Low Idle & Dying
#1
Low Idle & Dying
Alright so some may know me about my radiator deal; I bought a used radiator today, haven't installed yet.
But what I'm on here about now is that my truck has a suuuuper low idle and likes to die unless I'm giving some throttle.
Some things; PO ziptied manual choke wide open. Also, seems to me that this started happening after I tightened my alternator belts. Just some facts to think about. I was thinking about my coolant level, too. I topped off completely right before my drive and the low idle issue seemed to be more prominent; bad water pump?
Anyways, I'm going to check my timing asap, to make sure it's 6 degrees BTDC. If I feel courageous I'll set it to 10. Whatever the case, I'm going to get timing out of the question and see if that's my issue.
Then I'll be testing my alternator...really don't think it's faulty but I gotta know for sure. After that, I'll tackle the carb. Hopefully cutting the zip tie doesn't open a whole 'bother can o' worms of trouble. But maybe my issue is that the choke wide open is making it too lean, who knows.
My headlights dim almost completely off when the truck is about to die at really low idle, what would that mean, or be caused by?
I can only do all of this if I have time at work, which I probably won't soon, but I'll keep this updated with what I find. In the meantime I'd appreciate input from your own experiences. Maybe my timing chain jumped a tooth?
But what I'm on here about now is that my truck has a suuuuper low idle and likes to die unless I'm giving some throttle.
Some things; PO ziptied manual choke wide open. Also, seems to me that this started happening after I tightened my alternator belts. Just some facts to think about. I was thinking about my coolant level, too. I topped off completely right before my drive and the low idle issue seemed to be more prominent; bad water pump?
Anyways, I'm going to check my timing asap, to make sure it's 6 degrees BTDC. If I feel courageous I'll set it to 10. Whatever the case, I'm going to get timing out of the question and see if that's my issue.
Then I'll be testing my alternator...really don't think it's faulty but I gotta know for sure. After that, I'll tackle the carb. Hopefully cutting the zip tie doesn't open a whole 'bother can o' worms of trouble. But maybe my issue is that the choke wide open is making it too lean, who knows.
My headlights dim almost completely off when the truck is about to die at really low idle, what would that mean, or be caused by?
I can only do all of this if I have time at work, which I probably won't soon, but I'll keep this updated with what I find. In the meantime I'd appreciate input from your own experiences. Maybe my timing chain jumped a tooth?
#2
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
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I would set timing at 10, and try to re adjust the carb. Set mixture screws to 2 turns rich. That should make any engine run. Set idle speed to 650-700.
Headlights dimming is a direct result of the alternator not spinning fast enough to produce the necessary voltage.
If the water pump shelled out, then it could possibly creating a huge drag on the engine.
Try running without the belt(s) for a minute. If it runs normal start looking for the drag.
Headlights dimming is a direct result of the alternator not spinning fast enough to produce the necessary voltage.
If the water pump shelled out, then it could possibly creating a huge drag on the engine.
Try running without the belt(s) for a minute. If it runs normal start looking for the drag.
#3
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
Posts: 8,601
Likes: 0
Received 137 Likes
on
121 Posts
I would set timing at 10, and try to re adjust the carb. Set mixture screws to 2 turns rich. That should make any engine run. Set idle speed to 650-700.
Headlights dimming is a direct result of the alternator not spinning fast enough to produce the necessary voltage.
If the water pump shelled out, then it could possibly creating a huge drag on the engine.
Try running without the belt(s) for a minute. If it runs normal start looking for the drag.
Headlights dimming is a direct result of the alternator not spinning fast enough to produce the necessary voltage.
If the water pump shelled out, then it could possibly creating a huge drag on the engine.
Try running without the belt(s) for a minute. If it runs normal start looking for the drag.
#4
I would set timing at 10, and try to re adjust the carb. Set mixture screws to 2 turns rich. That should make any engine run. Set idle speed to 650-700.
Headlights dimming is a direct result of the alternator not spinning fast enough to produce the necessary voltage.
If the water pump shelled out, then it could possibly creating a huge drag on the engine.
Try running without the belt(s) for a minute. If it runs normal start looking for the drag.
Headlights dimming is a direct result of the alternator not spinning fast enough to produce the necessary voltage.
If the water pump shelled out, then it could possibly creating a huge drag on the engine.
Try running without the belt(s) for a minute. If it runs normal start looking for the drag.
About the alternator: it ran fine when the belts were taught but not tight; now they're tight. Would the belts being tighter make it difficult for it to turn?
Also, what exactly does shelled out mean?
Thank you for your help, I'll be testing these things
#6
#7
Yeah I've known for a while that my booster hose is old and a little leaky, but not too bad. I remember it being difficult to find a replacement a long time ago for some reason.
And yeah I really want to rebuild the carb. I was planning on getting the kit from holley, but what's this Ford kit you mentioned? I have a Holley 2300
And yeah I really want to rebuild the carb. I was planning on getting the kit from holley, but what's this Ford kit you mentioned? I have a Holley 2300
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#8
#9
My bad, I thought you had a 2100. Cap off the booster port at the intake manifold and see if your idle problem goes away. I simply got 3' of the correct size vacuum hose to swap out the old line. And two band clamps of the right size. Don't tighten too much on the booster check valve side or you will have to replace that too. Mine really stumbled until I replaced that line.
#15
The marks are on the balancer, and look something like
ATC 0 / / / / / / / / / 10 / / / / / / / / / 20 / / / / / / / / / 30 BTC
I thought I'd be aiming for the 10, but if it needs to be on the BTC side then I was saying I'd aim for the 20. Still confused by the balancer, I don't know why ATC is written at 0 degrees before top dead center
ATC 0 / / / / / / / / / 10 / / / / / / / / / 20 / / / / / / / / / 30 BTC
I thought I'd be aiming for the 10, but if it needs to be on the BTC side then I was saying I'd aim for the 20. Still confused by the balancer, I don't know why ATC is written at 0 degrees before top dead center