Engine code help.
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Engine code help.
Hi guys just upgraded to my first diesel. It's a 2006 F250 4x4 with the 6.0l. I was out driving around the other day and the check engine light came on theses are the codes I pulled P0401 CNF, P0401 PND, and P0299. Does anyone know what they are and how to fix them? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Thanks for the response. Is there a way to check if the turbo is sticking? And is there a way to check if the turbo is shot?
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Hampstead, NC
You need to have some gauges for the truck. It's extremely important to keep an eye on a lot of different things.
It would be good to know what the boost is. A stuck turbo and EGR code sometimes go together. Can you hear a whistle from the tail pipe at idle? Do you get an cycle from the turbo? Whistle to no whistle in the exhaust?
It would be good to know what the boost is. A stuck turbo and EGR code sometimes go together. Can you hear a whistle from the tail pipe at idle? Do you get an cycle from the turbo? Whistle to no whistle in the exhaust?
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Freshman User
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
You need to have some gauges for the truck. It's extremely important to keep an eye on a lot of different things.
It would be good to know what the boost is. A stuck turbo and EGR code sometimes go together. Can you hear a whistle from the tail pipe at idle? Do you get an cycle from the turbo? Whistle to no whistle in the exhaust?
It would be good to know what the boost is. A stuck turbo and EGR code sometimes go together. Can you hear a whistle from the tail pipe at idle? Do you get an cycle from the turbo? Whistle to no whistle in the exhaust?
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Breckenridge, TX
VGT cycling:
You can hear it cycle starting at 0:45 to 1:20 (ignore his "EGR cycling" comment, he used the wrong acronym)
It should cycle without revving the engine. I can't remember the exact parameters for when it does it, but it does it at idle.
Boost on the dash gauge should be 0-28psi, with over 28psi throwing an overboost code. It's not a "real gauge" because it compares manifold pressure to barometric pressure, so it's a derived value based on two sensor readings. The only way to actually know what boost pressure is is to hook a mechanical gauge into the intake elbow, but for most purposes using the calculated value works. 10-20psi is normal for unloaded driving.
Look up either the DashBoss (if you have an iPhone) or Torque apps (android). It's a digital gauge setup that will let you do a lot of things for cheap.
It should cycle without revving the engine. I can't remember the exact parameters for when it does it, but it does it at idle.
Boost on the dash gauge should be 0-28psi, with over 28psi throwing an overboost code. It's not a "real gauge" because it compares manifold pressure to barometric pressure, so it's a derived value based on two sensor readings. The only way to actually know what boost pressure is is to hook a mechanical gauge into the intake elbow, but for most purposes using the calculated value works. 10-20psi is normal for unloaded driving.
Look up either the DashBoss (if you have an iPhone) or Torque apps (android). It's a digital gauge setup that will let you do a lot of things for cheap.
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VGT cycling:
2003 Ford F-350 6.0 PowerStroke -- VGT cycling - YouTube
You can hear it cycle starting at 0:45 to 1:20 (ignore his "EGR cycling" comment, he used the wrong acronym)
It should cycle without revving the engine. I can't remember the exact parameters for when it does it, but it does it at idle.
Boost on the dash gauge should be 0-28psi, with over 28psi throwing an overboost code. It's not a "real gauge" because it compares manifold pressure to barometric pressure, so it's a derived value based on two sensor readings. The only way to actually know what boost pressure is is to hook a mechanical gauge into the intake elbow, but for most purposes using the calculated value works. 10-20psi is normal for unloaded driving.
Look up either the DashBoss (if you have an iPhone) or Torque apps (android). It's a digital gauge setup that will let you do a lot of things for cheap.
2003 Ford F-350 6.0 PowerStroke -- VGT cycling - YouTube
You can hear it cycle starting at 0:45 to 1:20 (ignore his "EGR cycling" comment, he used the wrong acronym)
It should cycle without revving the engine. I can't remember the exact parameters for when it does it, but it does it at idle.
Boost on the dash gauge should be 0-28psi, with over 28psi throwing an overboost code. It's not a "real gauge" because it compares manifold pressure to barometric pressure, so it's a derived value based on two sensor readings. The only way to actually know what boost pressure is is to hook a mechanical gauge into the intake elbow, but for most purposes using the calculated value works. 10-20psi is normal for unloaded driving.
Look up either the DashBoss (if you have an iPhone) or Torque apps (android). It's a digital gauge setup that will let you do a lot of things for cheap.
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Does the engine have to be up to operating temperature for it to start cycling or will it just start doing it right after I start it?
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,335
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From: Breckenridge, TX
It's a good sign, yes. The truck commands VGT but doesn't monitor an actual reading, so if you hear the sweep it means the vanes are most likely free and moving.
For the underboost code, now you need to check the CAC boots and pipe to make sure there aren't any boost leaks on the pressure side of the intake.
For the underboost code, now you need to check the CAC boots and pipe to make sure there aren't any boost leaks on the pressure side of the intake.
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