Hi all I have posted maby 2 times in the past two years mainly because where I used to live I did not have internet. I am posting because I did a rebuild on my 1992 5.0 motor zf5 manual and it is efi was running good just had a miss to it at wot almost like a rev limiter what I done was


Timing chain
all gaskets and seals besides valve seals
Grinded thermo bump in exhaust port
cleaned up casting lines only no major port and polish job
had hopper and Lower intakes cleaned at machine shop
new water pump
removed all smog components including egr and made block off plates for holes
painted everything including exhaust manifold
Did NOT mess with cam rods or crank

Now the problem I have is a LOT of white smoke coming from exhaust so I unbolted donut and it is blowing oil out pulled number 5 and 7 plugs and they had oil on them engine runs fone and no sweet smell of antifreeze! Everything was torque in 3 stages and all sequences were followed this is the 3rd small block ive done and had no problems high temp thread sealant was used on all bolts! I have removed pcv valve and plugged it off and the problem still persists! After I put it all back together I rotated crank with a ratchet and plugs out and I had one spot that caught about half way through the rotation backed off a little and continued it went past the point fine but I herd a small pop? As I rotated there was no more noise and everything seemed to be smooth as butter valve springs all seemed to fully open and compress as they should when I looked in exhaust port there was a small piece of grinding stone in there about the size of a peanut: so I removed it and rotated again and all seemed fine. Started it up and ran it for about 15 seconds ( as I did not have new belt yet ) and shut it off it did smoke a little but not a lot and today with the new belt and running for 5 minutes my 5 car garage was full of a heavy white smoke so I shut it off and now here I am please help I am going to try and post a video if I can figure out how

 

Help 302 rebuild now smoking:
Truck runs smooth just sounds like a damn tractor because dual straight pipes no cats or muffs

 

I did a little bit of research and it says that I need to use sealent on the bottom head bolts ( the short ones) because they go directly in the water jackets unlike the 69' 302 and the 71' 351w I have built? I used loctite high temp the red is that enough or no

 

Jeez
Don't use Red, you'll never get them off if properly prepped and primed.

Loctite makes an anerobic sealant for bolts going into water.
PST 567.

Loctite® 567

 

I used ARP's thread paste on the water jacket bolts. I've also used another sealant Versa Chem, part#23009. I've used it many times, and it has always worked.

 

Thank you for the replies! I did however clean every hole on the motor perfectly to give the bolts a good bite as well as cleaning bolts! But now im kicking myself in the butt for not doing a little more research on the head gasket install is it I did however look at the bolts and see no water seeping around them! I forgot to mention I have the timing set at 14btdc with sprout removed been like that for a year should I reset to factory 10? Due to removing egr all my cylinder walls looked surprisingly great

 

Ok, another thought is the intake gasket for the runners. I installed new intake gaskets and developed a leak on #6 runner. What intake gasket set did you use and how did you prep them? What torque and sequence did you follow? Try checking the intake bolts and see if the bolts closest to #5 and #7 are loose. Should be no more than 24lbs torque. I have read where they like to loosen after being torqued and then run. I've actually checked after a day or two and found them "settled" and needing a slight pull.

Also, I realize that you have done other rebuilds, so I just wanted to give some insight. Good job on turning the crank and checking for problems.