Went to work today & all ran fine, parked for approximately 3 hours & went to leave, I hit the starter & engine didn't turn over, acted like it was seized. Noticed fluid leaking out of back cylinder on passenger side. Pulled that plug & was super "wet", but didn't smell like gas, thought maybe the injector leaked down. Pulled rest of plugs & they all dry. Turned the engine over & blew out the cylinder. It was antifreeze. What could this be? Head gasket? Cracked head? Engine has 186,000 miles.
Thanks for any help.

 

My first and only guess is the head gasket. This engine is not know for that. Do not crank the engine until you have it solved. You could bend a connection rod.

 

Ya, I got a shop to take it in & they figured a head gasket also. I pulled the plug & "blew" it out before starting. Just hope nothing bent when I first tried it & figured our what was going on. Thanks

 

Beside the plug missing how did it sound?

Good Luck

 

Once I got it to start again, it was a little rough, but I think I didn't get the coil connected 100%. So I played it safe & had it towed in. Hope to know more tomorrow.

 

Ok, so the shop has diagnosed the real problem. Actually have a cracked head on the left side on back cylinder. It was caused from the fuel pump running lean. My bad on not realizing this!!! Now I get to pay! So heads up to all, please take note if having a hard time starting when engine is warm.

 

So a head, fuel pump, & Filter?
What did they quote for that? Just curious.

 

We heard about hydro-locked cylinder due to "stuck-open" injector and ruined engine. But, cracked head because of a "lean running fuel pump" ? this is a first timer .

I wonder if that V-10 ever got overheated (low coolant, low oil level ,etc.)

 

Imassman,

What were your warm hard starting symptoms? I'm working on a similar problem. Engine starts up fine cold, but doesn't want to start when warm. I've diagnosed it down to the fuel pressure leaking down and I'm thinking it is a bad check valve in the fuel pump return line, but I suppose it could be an injector that is stuck open such that the system does not hold pressure.

Does anyone have a test method to determine if pressure loss is fuel pump check valve vs injector? My pressure drops to zero almost instantly when the engine is shut off. I'd think if it was an injector, that it would take a bit of time to leak down, no?

(Edit) I just tried a quick test. I clamped off the return line (needle-nose vice grips with rubber tubing to protect the hose) and turned the ignition to the on position. The fuel pressure went to about 70 psi and held, even after pump quit running. It did not leak down, so I'm pretty sure mine is the fuel pump check valve. Disclaimer: I'm not sure I'd recommend this test method as I don't know if the rest of the fuel system is designed to handle the higher pressures...damage may occur.

 

You did a valid test. Congratulations.