longbed

Please help me out. I THINK the difference in preload numbers MIGHT be: my #'s are preload on just pinion gear and nothing else. your #'s COULD be pinion preload after carrier and axle shafts are installed. I have read somewhere that the additional force with carrier and axle shafts installed should add "X" % of force in inch pounds. (added to .015-.019) and that would put it in the range of your #'s. I say your #'s because you pointed it out. I called local dealer and had them look it up per V.I.N. he gave me the same # you did. Later I recalled reading about pinion only and all together #'s.

Does this sound correct?? Ayone? I will call West Coast Diff. Friday for more advice.

 

saxman

Yes the particles, the carrier movement sometime in the last 5k miles and the 122k miles of use have all affected the gears. I will check gear pattern with compound and adjust as needed. This should eliminate most all noise. We shall see!!
I have a full shim kit for carrier and pinion but will start with original setting. The visible pattern in the ring gears teeth is centered and no scoring, scratch marks, pits, etc.

Fingers are crossed!!

 

Don't know how much I read on here and other sites, also watching you tube videos. A lot of research to get to the assembly part of the project and a few sleepless nights. notice time of post.

Understand all principles and theories. Need to clarify the different preload numbers but otherwise feel good about completing this rebuild. Just need time away from work to get it done.

 

longbed

Does you manual say what needs to be installed to check preload? Seal? Seal & carrier? Carrier and no seal.

Most of what I've learned suggests to crush the sleeve and get it very close without the slinger or seal. then add those and finalize specs.

 

The preload is measured with the pinion installed without the carrier. Assemble in this order: pinion shim, inner bearing, crush sleeve, outer bearing, oil slinger, pinion seal, flange, nut. You will need something to hold the flange while tightening the nut because the crush sleeve takes a lot of force to collapse. Tighten the nut until all of the play is out of the bearings then start tightening the nut a little at a time until you get the proper preload. The spec is 16-29 in-lbs so anywhere between that is fine. I try to split the difference. After the pinion is installed then install the carrier and set the backlash. The spec for that is .008-.012 thousanths. Again I try to split the difference. Once the backlash is right then install the axles. I assume you are reusing the ring and pinion and pinion shim so the pinion depth and gear pattern should be right.

 

longbed

Thanks! I'll shoot for 21-23 preload and .010" backlash. Thats what I needed clarified. You might have seen my other post where I ask for specs and got yet another set of numbers. I know everyone is trying to help but it starts getting confusing.

Last few weeks I've wanted overtime and been working straight 8's. Now that I have a pressing project there working me 12-13 hours each day. Hope to get off early today and get going on this diff.

 

I have everything together!

Preload ended up at 27 inch pounds. Higher than I was shooting for but I was at 18 and just barely moved the nut. checked again and was at 27. Whacked both end of the gear with a plastic hammer a few times then checked again and stayed at 27. Its with in speck and good.

Backlash is at .011. Started with original set up and the carrier wouldn't even go in. started removing .0055 from both sides until it would fit by whacking it in with that plastic hammer. Nice and snug! Then started checking pattern and adjusted until it's as good as going to get. Pattern was better at .006 backlash but I read two instruction sheets that say "too close" will result in noise and possible over heating and/or destruction. I made my last adjustment to .011.

The gear pattern is not optimal but Im dealing with a used set of gears. That same set of instructions explained to focus on the coast side when adjusting used gears. According to the gear pattern pictures the coast side falls in the acceptable category and the drive side baaaarrrely skims in at that range.

Installed cover with RTV, after an hour I torqued it to spec. and let it cure over night. Later today I will fill the differential and test drive it with fingers crossed.

 

Sometimes I'm very impressed with my ability and skill level for someone thats never had any training. Then other times I'm surprised I can feed myself! At the beginning of this post I explained that I had drained and checked the diff. several times. Each time I fought with squeezing the oil in the fill hole. Tried hoses on the bottle and seemed to get more oil on me than in the diff.. While I was under there this time I saw the diff. vent hose and disconnected it from the bottom of the bed. Now it will be much easier to fill the differential! Wish I would have seen that 20k miles ago!!

 

Good job taking this on!

Sent from my Telegraph using IB AutoGroup

 

That was a bust also! I guess its just a pain and mess unless you get the fancy plunger doohicky thing.

Good news! I can feed myself!

 

Yesterday about noon I filled the diff. with oil and friction modifier and drove it for 6 miles then let it rest for an hour, then 10 m. and rest, then 18 m. and rest. All at varying speeds up to 60 mph and stop and go driving. The last drive was to work. 22 miles, mostly at 70 mph with a long rest and 22 miles back with along rest. This brings me to now.

ZERO NOISE!!! YAH!!!

The hard work seems to be a success!

After the 22 mile drive at 70 mph, the diff. housing at the front (pinion end) was pretty hot! I could put my hand there and leave it but it was hot. Any reason for concern?? Am I just paranoid?

 

The bearings are seating in. See what it does in a few hundred miles. Rear ends are going to be warm after driving at 70mph

 

I use a pump. You can find them near the marine stuff.

 

Thanks MR CMK


REFLECTIONS:

I only know what the (reputable with personal knowledge) pro quoted me, $600 - $700. I don't know what the final cost might have been. Going into this project, it was just replacing the axle shaft bearings. Then I found the bad carrier bearing and after much thought I decided I could replace the carrier bearings. Then when everything else was out of the diff. housing I determined the pinion bearings needed to be replaced also. If I had known all of this before beginning this project, I would have taken it to the (reputable) pro. Even if he charged me $800 it would have been worth it to let him worry about everything.

 

But now that you have finished it you know what is inside there and that it isn't all that bad.