unreachable. my concern would be that the paint would flake off and go through the turbo. ...but then again, that can't be any worse for the turbine than flakes of cast iron rust or soot buildup that almost certainly get through it on a regular basis...
07-30-2014, 10:41 AM
