Do I have to pull the heads off to get to the lifters?

The more I read, the more I suspect that I have a bent pushrod. And if that's the case, maybe a bad lifter. I'm going to pop the valve covers off soon and do a compression check to identify the bad cylinder(s). Once I find a bad one, I'll pull the push rods out. But is it possible to change the lifters without pulling the heads?

-Matt

 

You should be able to see a bent pushrod without doing a compression check. I found mine that way.

 

You just replaced the bent pushrod and went on your merry way?

 

Yes sir!

After I found the bent pushrod, I did a leak down test to see if my valves where bent and they weren't.

 

Pull the pushrods and roll em across a piece of glass.
Put them back in the hole you pull the from.
Change any bent one's and be done with it

 

Well, a visual inspection yields no culprits. To have the 2200 RPM wall, lack of power, and white smoke that I'm experiencing, I was expecting to see a pushrod bent up so bad that it would be a pretzel.

Compression test next.

 

Sounds like injector o-rings to me. Have you checked the fuel filter? Is it all black or does the fuel in the bowl have a dark color to it?

 

I don't think it's the o-rings. The injectors are new Rosewood Stage-1s that I put in a couple of months ago and symptoms persist. There is no oil in the fuel bowl. Plus, it's missing through the entire band.


Symptoms:
Misfires, won't rev above 2k ish, doesn't build much boost, blows white smoke when you get on it hard. There is no performance chip on this truck.

I've replaced:
All 8 injectors with Rosewood Stage-1
CPS with a new Ford dark gray

I've unplugged the following one at a time, with little to no difference:
EBPV (still unplugged)
ICP
EBP Sensor
MAP Sensor

I've checked the fuel pressure, 50-60 at idle and WOT

I bought Torque Pro for my Android, and this is what I'm seeing while driving. The low value is at idle, the high value is a never-exceeds value at WOT

IPR Duty Cycle 14-35%
HPOP Pressure (Confirmed with gauge) 650-2300psi
Injector Pulsewidth 1.1-1.7 ns
EBP 14.5-21
MAP 14.5-20
Boost (Confirmed with gauge) 0-5 psi

Torque Pro says there's no codes.

All of the common-to-injector pin (2 to 3 and 3 to 4) resistance measurements are dead-on 3.5 ohm.

Logic says that it's not building boost because it's not building EBP because it's not getting enough fuel. However, I am definitely getting white smoke and a misfire when I romp on it, which leads me to believe that the injectors are firing at the wrong time. I replaced the CPS with a new Ford unit and there was no difference.

All I have left is to do a compression test, IDM, and maybe the barometric pressure sensor.

I really want to slap another IDM on there and see what happens. AE would be awesome too, so that I can check Barometric Pressure, TPS (Although not likely the issue), buzz test, CCT, etc.

 

Have any of the pigtails to the valve cover gaskets been changed? If so, maybe who ever changed them miss wired 2 injectors. This would leave those 2 injectors firing at the wrong time.

 

Sorry, I lose track of who has done what to their trucks when there are so many threads floating around. It sounds like you have the basics covered.

If you're thinking pushrods, make sure you're looking at the rockers as well. They've been known to bend/break from time to time.

 

Well the UVCHs say "China" on them. But they appear to be in fantastic shape, and ohm out just fine, so I don't suspect that is the problem.

The pigtails don't appear to be spliced.

I'll let you guys know what the compression test yields.

 

You can replace the pig tails and wrap up the soldered connections so well that you can't tell you ever did anything. If 2 (or more) injector wires are crossed it wouldn't show up on an ohm meter. I'd place a small bet that's your problem.

I hope Jim (Hussler) checks this thread out. He has a list of the original wire colors to each injector. You'd have to open each loom and go back to the original wiring to know if they are hooked up correctly. That reminds me, you can tell if the pigtails have been replaced if any of the injector power wire colors are repeated at the plugs.

 

I doubt that is the issue if the trouble started all at once, but just in case here is the IDM pinout:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1314836746

It wouldn't be a terrible idea to pull the connector off the IDM and ohm all the way through the wiring from the injector plug to the IDM connector.

 

Compression test: Cold engine, full batteries, all glow plugs removed, 6 revolutions.

2: 360
4: 360
6: 380
8: 320

1: 360
3: 360
5: 360
7: 360

I re-tested number 8 twice and came out at 340-350 both times. It is indeed a little low, but not as low as it appeared at first.

 

Hole number 8 looks to be a little lower than the rest but I'd be thrilled if my compression test had returned those numbers...