Dreaded 2.3 8 spark plug change 95 ranger
#1
Dreaded 2.3 8 spark plug change 95 ranger
What's up guys just got done doing a spark plug change on my 95 2.3 5 speed ranger. I don't know what everyone complains about. It's not that bad with the right tools a little patience and TIME. If anybody is looking to do this make sure you have some time it's not hard or complicated it's just time consuming. A quick run down of parts:
8 plugs (motorcraft platinum's is what I used)
New spark plug wire set you will more than likely ruin at least one removing them.
Intake gasket set or upper intake gasket egr, idle air control valve gasket. If you get the gasket set the only thing you will need to buy is the egr gasket seperate.
Vacuum hose I do not remember what size it is but while your in there replace it because you will not get a chance to later unless you take it all part again. The hose goes to the throttle body and connects to a metal pipe and over to the valve before the charcoal canister on the driver side by the radiator.
Throttle body cleaner (DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT THROTTLE BODY CLEANER TO CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODY)
Tools: I used 1/4 and 3/8
1/4:
Ratchet
breaker bar
long extension
8mm accelerator cable cable cover
10mm throttle body egr valve two nuts holding emissions valve pass. Side.
3/8:
Ratchet
breaker bar
Short extension
long extension
universal adapter back two intake bolts
13mm intake bolts
16mm plugs
Two flat blade screw drivers
Small flat blade open plug separators and various other electrical clips on the throttle body
medium flat blade remove intake hose clamps
Remove the intake hose two clamps elec. Plug for air temp sensor. Remove two 10mm nuts on the pass. Side rear to get to back plug. Be for you go cranking on these get some pb blaster and let them soak while you remove the throttle body. 1 8mm screw removes the throttle cable cover another 8mm screw holds the throttle cable to its mount. Pop the throttle cable off and set it aside out of the way. Next you have 4 10mm bolts holding the throttle body this is were the long extension comes in, the bottom bolt towards the firewall is tucked In back there a flashlight will let you see it. Remove two electrical connectors remove those slide the throttle body out be careful you will feel some resistance this is where the new vacuum line will come in. Under the throttle body there is a vacuum line. Pull that loose. Move on to the egr valve two 10mm bolts these may need to be sprayed with pb blaster as well. Remove the vacuum line from the intake manifold towards the back on the driverside. I can't remember right off if it is 6 or 7 13mm volts for the intake. But there are two in the back that are a pain. Long extension and a 13mm socket push the egr valve towards the pass. Side and remove that bolt. Then just to the right of that is another 13 mm bolt. Pop off the elec. Connector for the windshield wiper get your universal adapter on your extension and 13mm socket and remove that bolt. The rest of the bolts are in plain sight and straight forward. Be careful when removing the upper intake the pic valve is below it and will fight with you an little to get it out but also the dirt and grease that comes with it will want to fall in the open intake. Now you are ready to do the plugs . When you put the plugs in do yourself or the next guy a favor and put some anti seize on the plugs. Make sure you use some dielectric grease on both ends of the wires and reassemble. Also put some anti seize on the bolts for the egr and the two nuts that hold the bracket on the pass. Side exhaust manifold.
There are people claiming to do this with the intake on but that was more frustrating than removing the intake and associated parts. I also cleaned the throttle body real good and removed the idle air control valve and cleaned it real good. I also sea foamed my truck as well if you want info on that let me know. Hopefully this helps somebody.
8 plugs (motorcraft platinum's is what I used)
New spark plug wire set you will more than likely ruin at least one removing them.
Intake gasket set or upper intake gasket egr, idle air control valve gasket. If you get the gasket set the only thing you will need to buy is the egr gasket seperate.
Vacuum hose I do not remember what size it is but while your in there replace it because you will not get a chance to later unless you take it all part again. The hose goes to the throttle body and connects to a metal pipe and over to the valve before the charcoal canister on the driver side by the radiator.
Throttle body cleaner (DO NOT USE ANYTHING BUT THROTTLE BODY CLEANER TO CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODY)
Tools: I used 1/4 and 3/8
1/4:
Ratchet
breaker bar
long extension
8mm accelerator cable cable cover
10mm throttle body egr valve two nuts holding emissions valve pass. Side.
3/8:
Ratchet
breaker bar
Short extension
long extension
universal adapter back two intake bolts
13mm intake bolts
16mm plugs
Two flat blade screw drivers
Small flat blade open plug separators and various other electrical clips on the throttle body
medium flat blade remove intake hose clamps
Remove the intake hose two clamps elec. Plug for air temp sensor. Remove two 10mm nuts on the pass. Side rear to get to back plug. Be for you go cranking on these get some pb blaster and let them soak while you remove the throttle body. 1 8mm screw removes the throttle cable cover another 8mm screw holds the throttle cable to its mount. Pop the throttle cable off and set it aside out of the way. Next you have 4 10mm bolts holding the throttle body this is were the long extension comes in, the bottom bolt towards the firewall is tucked In back there a flashlight will let you see it. Remove two electrical connectors remove those slide the throttle body out be careful you will feel some resistance this is where the new vacuum line will come in. Under the throttle body there is a vacuum line. Pull that loose. Move on to the egr valve two 10mm bolts these may need to be sprayed with pb blaster as well. Remove the vacuum line from the intake manifold towards the back on the driverside. I can't remember right off if it is 6 or 7 13mm volts for the intake. But there are two in the back that are a pain. Long extension and a 13mm socket push the egr valve towards the pass. Side and remove that bolt. Then just to the right of that is another 13 mm bolt. Pop off the elec. Connector for the windshield wiper get your universal adapter on your extension and 13mm socket and remove that bolt. The rest of the bolts are in plain sight and straight forward. Be careful when removing the upper intake the pic valve is below it and will fight with you an little to get it out but also the dirt and grease that comes with it will want to fall in the open intake. Now you are ready to do the plugs . When you put the plugs in do yourself or the next guy a favor and put some anti seize on the plugs. Make sure you use some dielectric grease on both ends of the wires and reassemble. Also put some anti seize on the bolts for the egr and the two nuts that hold the bracket on the pass. Side exhaust manifold.
There are people claiming to do this with the intake on but that was more frustrating than removing the intake and associated parts. I also cleaned the throttle body real good and removed the idle air control valve and cleaned it real good. I also sea foamed my truck as well if you want info on that let me know. Hopefully this helps somebody.
#2
I see you used motorcraft platinums. Is that whats recomended? Advanced auto said it called for "double platinum". Im running NGK platinum because i had regular autolites in it and it was getting around 13-14 mpg. Im having other issues with the truck also so that may be contributing to my poor mpg. Yea its not hard with the right tools.
#4
You don't have to pull the plenum. It makes for a far less frustrating job. I had 173k on my plugs and I wanted to pull the throttle body and clean it and the iac. Plus there was a vacuum line under there that I would never have seen if I didn't pull it. Needless to say the vacuum line was trash
#5
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