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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 04:35 PM
  #1  
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What is this?

I have been trying to figure out what this is. After multiple times of going through my shop manual I have no idea. 2nd question is, should it be getting warm when the truck is running?
Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 05:01 PM
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I don't think that belongs. That's an ignition resistor block... like as used on a GM product.

WTF?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 05:04 PM
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Lloyd, I believe that is an aftermarket whatchamacallit, used with electronic ignition. 2nd I think so but let's wait for further.

Does your engine have elec. ign?


John
 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Lloyd, I believe that is an aftermarket whatchamacallit, used with electronic ignition. 2nd I think so but let's wait for further.

Does your engine have elec. ign?


John
honestly I have not cracked the distributor cap yet. That thing has been bugging me since i bought the truck. I'll crack the cap either this evening, or tomorrow and check. If it looks off, I'll take photos.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
I don't think that belongs. That's an ignition resistor block... like as used on a GM product.

WTF?
Considering the fact that some PO ripped all of the wiring out of the column for the signals and horn, and used a non-stock MC, I guess I shouldn't be surprised if it's some kind of GM part?
 
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Old Jun 28, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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Where is that resistor block hooked up to?
Inline wiring to the dizzy.

I've seen where some guys get confused when installing the Pertronix Igniter units and think they need one since they don't see one..
Orich
 
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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Mystery solved

Cracked the distributor cap and found points & condenser. While there noted that the wire feeding the + side of the coil was purple. The same color as one of the wires from the resistor block. Ooched around under the dash and saw that the resistor wire is only a couple of inches long and that the green wire is tied into it. Of course the connection isn't taped, nor did they use a solderless connector either. Look like I will be running a new wire from the switch to the new coil when I install the pertronix kit tomorrow. Hopefully this week will see some more progress on my long list of items that need to get done to the truck.
Thanks for all the advice and opinions!
 
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 09:26 PM
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Given that "repair", I recommend doing a bumper-to-bumper "hack patrol" inspection to find what else may exist.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2014 | 09:32 PM
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That is a fire waiting to happen. Definitely need to do a complete harness inspection and repair.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 10:41 AM
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That is a power resistor, probably a ballast put between the ignition switch and coil in lieu of the "pink wire." It limits current to the points and yes, it will get warmish or mildly hot because its job is to swamp power, something like ten watts.
Pluck one side and try to start. If nothing, I am probably right. The next step is to measure the resistance of the coil primary and the resistor. You will find a few ohms each. You must measure exactly. Post up your results and I will go into the electrical section of the shop manual and compare. And tell us what coil you are using, stock or otherwise.
The thing should not be floating in the breeze but rather securely mounted to the firewall or another heat sink.
 

Last edited by CougarJohn; Jun 30, 2014 at 10:42 AM. Reason: spelling error
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 03:29 PM
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Some people are unaware of the following, so they install an aftermarket external ballast resistor.

COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CougarJohn
That is a power resistor, probably a ballast put between the ignition switch and coil in lieu of the "pink wire." It limits current to the points and yes, it will get warmish or mildly hot because its job is to swamp power, something like ten watts.<br />
Pluck one side and try to start. If nothing, I am probably right. The next step is to measure the resistance of the coil primary and the resistor. You will find a few ohms each. You must measure exactly. Post up your results and I will go into the electrical section of the shop manual and compare. And tell us what coil you are using, stock or otherwise.<br />
The thing should not be floating in the breeze but rather securely mounted to the firewall or another heat sink.
<br />
<br />
The coil looks stock. I have the pertronix ignitor 2 module and new coil to install, so this pos is going away. All of it is on hold right now due to being at the hospital with my mom. Once I get to the point to tackle this again I'll be updating.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Some people are unaware of the following, so they install an aftermarket external ballast resistor.

COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
That's what I'm thinking. They had no flipping clue that it could be replaced. Just like how the truck ended up with handicap pulls for arm rests..... And why the horn is a button on the dash. Some PO had no clue about DC,LMC,Obsolete parts, or any other supplier.
Inspire if this its still a fairly solid truck.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 08:24 PM
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new question

I"ve looked to see if there are any photos of how the ignition switch is wired so I can better understand what I am looking at. From what I have been able to tell, the PO tapped into the resistor wire between the switch and where it goes into another block which appears to be be somewhere around the light switch. The tap line is what is feeding the coil. Question is, how to make the repair. I've installed several radios in my time, but that about sums up my automotive electrical skills.
Where would be the best (correct) place to install the new wire to feed the coil since I plan on installing a Pertronix II unit?

Thanks for any and all advice.
 
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