Fuel gauge stuck (both tanks)
#1
Fuel gauge stuck (both tanks)
1969 F250 Camper Special
390
C6
The fuel gauge reading is stuck on both tanks, giving different levels for each, however.
After filling the main tank, I drove 16 miles, then parked the truck. 2 days later, when I got back in the truck, I noticed that the main tank gauge reading was 1/4 tank. I assumed that the float was stuck. I drove to Seattle (80 miles), using the main tank--the gauge stuck at 1/4. Because the truck gets 9-10 m.p.g. at best, I decided to switch over to the reserve tank for the return, not knowing what was left in the main tank. The reserve tank reading was just below 1/2 tank when I left Seattle. And that's exactly what it read when I arrived home. I can only guess how much gas is in either tank.
I tried searching the threads for this issue, but could not find anything that addresses the fuel gauge being stuck on both tanks. I've tried reading about sending units, but I have limited mechanical experience and knowledge, and am not sure whether the sending unit would be responsible for any of this.
Any comments would be appreciated.
390
C6
The fuel gauge reading is stuck on both tanks, giving different levels for each, however.
After filling the main tank, I drove 16 miles, then parked the truck. 2 days later, when I got back in the truck, I noticed that the main tank gauge reading was 1/4 tank. I assumed that the float was stuck. I drove to Seattle (80 miles), using the main tank--the gauge stuck at 1/4. Because the truck gets 9-10 m.p.g. at best, I decided to switch over to the reserve tank for the return, not knowing what was left in the main tank. The reserve tank reading was just below 1/2 tank when I left Seattle. And that's exactly what it read when I arrived home. I can only guess how much gas is in either tank.
I tried searching the threads for this issue, but could not find anything that addresses the fuel gauge being stuck on both tanks. I've tried reading about sending units, but I have limited mechanical experience and knowledge, and am not sure whether the sending unit would be responsible for any of this.
Any comments would be appreciated.
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#2
1967/72's with 25 gallon factory installed auxiliary fuel tank have a manual control selector valve located on the floor adjacent to the drivers side of the seat.
The selector switch is located below the instrument cluster on the drivers side of the dash. It only switches the fuel gauge from one tank to the other.
The original sending unit float is made from two pieces of copper soldered together. Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float settles towards the bottom of the tank.
The selector switch is located below the instrument cluster on the drivers side of the dash. It only switches the fuel gauge from one tank to the other.
The original sending unit float is made from two pieces of copper soldered together. Solder breaks down, gas seeps in, float settles towards the bottom of the tank.
#3
Try this...
Ok, maybe I can help. I just went through something similar.
It seems there are two common issues with the fuel gauge. One is the voltage regulator behind the dash that interacts with the gauge and the other is the sending unit.
To check the gauge and the voltage regulator thingy you can just take the main wire off the top of the sending unit behind the seat and ground it. When you ground it if the gauge and voltage regulator are working properly the gauge will immediately go to Full. I grounded mine to one of the screws in the top of the unit. Make sure your key is turned so the gauges have power. If you get the gauge to go Full, I suggest pulling the sending unit out.
I pulled my sending unit out after verifying that the gauge was good and found the float to be full of fuel. It was almost paper thin copper for the float and it just went bad. My gauge had been working fine and for no reason...other than time, it went bad.
Dennis Carpenter has the float for $5. Make sure you order something else you need or you'll pay double that just to ship it. I did his cheapest shipping and was amazed at how fast the shipping was. Came way sooner than estimated.
Hope that helps.
It seems there are two common issues with the fuel gauge. One is the voltage regulator behind the dash that interacts with the gauge and the other is the sending unit.
To check the gauge and the voltage regulator thingy you can just take the main wire off the top of the sending unit behind the seat and ground it. When you ground it if the gauge and voltage regulator are working properly the gauge will immediately go to Full. I grounded mine to one of the screws in the top of the unit. Make sure your key is turned so the gauges have power. If you get the gauge to go Full, I suggest pulling the sending unit out.
I pulled my sending unit out after verifying that the gauge was good and found the float to be full of fuel. It was almost paper thin copper for the float and it just went bad. My gauge had been working fine and for no reason...other than time, it went bad.
Dennis Carpenter has the float for $5. Make sure you order something else you need or you'll pay double that just to ship it. I did his cheapest shipping and was amazed at how fast the shipping was. Came way sooner than estimated.
Hope that helps.
#4
#6
I tried
Hi,
While I am definitely learning new stuff every day on this site, I did go to my local Ford dealer. I am not happy to say that even with the part number in hand they refused to look it up. The second I said the year of my truck, '72, they shot back with obsolete. Didn't matter I had a part number. I wanted to get a condensor too, and same thing. They flat out refused.
I was shocked and amazed. Obviously I'll never go back there. They clearly just wanted to sell new cars as this was the first time I ever had a kid open the door to the Parts Dept. That was this kids job mind you.
While I am definitely learning new stuff every day on this site, I did go to my local Ford dealer. I am not happy to say that even with the part number in hand they refused to look it up. The second I said the year of my truck, '72, they shot back with obsolete. Didn't matter I had a part number. I wanted to get a condensor too, and same thing. They flat out refused.
I was shocked and amazed. Obviously I'll never go back there. They clearly just wanted to sell new cars as this was the first time I ever had a kid open the door to the Parts Dept. That was this kids job mind you.
#7
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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#8
Thanks to all who have replied.
A couple of you referred to the "float", how and where to order it, etc.
I admit to not being mechanically knowledgeable, but wouldn't the offending part be common to both tanks, main and reserve, since they are affected similarly? The only common parts that I can think of are the sending unit, the switch under the driver's seat that points to the gas tank in use, and the switch under the dash that points the gauge to the tank in use. Have I missed something in the thread?
A couple of you referred to the "float", how and where to order it, etc.
I admit to not being mechanically knowledgeable, but wouldn't the offending part be common to both tanks, main and reserve, since they are affected similarly? The only common parts that I can think of are the sending unit, the switch under the driver's seat that points to the gas tank in use, and the switch under the dash that points the gauge to the tank in use. Have I missed something in the thread?
#9
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
Posts: 7,592
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Trucks that have 2 tanks the floats are the same, but the sending units our not as they have a different drop down height.
Brass Float - Gas Tank Sending Unit - Hollow - Ford Parts
orich
Brass Float - Gas Tank Sending Unit - Hollow - Ford Parts
orich
#10
I'm starting to think that this is an electrical issue. If each tank has its own float and its own sending unit, and the problem (a stuck fuel gauge) occurs whichever tank is operative--and the gauge reads differently for each tank, then the only other devices that are common to both tanks are electrical: switches, wiring, etc.
#11
C0AZ-9202-B (replaced B7A-9202-A) .. Fuel Sending Unit Float / Available from Ford - MSRP: $17.06
Applications: 1957/79 Passenger Cars/Trucks, 1961/79 Econolines & 1966/79 Bronco's.
Most parts guys in todays world don't give a damn about older vehicles. The second you mention the year, the clucks say OBSOLETE!
Note: Carpenter sells a one piece brass float for around 5 bucks.
Applications: 1957/79 Passenger Cars/Trucks, 1961/79 Econolines & 1966/79 Bronco's.
Most parts guys in todays world don't give a damn about older vehicles. The second you mention the year, the clucks say OBSOLETE!
Note: Carpenter sells a one piece brass float for around 5 bucks.
#12
#13
Hi,
While I am definitely learning new stuff every day on this site, I did go to my local Ford dealer. I am not happy to say that even with the part number in hand they refused to look it up. The second I said the year of my truck, '72, they shot back with obsolete. Didn't matter I had a part number. I wanted to get a condensor too, and same thing. They flat out refused.
I was shocked and amazed. Obviously I'll never go back there. They clearly just wanted to sell new cars as this was the first time I ever had a kid open the door to the Parts Dept. That was this kids job mind you.
While I am definitely learning new stuff every day on this site, I did go to my local Ford dealer. I am not happy to say that even with the part number in hand they refused to look it up. The second I said the year of my truck, '72, they shot back with obsolete. Didn't matter I had a part number. I wanted to get a condensor too, and same thing. They flat out refused.
I was shocked and amazed. Obviously I'll never go back there. They clearly just wanted to sell new cars as this was the first time I ever had a kid open the door to the Parts Dept. That was this kids job mind you.
Float...COAZ9202B
condensor....C9AZ12300A (DC13A)
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