1990 Bronco Mud/Trail Rig
#1
1990 Bronco Mud/Trail Rig
I want to build up my 1990 Bronco 5.8 into a Mud/Trail rig with also keeping it able to drive on the road when need be. What can I do to get more power out of my truck without spending a ton of money and what lifts would yall recommend? any feedback greatly appreciated!
#2
Headers ~ 170 - 300 depending on brand and what kind of plating.
Exhaust - depends on who does it, muffler type, etc.
Sixlitre tune up. ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K) - FSB Forums
Regearing, but that will cost ~ 1,000 for both axles give or take
Sorry for the long post about the lift, but Greystreak is quite the intelligent man.
Exhaust - depends on who does it, muffler type, etc.
Sixlitre tune up. ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K) - FSB Forums
Regearing, but that will cost ~ 1,000 for both axles give or take
Since you said you have already seen pictures of Bronco's with 33's and 4" of suspension lift I won't tell you to have a look at the gallery with Greystreak in it.
What I can tell you is that lifting a TTB-equipped truck mandates that you be prepared for alignment concerns. Nothing is worse than chewing through a brand new set of 33's because you can't get the alignment to specs. Now, with that in mind, be aware that the ONLY way to adjust caster AND camber with a TTB front axle is by rotating the adjustment shims around the upper ball-joint studs. The shims are round and fit into the hole in the upper bracket. The holes are too big for the ball-joint stud without them so they MUST be used. The shims have a hole in them for the ball-joint studs. This hole is bored off-center so that as the shim is rotated in the bracket the stud moves the steering knuckle either inboard/outboard/forward/aft. Since this movement affects BOTH caster AND camber as the shim is rotated, you can only get so much adjustment to camber before affecting caster and vice-versa.
With all that said, there are a handful of folks who make shims with the hole for the ball-joint stud bored further off center than the OEM shims. (Ford and Superlift both to my knowledge). However, there is ONLY ONE suspension lift manufacturer that actually provides additional alignment adjustment in their lift equipment. (For those of you who will chime in and b!†ch that I am "advertising", shut up). This is fact, nothing more nothing less. Tuff Country is the only suspension lift manufacturer that provides adjustable radius arm pivot mounts and adjustable axle pivot mounts. With the adjustable pivot bolts at the radius arm mounting you get an additional +/-2.25º of caster adjustment that no F-series with a TTB front end EVER had. The same is true for the camber adjustment at the axle pivot mount bolts. This is IN ADDITION to the ball-joint shims the provide mush less adjustment before affecting the other settings.
Now you are asking, GS, really? How bad can it really be with just 4" of lift? Well, let me put it this way, the pros that align every vehicle I own were very glad that I put Tuff Country under Greystreak because they told me then, that with the OEM shims alone they could have gotten "close" but I would have had to sacrifice some caster to prevent camber from being off by enough to chew up the outboard shoulders of my new 33" BFG's.
I know thats my typical long-winded response but, if you are researching I have no doubt you have encountered much consternation and commentary about alignment with front axles between 1980-1996. I know I did and I opted for something that basically took the single most common issue with lifting a TTB axle and removed the problems. Take it for what its worth.
Oh, and do NOT buy Tuff Country's shocks! They are crap. Mine lost all paint and the shafts pitted within a year. Go with a name brand that you trust.
What I can tell you is that lifting a TTB-equipped truck mandates that you be prepared for alignment concerns. Nothing is worse than chewing through a brand new set of 33's because you can't get the alignment to specs. Now, with that in mind, be aware that the ONLY way to adjust caster AND camber with a TTB front axle is by rotating the adjustment shims around the upper ball-joint studs. The shims are round and fit into the hole in the upper bracket. The holes are too big for the ball-joint stud without them so they MUST be used. The shims have a hole in them for the ball-joint studs. This hole is bored off-center so that as the shim is rotated in the bracket the stud moves the steering knuckle either inboard/outboard/forward/aft. Since this movement affects BOTH caster AND camber as the shim is rotated, you can only get so much adjustment to camber before affecting caster and vice-versa.
With all that said, there are a handful of folks who make shims with the hole for the ball-joint stud bored further off center than the OEM shims. (Ford and Superlift both to my knowledge). However, there is ONLY ONE suspension lift manufacturer that actually provides additional alignment adjustment in their lift equipment. (For those of you who will chime in and b!†ch that I am "advertising", shut up). This is fact, nothing more nothing less. Tuff Country is the only suspension lift manufacturer that provides adjustable radius arm pivot mounts and adjustable axle pivot mounts. With the adjustable pivot bolts at the radius arm mounting you get an additional +/-2.25º of caster adjustment that no F-series with a TTB front end EVER had. The same is true for the camber adjustment at the axle pivot mount bolts. This is IN ADDITION to the ball-joint shims the provide mush less adjustment before affecting the other settings.
Now you are asking, GS, really? How bad can it really be with just 4" of lift? Well, let me put it this way, the pros that align every vehicle I own were very glad that I put Tuff Country under Greystreak because they told me then, that with the OEM shims alone they could have gotten "close" but I would have had to sacrifice some caster to prevent camber from being off by enough to chew up the outboard shoulders of my new 33" BFG's.
I know thats my typical long-winded response but, if you are researching I have no doubt you have encountered much consternation and commentary about alignment with front axles between 1980-1996. I know I did and I opted for something that basically took the single most common issue with lifting a TTB axle and removed the problems. Take it for what its worth.
Oh, and do NOT buy Tuff Country's shocks! They are crap. Mine lost all paint and the shafts pitted within a year. Go with a name brand that you trust.
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