So the wife says her truck is low on power. She thinks she knows what's wrong with it.




So I figure maybe she's right. I ask her how much boost she was making and she said, not enough.

So anyway, the next problem is this



Any suggestions on repairs before it gets worse? My truck did this over the belt area and I tried a few different types of glue or adhesive to get the outer skin back on and it never worked. I ended up trimming the loose stuff off mine, but I think she's a little more picky on how things look under the hood than I am.

Open to any suggestions that keep me from replacing the entire insulation.

 

I would try clear silacone rubber & try to get it pushed into the fibers.

 

i second that. we use a high temp RTV silicone to repair our foam insulated exhaust cowlings on the helicopter. i think it would work well in this application… although, i don't know if you can get it in pink

 

Brush on fireglass

 

So... did you fix that popped CAC boot yet?

 

May have to get a pink socket set to fix that.

 

Fire glass or fiber glass? I would think fiberglass would be too rigid and heavy and would cause more of the "skin" to pull loose.

Yes, that was the easy part.

 

I have always had good luck with 3M adhesive, (spray).
Spray on a coat to each piece, let sit for about 7 minutes or until slightly tacky then press together.

 

I tried that with mine when it started to come apart. It didn't work. The cushion backing isn't solid enough a substrate for the adhesive to hold. It just crumbles off and the piece droops back down.

 

You can try sliding some duck tape back there (I just learned "duck" tape is the original nickname for it, and I already knew it sucks at ducts). Place it halfway across the threshold of the opening, hoping to adhere it to the inside of the liner still in place... yet leaving plenty of sticky surface showing out the hole. Spray some of that 3M contact adhesive on the flap and let it get tacky. When ready, carefully close the flap (you have one shot at this) - making sure it lines up nice.

Once the flap is stuck in place, you might be able to find a sealer that looks OK and is heat-resistant - like black silicone.

Under normal circumstances, I wouldn't sweat the appearance of the repair... but that's a lotta pink for something allegedly out of sight.

 

Might try heat resistant aluminum foil tape, or stainless steel tape.

Go big. Make a nice big square or rectangle over the entire center area, as if it was intentionally that way from the factory.

Or, go bold. Fashion the aluminum foil tape into the shape of a heart. She can then pop the hood to all her friends, and they will know she is loved.

Or, go Ford. Find a blue oval sticker, and place the sticker over the torn area. I've done this on another Ford, and it looked OEM. I got the officially licensed Ford sticker through the Ford Racing catalog.

 

I would just remove the insulation entirely, but thats just me...

 

I myself plan on using Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner since my factory hoodliner is just nasty. There are actually a few up sides to using the Dynamat hoodliner but for me it a nicer cleaner look and is able to be cleaned. When I go to install this hoodliner I am also going to be installing a better under hood light. I already have the light and I just need to measure under the hood to see if 32"x54" is going to work. I used the Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner on a M/B 450SL I had and it worked well and stayed stuck to the hood for many years. I am pretty sure the under hood temp of Blackie is higher then the 450SL so I am hoping there won't be any issues with it staying stuck to the hood.
We will see.
Dynamat.com | The Hoodliner for Automotive and Restoration

By the way I am using a Bargman 34-78-517 #78 Series Porch/Utility Light with Switch for under the hood. It will be 110% better then the factory underhood light.

 

Interesting, but I'm going to guess no on the 32 x 54 working.

 

Chris I did measure the underhood today and 32x54 is alittle short but could work just not the way I want it to. I need to find a piece about 36x60 so I guess I am back to square 1 or see what a new OEM one would cost.
Sorry that wasn't any help...ooppss