I've got a 93 f150 4x4 with a 4.9, m5OD tranny and 3.55 gears. At some point I want to lift the truck and get bigger tyres and honestly I want to keep my TTB because I'd rather go for a desert truck setup than the typical Mud truck/ Mall crawler look that you normally see here in the foothills of SC.

The problem is I've been told that I would need to re-gear my truck to a higher ratio to accommodate bigger tyres. Now, it was recommended that I go to 4.10 gears. Here's where my problem arises. I have no idea nor do i have the tools to swap my gears without a shop. Also swapping gears in the front with the TTB looks to be a real pain since the cover of the front axle is the actual beam.

This leads me with the other option of giving up my Desert truck dream to just go with a SAS and more or less join the crowd. My dad and I swapped the axles under a jeep a few years back and i have a fairly basic knowledge on swapping axles. here's where i have questions. i would still need to re-gear everything anyways so:
1) Did they make Solid front axles for these trucks with 4.10 gears?
2) I really want some kind of positive traction in the rear. The SVT Lightnings (first gen) came with a positive traction rear end with 4.10 gears so could i just bolt that axle under my truck in place of my current rear axle and it work with the front 4.10 axle?

sorry for the book but i have searched for over a week trying to find this info. maybe i just don't know how to navigate well enough.

 

The pumpkin(center section) of the TTB front axle unbolts from the arm and that is all you need for a regear of that axle, you could have yours rebuilt or swap in another that already has the right gear ratio.. 4.10 was an option in these trucks but it wasn't that common.

 

A solid axle swap isn NOT a bolt in affair with these trucks

As for getting a lightning axle, good luck, there were not many of those truck, no less finding one that is getting parted.

Like Conanski, said. 4.10s was an option(a not common one) but still an prion. You can just swap the center chunk for the front axle with no special tools in about 2-3 hours

 

yeah i figured finding a lightning axle would be difficult if not near impossible but certainly they put them under more trucks than just those. so i could maybe find a 4.10 TTB and just swap out that piece. and by piece i mean the actual part that houses the gears.

 

IIRC you can use a D50TTB center chunk in your D44TTB to get 4.10s since they are WAY easier to find

 

so just a question what is the difference between the Dana 50 and the 44? whats bigger or stronger?

 

Ball joints, u-joint, axle busing and leaf springs

 

Another option for a locking rear is a kit. I put a Spartan locker in one of my trucks. Search on here for "locker" and you'll find plenty to read. It makes the truck fun to drive on gravel roads, Dukes of Hazzard style. On pavement the tires chirp a lot. If you have a light foot when turning none of that happens. When you are not turning you can nail it and its locked and you just go (traction permitting). I paid $300 for my Spartan locker on Amazon.com.

 

Bronco graveyard sells rebuilt center sections (pumpkins) for $750. would it be worth the extra cost to get a new one?

 

Not NEW, but REBUILT

 

sorry rebuilt and not just one taken off of a truck and sold. The thing is if i just pull one out of a salvage yard how will i know I'm getting one that isn't garbage or going to break after i put it on?

 

Most salvage yards give a 90 day warranty.

And besides, the front axle has less wear because is has so little use. You can LOOK at the gear set to see if there is anything wrong or loose

 

Inspect the ring and pinion gear for chips in the teeth or wear on the gear surfaces, they should look polished with no pitting. Like Brad said, the front axles don't see the use of the rears and would typically be in good shape. For the rear, if you can't find a good limited slip 4.10:1 entire rear end, you can install some sort of limited slip and 4.10:1 gears in your own axle (may want a shop to do that if after reading the how-to's your not comfortable setting up a gear set--ie shimming for correct pinion depth, shimming for backlash, and putting the correct preload on the pinion bearings). It's not impossible or rocket science, but you don't want to halfazz it.