Blown Head Gasket NO PUKING
#1
Blown Head Gasket NO PUKING
Is it possible to have blow head gasket and no puking from Degas Bottle. I have tried to put pressure (15 psi) using Mityvac on degas bottle and it doesn't hold pressure but I have no puking out of Degas, thoughts?
Specs:
2006
187K Miles
Flush and Filled with ELC
Coolant Filter
Sinister EGR Delete
Specs:
2006
187K Miles
Flush and Filled with ELC
Coolant Filter
Sinister EGR Delete
#2
#3
#4
I have a new degas tank and cap, new radiator and hoses. I know I need to replace the oil cooler b/c I can get temps up to 35 degrees difference in EOT and ECT. This is a new to me truck and I'm going to break down to do oil cooler dummy plugs and clean turbo also STC Fitting. I am worried about getting down to that point and then find out I have head gasket issue. I have no coolant loss and haul my Polaris Ranger in the bed so I know I'm putting heavy load but no puking. Only problem I have besides EOT/ECT temp is takes long time to crank and recently acts like motor is real tight because it's hard to turn over and takes a long time to crank. Once it cranks I get white smoke till it warms up and it runs like crap till warm then everything seems fine. FICM is good reading 48.5 I have two new batteries. Heard something about A/C compressor locking up could be problem. I wonder if the white smoke is from water leaking in combustion chamber or maybe I have injector loading up fuel or could be glow plug. I only drive truck maybe once a week and then it is only 20 miles or so.
The mityvac I have does vacuum and pressure.
The mityvac I have does vacuum and pressure.
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#8
I have a new degas tank and cap, new radiator and hoses. I know I need to replace the oil cooler b/c I can get temps up to 35 degrees difference in EOT and ECT. This is a new to me truck and I'm going to break down to do oil cooler dummy plugs and clean turbo also STC Fitting. I am worried about getting down to that point and then find out I have head gasket issue. I have no coolant loss and haul my Polaris Ranger in the bed so I know I'm putting heavy load but no puking. Only problem I have besides EOT/ECT temp is takes long time to crank and recently acts like motor is real tight because it's hard to turn over and takes a long time to crank. Once it cranks I get white smoke till it warms up and it runs like crap till warm then everything seems fine. FICM is good reading 48.5 I have two new batteries. Heard something about A/C compressor locking up could be problem. I wonder if the white smoke is from water leaking in combustion chamber or maybe I have injector loading up fuel or could be glow plug. I only drive truck maybe once a week and then it is only 20 miles or so.
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Thanks for detailed description it helps
Sounds like an Injector problem to me and possible hydrolock problem
if it trying to hydrolock then don't drive or start it at all
Time for a Bubble test first thing
then if that Passes you can branch a mechanical gauge off the degass bottle line and drive it see if it peaks out over 12psi
Cool I didn't know that
Mine must be a cheaper version or I don't know how to use it
#9
#11
With no EGR cooler, on the truck it would be hard to imagine that being the problem . Missed that on your first post.
I don't have AE but I've read it does do a contrabution/balance test. It's a bit fussy and only displays at idle though. If it's been going on awhile it may have stored a code for c/b and help you find the offending cylinder.
As Blade35 suggested the bubble test is quick and easy and can point you to the bad injector also. Instructions are in the Tech folder. Basically you crank the engine over with the fuel pump disabled and watch for bubbles in the fuel filter housing. Combustion pressure is forced through the leaking injector back through the fuel line to the filter housing.
The glow plug system is considered emission equipment and is very good at throwing correct codes and setting a Check Engine Light. If you had a problem there you will usually have a CEL.
Leaking head gaskets almost always over pressureze the cooling system. Put a gauge on the bottle, hook it on the wiper blade and take it for a ride. At full temp it should stay under 10-12psi when accelerating.
Not sure what condition your MityVac is in but mine has had brake fluid in the pump part a couple of times and that can cause a slight leak. New o-rings can get it back in working order. If it's ok and you adapter set-up isn't leaking you should be able to find the coolant leak. The heater control valve can drip behind the engine(if your truck has one), that's a hard one to find until it get bad. Also the coolant line across the back of the engine that connects to the degas bottle can develop a stealth leak.
I don't have AE but I've read it does do a contrabution/balance test. It's a bit fussy and only displays at idle though. If it's been going on awhile it may have stored a code for c/b and help you find the offending cylinder.
As Blade35 suggested the bubble test is quick and easy and can point you to the bad injector also. Instructions are in the Tech folder. Basically you crank the engine over with the fuel pump disabled and watch for bubbles in the fuel filter housing. Combustion pressure is forced through the leaking injector back through the fuel line to the filter housing.
The glow plug system is considered emission equipment and is very good at throwing correct codes and setting a Check Engine Light. If you had a problem there you will usually have a CEL.
Leaking head gaskets almost always over pressureze the cooling system. Put a gauge on the bottle, hook it on the wiper blade and take it for a ride. At full temp it should stay under 10-12psi when accelerating.
Not sure what condition your MityVac is in but mine has had brake fluid in the pump part a couple of times and that can cause a slight leak. New o-rings can get it back in working order. If it's ok and you adapter set-up isn't leaking you should be able to find the coolant leak. The heater control valve can drip behind the engine(if your truck has one), that's a hard one to find until it get bad. Also the coolant line across the back of the engine that connects to the degas bottle can develop a stealth leak.
#13
#14
Are you sure that the Mityvac is not the point of the leak?
EDIT : Benny depending on the model they can do Vacuum and Pressure
Also you can get an add-on part to give you the pressure option.
Very handy. Mine does both and it metal not plastic. Cost a lot more
but you can do more with it.
You might stores at one of the Big Box auto parts stores and
"rent" a pressure tester to verify. Also you will need the screw
on adaptors. Check both the cap and the system. If you are still
not holding pressure take some child's bubble juice and use that to
to spray on places to see if you get bubbles from air leaking out.
Sean
EDIT : Benny depending on the model they can do Vacuum and Pressure
Also you can get an add-on part to give you the pressure option.
Very handy. Mine does both and it metal not plastic. Cost a lot more
but you can do more with it.
You might stores at one of the Big Box auto parts stores and
"rent" a pressure tester to verify. Also you will need the screw
on adaptors. Check both the cap and the system. If you are still
not holding pressure take some child's bubble juice and use that to
to spray on places to see if you get bubbles from air leaking out.
Sean
#15
Well that explains it Mines the cheap Plastic one
I bought it to Bleed brakes and IT SUCKED for that always leaks
it works for things but always a Fight guess that's what I get for going cheap
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