I let the truck sit for 8 months... new battery will turn it, but it won't start
#1
I let the truck sit for 8 months... new battery will turn it, but it won't start
Most likely bad gas, but I'd like some simple input on the things to check first. I know I had it running briefly in about January, but it had bad gas. Since then I've put more fresh gas in it, and SeaFoam.
I just started driving a motorcycle and another vehicle I bought, so I let the truck sit too long.
Could the injectors have got plugged up? Can I pull an injector and actually see fuel pulses if I turn it over (I've never pulled an injector before)? Oh, wait... if the injectors are press-fit to the fuel rail, I guess I can't pull one to see it work, huh?
I just started driving a motorcycle and another vehicle I bought, so I let the truck sit too long.
Could the injectors have got plugged up? Can I pull an injector and actually see fuel pulses if I turn it over (I've never pulled an injector before)? Oh, wait... if the injectors are press-fit to the fuel rail, I guess I can't pull one to see it work, huh?
#2
#3
OK, so I may be on to something, but I need verification.
I can get it to turn over with starting fluid, so spark good.
Turning it over just now, in sessions of less than 10 seconds to not burn out the starter, I heard a minor cylinder firing twice, but no real turn-over.
With the key "On" ... there is little to no pressure at the fuel rail.
The question: should fuel be pumping noticeably at the fuel rail check-valve if the key / ignition is "on" and, while it isn't turning over, I am pressing a screwdriver down into the valve to see if I get a flow or spray?
Thank you, but my question is - they are hard-mounted to the fuel rail. I can't see supplying an injector with fuel if it's pulled from its place under the fuel rail - or am I looking at this wrong?
Thanks for any help
I can get it to turn over with starting fluid, so spark good.
Turning it over just now, in sessions of less than 10 seconds to not burn out the starter, I heard a minor cylinder firing twice, but no real turn-over.
With the key "On" ... there is little to no pressure at the fuel rail.
The question: should fuel be pumping noticeably at the fuel rail check-valve if the key / ignition is "on" and, while it isn't turning over, I am pressing a screwdriver down into the valve to see if I get a flow or spray?
injectors are very simple to pull and test. remove bolts from intake manifold and simply pull off. some are a bit more difficult to do but it is done. and yes start with checking all the fuel lines and pump and filter. make sure you are getting fuel, then go from there. good luck.
Thanks for any help
#4
The fuel pump does not run continuous with the key to Run.
It only runs only a few seconds at key on then stops.
When cranking begins the pump is turned on by the PCM.
To check fuel pressure properly, use a gage and cycle the key on several times.
If you have a mix of old gas and new it may still not be good enough.
The pump draws from the bottom of the tank. Water and other sediments drop to the bottom where the pump picks up..
The pump could be clogged as well as the filter.
Your going to have problems until the old gas is out or used up and any thing in the lines are cleared.
Do not put additives in because it just dilutes the gas further and losens other contaminants.
Best thing is to drop the tank for cleaning, flush the fuel line, change the filter then use fresh gas and 'maybe' a cleaner when it will do the most good.
Good luck.
It only runs only a few seconds at key on then stops.
When cranking begins the pump is turned on by the PCM.
To check fuel pressure properly, use a gage and cycle the key on several times.
If you have a mix of old gas and new it may still not be good enough.
The pump draws from the bottom of the tank. Water and other sediments drop to the bottom where the pump picks up..
The pump could be clogged as well as the filter.
Your going to have problems until the old gas is out or used up and any thing in the lines are cleared.
Do not put additives in because it just dilutes the gas further and losens other contaminants.
Best thing is to drop the tank for cleaning, flush the fuel line, change the filter then use fresh gas and 'maybe' a cleaner when it will do the most good.
Good luck.
#5
The fuel pump does not run continuous with the key to Run.
It only runs only a few seconds at key on then stops.
When cranking begins the pump is turned on by the PCM.
To check fuel pressure properly, use a gage and cycle the key on several times.
If you have a mix of old gas and new it may still not be good enough.
The pump draws from the bottom of the tank. Water and other sediments drop to the bottom where the pump picks up..
The pump could be clogged as well as the filter.
Your going to have problems until the old gas is out or used up and any thing in the lines are cleared.
Do not put additives in because it just dilutes the gas further and losens other contaminants.
Best thing is to drop the tank for cleaning, flush the fuel line, change the filter then use fresh gas and 'maybe' a cleaner when it will do the most good.
Good luck.
It only runs only a few seconds at key on then stops.
When cranking begins the pump is turned on by the PCM.
To check fuel pressure properly, use a gage and cycle the key on several times.
If you have a mix of old gas and new it may still not be good enough.
The pump draws from the bottom of the tank. Water and other sediments drop to the bottom where the pump picks up..
The pump could be clogged as well as the filter.
Your going to have problems until the old gas is out or used up and any thing in the lines are cleared.
Do not put additives in because it just dilutes the gas further and losens other contaminants.
Best thing is to drop the tank for cleaning, flush the fuel line, change the filter then use fresh gas and 'maybe' a cleaner when it will do the most good.
Good luck.
#6
#7
Makes sense to start at the fuel pump then. Maybe I'll disconnect the fuel filter and see if I have any squirt or pump with the key on, or a turn-over.
Is there a way to see fuel come out of the fuel line with that ford fuel fitting down there?
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#12
OK, so I may be on to something, but I need verification.
I can get it to turn over with starting fluid, so spark good.
Turning it over just now, in sessions of less than 10 seconds to not burn out the starter, I heard a minor cylinder firing twice, but no real turn-over.
With the key "On" ... there is little to no pressure at the fuel rail.
The question: should fuel be pumping noticeably at the fuel rail check-valve if the key / ignition is "on" and, while it isn't turning over, I am pressing a screwdriver down into the valve to see if I get a flow or spray?
Thank you, but my question is - they are hard-mounted to the fuel rail. I can't see supplying an injector with fuel if it's pulled from its place under the fuel rail - or am I looking at this wrong?
Thanks for any help
I can get it to turn over with starting fluid, so spark good.
Turning it over just now, in sessions of less than 10 seconds to not burn out the starter, I heard a minor cylinder firing twice, but no real turn-over.
With the key "On" ... there is little to no pressure at the fuel rail.
The question: should fuel be pumping noticeably at the fuel rail check-valve if the key / ignition is "on" and, while it isn't turning over, I am pressing a screwdriver down into the valve to see if I get a flow or spray?
Thank you, but my question is - they are hard-mounted to the fuel rail. I can't see supplying an injector with fuel if it's pulled from its place under the fuel rail - or am I looking at this wrong?
Thanks for any help
#13
Too late, tank is half out.
Gonna drop it the rest of the way tomorrow, but the pump assembly is already disconnected from the tank, and the tank is hanging by ratchet straps.
We're gonna actually see if the fuel was bad enough to warrant cleaning out the entire tank, and hopefully figure out a way to test the fuel pump out of the tank.
Suggestions still being taken.
Gonna drop it the rest of the way tomorrow, but the pump assembly is already disconnected from the tank, and the tank is hanging by ratchet straps.
We're gonna actually see if the fuel was bad enough to warrant cleaning out the entire tank, and hopefully figure out a way to test the fuel pump out of the tank.
Suggestions still being taken.
#14
Too late, tank is half out.
Gonna drop it the rest of the way tomorrow, but the pump assembly is already disconnected from the tank, and the tank is hanging by ratchet straps.
We're gonna actually see if the fuel was bad enough to warrant cleaning out the entire tank, and hopefully figure out a way to test the fuel pump out of the tank.
Suggestions still being taken.
Gonna drop it the rest of the way tomorrow, but the pump assembly is already disconnected from the tank, and the tank is hanging by ratchet straps.
We're gonna actually see if the fuel was bad enough to warrant cleaning out the entire tank, and hopefully figure out a way to test the fuel pump out of the tank.
Suggestions still being taken.
#15
Suggestions????
Your still going to do what you will, suggestions or not.
The fuel pump normally is capable of 100 psi dead head pressure.
The regulator drops it to the 35 psi +/- range the fuel injector need to operate at, to attain there rated flow, the motor needs.
You can't tell much from a squirt test or an open pipe look.
Use a gage on the closed system to know, so the pump works into the pressure load it is designed to do.
Good luck.
Your still going to do what you will, suggestions or not.
The fuel pump normally is capable of 100 psi dead head pressure.
The regulator drops it to the 35 psi +/- range the fuel injector need to operate at, to attain there rated flow, the motor needs.
You can't tell much from a squirt test or an open pipe look.
Use a gage on the closed system to know, so the pump works into the pressure load it is designed to do.
Good luck.