So I managed to get the access panel off and the transmission top cover off. And, I got a glimpse of the forks and the inside of the transmission.

Damn! I don't think the forks are my problem! It doesn't look like there's any fork wear at all. The gears aren't chipped or burnt or anything. Damn! Here's some photos. Do my forks look good?

Also can someone confirm that I have the pre-96 forks? Or do I have the newer 96+ forks?

















I'm not sure what my problem is anymore. I'm guessing the slave cylinder or the clutch linkage.

Recall that my problem is the exact same as phoskins. I sometimes can't find 1st or 2nd or Reverse when stopped. Pumping the clutch doesn't appear to help either. This happens most frequently if I'm stopped on a hill. If I let it roll a little bit, I can ease it into 1st. I thought I had a worn fork that was causing me not to be able to get it into the gear properly.

My other problem is that it grinds a bit going into second. Double clutching doesn't help here, so I don't think its the synchromesh.

I... HATE... MY... M5OD

 

warren561, I haven't opened mine yet. Hearing your story, I'm even more scared to do so now! I have no idea what could be causing your problem. I don't know much about the forks, but they don't look worn to me! They do appear to be the 1996 forks, though, from what I've seen on the internet. I didn't mind my transmission until I started having trouble getting it into gear.....

Hopefully someone else will have an idea that can help! Thanks to all those who have posted replies already.

 

Have you bled the clutch? If so I would suggest doing so. And a complete fluid change for the tranny if it hasn't been done recently. I bet that could be it. Bleed it first. The pedal should disengage within the first 2-4 inches when first putting your foot on It

 

I have never bled a clutch before. Brakes, yes. Clutch, no.

I assume its the same principal? There's some sort of bleeder screw down on the transmission somewhere? Pump clutch, hold it down, open bleeder, close bleeder, add fluid, then pump clutch and repeat.

I thought the M5OD had an internal slave cylinder? If so, how do I get to the bleeder screw?

 

From what I can tell my clutch is working properly. I loosened the drain & fill plugs to make sure I could get them to turn. The little bit of fluid that leaked out looked pretty black. I'm surprised the Aamco owned by a family friend didn't say anything about dirty fluid when I had it checked out there.

My fluid may never have been changed! 165k miles! WTH !?

I guess some people just don't think about changing transmission fluid, especially on a manual. A few people I know have never even changed their automatic trans fluid and have 120k+ miles!!!

I have some Dexron/Mercon ATF & I am prepared to drain the fluid, open it up, and inspect my forks at least. I have a snake-like magnet to help pull any metal out of the gear box.

I don't think I'm up for doing a rebuild myself.

 

The drain plug on the M5OD already has a magnet on it. Mine was covered by metal filings when I changed my fluid. Just clean it off with a rag and re-install.

 

The bleeder is on the bell housing on the driver side. Just above where the line goes into the slave cylinder. You can access it from the outside. Its a 5/16th use a deep socket. If it can be loosened you can gravity feed it yourself. Or to pump it use a friend. Either way works well. Just make sure the reservoir stays full and the clutch isn't realesed when bleeder is open

 

Just to make sure. I need to ensure that the clutch remains fully depressed when the bleeder is open? The clutch pedal should be all the way to the floor when I open the bleeder.

 

^^ correct. Otherwise if you let the peddle back up it will pull air in through the bleeder and you'll be worse then when you started

 

I only mentioned the hand-held magnet because I've heard that not necessarily all the metal pieces stick to the magnet on the drain plug (I would imagine so, if the fluid's never been changed!). Have a good weekend, guys.

 

you do the same. keep us updated.

 

I just found this video for bleeding the clutch on a Ranger. Recall that the Ranger has the same M5OD as the F150.

Some VERY handy tips on how to diagnose the hydraulic clutch system. I need to get the GF to press the clutch while I observe the clutch plate and rod movement.


UGH. I sincerely hope that I don't have to pull the entire pressure hose to bench burp the air out.

 

After watching this video it looks like you would be able to do this with lifting the front end of the truck, then get a pry bar and pry the slave cylinder back. (your able to do this through the viewing port). this will push fluid back up the line, which would also push the bubbles back up into the reservoir if i am correct. i might do this for ****s and giggles tonight when im changing my right outer tie rod.

 

I opened the top cover on my transmission today. Gears look fine. One shift fork shows some wear. Changed my fluid, will be ordering a new fork once I'm sure which one I need. The fluid was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. The metal on the plug magnet didn't look like all that much. It shifts a little better with new fluid.
I will post photos later.
warren561, post back when you've done more work or investigation.

 

I haven't gotten around to bleeding my clutch yet. I can't get the stupid bleeder screw open. I've been spraying it with penetrating oil the last couple of days. Hopefully that helps.

I put the top cover back together last night. The forks are pristine. The gears are pristine. The shifter bushings are pristine.

I checked out the pedal box last night as well. Everything looks tight on it (meaning that the pedal bushings must be good). There's about 1/8" inch of play in the clutch master cylinder rod itself. So nothing's wrong with the clutch pedal linkages.

I'm wondering if 1/8" of play in the master cylinder is normal. I suspect it must be. Again, what I'm seeing is that I can push the master cylinder rod in about 1/8" before I get the heavy resistance of moving the master cylinder.

I'm going to try to mess with the bleeder screw again later this week. Will report back. Otherwise, I'm taking it in to the transmission shop to get them to bleed the damn thing. I got a quote for $100 to bleed and replace the bleeder screw.

Another interesting thing. The bleeder screw and bleeder tube doesn't seem to be attached to the bell housing itself. It wiggles around quite a bit. I am very afraid of breaking the line wrestling with this bleeder screw. Is it normal to be this loose?