RDS auxiliary tank install
#17
You could probably spend 1/4 to 1/3 of that and do the same with an Excursion tank.
My very first pickup, a Dodge 1978 SB PowerWagon, got it when I started working a Dodge dealership. Wasn't long before I ended up with a 36 gallon Ramcharger tank and parts to install in my truck.
I would think we could so the same with an Excursion tanks if so desired.
#18
thanks for the nudge with your great topic. I found out that RDS also has a 60 gal vertical tank, 13.5 in of floor space (model 71212). Found a return on Amazon, and free 2 day shipping with our prime account!..$495 total.
Amazon shipped the thing fedex two day, says 61 lbs! supposed to arrive today sometime. Already have the install kit, and a solenoid.. need a little hose and a couple adapters and bolts to secure it..
Amazon shipped the thing fedex two day, says 61 lbs! supposed to arrive today sometime. Already have the install kit, and a solenoid.. need a little hose and a couple adapters and bolts to secure it..
#19
I've used the tank for almost a month now. Pleased so far.
I did replace the fuel cap with a non locking version.
My solenoid gets fairly warm-hot. I called the distributer and was told a) that's normal, b) that's why they sell a replacement coil.
I think if the solenoid ever burns out I may just remove it and just use the 1/4 turn valve.
I did replace the fuel cap with a non locking version.
My solenoid gets fairly warm-hot. I called the distributer and was told a) that's normal, b) that's why they sell a replacement coil.
I think if the solenoid ever burns out I may just remove it and just use the 1/4 turn valve.
#20
thanks for the nudge with your great topic. I found out that RDS also has a 60 gal vertical tank, 13.5 in of floor space (model 71212). Found a return on Amazon, and free 2 day shipping with our prime account!..$495 total.
Amazon shipped the thing fedex two day, says 61 lbs! supposed to arrive today sometime. Already have the install kit, and a solenoid.. need a little hose and a couple adapters and bolts to secure it..
Amazon shipped the thing fedex two day, says 61 lbs! supposed to arrive today sometime. Already have the install kit, and a solenoid.. need a little hose and a couple adapters and bolts to secure it..
they really made this for folks without a cover, the filler is mounted way high.
the only fix is to cut the filler off, weld closed and install a flush mount race filler, but the baffle plate is right there..
so, back to the drawing board..
#21
So there "might be" the occasional draw back to the extra tankage
Stopped for fuel at my local "price war" station.
My other "regular" station is currently at 3.719.
So today's fill up did see an almost $23 dollar savings.
And for something different, I got to use the secondary dispenser and run the pump to fill up then pay inside.
Sure beats running the credit card 3 times to fuel up.
Stopped for fuel at my local "price war" station.
My other "regular" station is currently at 3.719.
So today's fill up did see an almost $23 dollar savings.
And for something different, I got to use the secondary dispenser and run the pump to fill up then pay inside.
Sure beats running the credit card 3 times to fuel up.
#22
Northern tool had a sale on RDS tanks last week, but none in stock. a call to the manager got me within $20 of the sale price... so I am now the proud owner of a 60 gal toolbox tank.
fits nice under my tonneau cover.
got to get an electric valve.
a question for you that have done this..
when u cut the stock filler hose, did you use the kit top hose piece to connect to the filler neck, or just shorten the stock hose piece?
fits nice under my tonneau cover.
got to get an electric valve.
a question for you that have done this..
when u cut the stock filler hose, did you use the kit top hose piece to connect to the filler neck, or just shorten the stock hose piece?
#23
I used the kit hose if what you are referring to is the 2" section (see my picture above)
I folded the seam up under the bed, you will know what i am talking about when you look.
This allowed the adapter with the valve to be rotated vertical.
This is he valve I used, controlled my #1 up-fitter
3 8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12 Volt DC 12VDC Viton Seal Water Air Diesel B21V | eBay
Wherever you get your valve, you have to make sure you specify gravity feed. Some of the valves actually need some pressure behind them to open.
I folded the seam up under the bed, you will know what i am talking about when you look.
This allowed the adapter with the valve to be rotated vertical.
This is he valve I used, controlled my #1 up-fitter
3 8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12 Volt DC 12VDC Viton Seal Water Air Diesel B21V | eBay
Wherever you get your valve, you have to make sure you specify gravity feed. Some of the valves actually need some pressure behind them to open.
#24
I used the kit hose if what you are referring to is the 2" section (see my picture above)
I folded the seam up under the bed, you will know what i am talking about when you look.
This allowed the adapter with the valve to be rotated vertical.
This is he valve I used, controlled my #1 up-fitter
3 8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12 Volt DC 12VDC Viton Seal Water Air Diesel B21V | eBay
Wherever you get your valve, you have to make sure you specify gravity feed. Some of the valves actually need some pressure behind them to open.
I folded the seam up under the bed, you will know what i am talking about when you look.
This allowed the adapter with the valve to be rotated vertical.
This is he valve I used, controlled my #1 up-fitter
3 8" Electric Solenoid Valve 12 Volt DC 12VDC Viton Seal Water Air Diesel B21V | eBay
Wherever you get your valve, you have to make sure you specify gravity feed. Some of the valves actually need some pressure behind them to open.
" folded the seam up under the bed"
Sorry, got no idea what this means. My stock rubber filler tube is covered with a nylon mesh. I don't see anything to fold.
My tank has the output in the back left corner, and the mounting tab is right there too. I have the plastic bed liner, so some extra room is gone side to side.
I assume the T gets positioned so one end just about touches the stock metal filler neck. And the stock hose gets cut off so it covers the T stub on the other side. Then the T gets put into the old hose with the original clamp. And the new rubber gets slid down over the T stub on that side. Then secured with the two clamps in the kit. With the fill line barb tilted up on the side.
Gotta make sure I don't drill thru the stock hoses, which seem perfectly in the way, given where my tank drain is.
#25
Look at the 2nd picture in the first post. The seam is on the underside of the bed, goes front to rear. The valve from the kit does not rotate to vertical because of the metal. If you look right above the check valve, you can see where I bent the flap over.
At least on my truck I was limited as to where the "T" went. The filler pipe comes pretty close to the frame rail, so my T is butted up against it.
At least on my truck I was limited as to where the "T" went. The filler pipe comes pretty close to the frame rail, so my T is butted up against it.
#26
Just a thought. Make sure you put your hole where it will allow you to plumb the tank feed. I would think if you put the hole right over the fill pipe you will have no room to run the hose.
#28
Look at the 2nd picture in the first post. The seam is on the underside of the bed, goes front to rear. The valve from the kit does not rotate to vertical because of the metal. If you look right above the check valve, you can see where I bent the flap over.
At least on my truck I was limited as to where the "T" went. The filler pipe comes pretty close to the frame rail, so my T is butted up against it.
At least on my truck I was limited as to where the "T" went. The filler pipe comes pretty close to the frame rail, so my T is butted up against it.
yep, there it is!..
#29
Got the tank installed and connected to the fuel filler neck..
now to run the wire for the upfitter control of the solenoid.
Duane,
where did you pull the wire thru the bed? my piping is on the side..
I drilled a hole in the corner of the bed, and fed the loomed wire up from the bottom, over thru the bed front cross member.
need to put a cable clamp to hold the wire away from the manual valve.
no leaks!.. well, that one hose clamp in the second picture. 1 more turn of the screw.
now to run the wire for the upfitter control of the solenoid.
Duane,
where did you pull the wire thru the bed? my piping is on the side..
I drilled a hole in the corner of the bed, and fed the loomed wire up from the bottom, over thru the bed front cross member.
need to put a cable clamp to hold the wire away from the manual valve.
no leaks!.. well, that one hose clamp in the second picture. 1 more turn of the screw.