Just a FYI.

I have been dealing with bad chucking from the moment we got our trailer. It came with a Lippert Trailair pin box.




Adjusting air in our Trailair pin, and changing from a 08 4x4 SRW to a 13 4x2 DRW made no difference in regards to chucking (not that I expected it to).

We were at the national Coachmen rally this last week in Goshen, IN and Lippert was there with excellent prices, so we decided to spring for a Trailair Triglide.



I just wanted to say that the ride home was much better. We had been over I-69 from the border of Indiana to Charlotte, MI several times, and it was much easier on our kidneys this last time. The proverbial "we don't even know it's back there"? No, but that is bs anyway.

I can say it is a nice step up.

If your having minimal chucking, I doubt it is worth it. But if your dealing with chucking that is trying to separate your torso from the rest of your body, well worth it. Especially if you compare to the cost of a revamped trailer suspension.

We were hauling the swivel wheel and bike.

 

We have that pin box on our trailer. Love it! We do still get some chucking on really rough roads, but overall, it is not bad at all.

I have seen a mod that someone did that added 2 more shocks to it and with that they claim there is hardly any chucking at all even on rougher roads. I am not sure it is worth the price of the extra shocks or not.

 

If you ever come across that mod again, post it up. It would be an interesting read for sure.

 

I can't find the discussion thread that went with this right now, but here is the write up of the mod itself.

Trailair Hitch Upgrade | You've landed on MyVoltageRV.com

 

Interesting thread.. I will be keeping this in mind as I build my knowledge base around towing heavy fifth wheel units..
Having an engineering background, I have to say that I'm not too crazy about the way the other modification was done to add two additional damper shocks to the assembly. At the very least, I would not just get 9" 1/2" hardware store bolts, but I would find those bolts in Grade 8. Those bolts in the other thread mentioned are in a real challenging situation with opposing bending moments that will work harden and snap the bolts (minimally) if not stress the original upper mounting bracket to the point of failure.
It seems that prices for these pin boxes are all over the map.
Very interesting indeed..
Thanks for the thread Thomas! Reps given!!!

 

I would have to agree with you, Grade 8's would certainly make sense. I had to re-read the mod as I thought he had said that. The guy that came up with this belongs to another forum I am with so I will see if I can get him to post up an "after action" on how it has worked out over time.

 

That is an interesting article. I am not sure I want to go that route. I don't have much up/down issues, as much as chucking. Still, food for thought.

 

I eliminated my chucking problem for a lot less that that Trail Air.... simply installed a new in-bed hitch. Anderson Ultimate: http://www.andersenhitches.com/Catal...onnection.aspx

 

Looks like you have to have a gooseneck ball already in your truck? Would have to add that to the cost. I guess it is just a ball extension with an adaptor to fit a pin box.

What is the advantage over just putting a gooseneck pin box adaptor on?

And how does a rigid connection eliminate chucking?

Course in the video, they are hooking to a mor ryde pin, so that would help with chucking.

 

I understand that the Anderson is lighter than a normal fifth wheel hitch. However, since it is still connecting the truck to the trailer with a fixed point, I do not understand the physics that would reduce chucking without some sort of damper such as what the Trailaire provides. Could you perhaps explain how this is possible?

 

I can not "explain" the physics of it, I can only say that it eliminated THE CHUCKING THAT I experienced with the REESE.

I do NOT have the Mor-Ride, I have the stock Lippert.

 

Ok, cool, glad it works for you. Been doing some reading, looks like there is less chucking because of less movement between the TV and the FW. A tighter fit, if you will.

What do you mean by stock Lippert? A solid box? Or a trailair?

 

This one

 

I have often thought that might be the best route to go. I have minimal chucking so don't think it is worth it for me.

 

I'll take your word for it, but it is still interesting, to me at least, how it is possible. But what the hey, you can't argue with success.